I just had a look at mine. It is hard to get a good view of where everything goes, so take this with a grain of salt. The pivot bolts are special, shouldered bolts (link to Midwest-Bayless). Under the bolt head goes a belleville spring. The inner diameter of the belleville spring touches the bolt head, the outer diameter touches the hinge. Between the two hinge halves there should be two washers (or possibly a washer and a belleville spring). The smaller of the two faces the headlight, the larger faces away from the headlight.

I'll draw a sketch of this and post later today.
 
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Here is how the hinges go together.
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The thin washer goes to the inside of the pod.
 
THANK YOU! You solved my biggest problem. I was trying to get the Belleville washers (a new term for me) into place with the mounting brackets still on the car. Taking the brackets free from the body is what I couldn't perceive. Sometimes I worry about my intelligence.

The car I'm working on is mildly customized (No: bumpers, marker lights, badging, all gone with a smoothed body where they used to be, two nostrils with a center divider below the front prow, rust free). I'll get it as far as I can then trailer it to Midwest Bayless. Matt also mechanically refurbished a 1982 that I bought brand new and still is a daily driver. Have not spent much time on this forum but intend to become part of this community, really because of people like you and the shared knowledge. I want to add what I know. THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!

I live near Toledo OH and am fortunate to have Midwest Bayless in a day's drive. When I needed my 1982 worked on I posted (here?) and got replies from Guatemala, Australia, etc, telling me about Midwest Bayless. This was before the Bayless part. I am a lucky guy.
 
Adding @Stuartc ‘s picture from his thread showing the fastener and the washers in question.

F390BAEF-2B50-4951-BBB9-1FA9884E4052.jpeg

Removed my headlight buckets today and I was just wanting confirmation that there is supposed to be 3 shims/washers per shoulder bolt holding the bucket to the bracket?
Two of the shims are conical which I have reassembled with the concave surface facing inwards to the buckets brass bush and the larger washer/shim between each bracket and shim on the bucket, is this correct?
I’ve referred to the parts catalogs but it’s not really clear enough to make out.
Just wanted to confirm that this is the correct setup.
Thanks👍
 
Adding @Stuartc ‘s picture from his thread showing the fastener and the washers in question.

View attachment 61745
Removed my headlight buckets today and I was just wanting confirmation that there is supposed to be 3 shims/washers per shoulder bolt holding the bucket to the bracket?
Two of the shims are conical which I have reassembled with the concave surface facing inwards to the buckets brass bush and the larger washer/shim between each bracket and shim on the bucket, is this correct?
I’ve referred to the parts catalogs but it’s not really clear enough to make out.
Just wanted to confirm that this is the correct setup.
Thanks👍
What's the secret to putting the pod back in? Those two, outer washers have nothing to grip them with, and they continually fall into the wells, which is trying my patience. I've tried sticking them on with grease, but that's hit and miss. The bolts can't protrude through enough to hold them, and if too much, can't be fitted into place.
Ideas?
 
which is trying my patience.
Well, yes, of course.... It's a Fiat. :)

OK, seriously, kidding aside.... Tape them in place, with painter's tape. Or find a thin strip of stiff steel, like say the thickest one in your feeler gauge set (if you don't already have a feeler gauge set they're only a few bucks at the FLAPS and you'll need it for valve clearances, gapping points, and some other stuff eventually), use it like an extension of your fingers to hold the washers in place on the infinitesimally irritatingly small protusion of the bolt as the assembly slides into place.
 
What's the secret to putting the pod back in? Those two, outer washers have nothing to grip them with, and they continually fall into the wells, which is trying my patience. I've tried sticking them on with grease, but that's hit and miss. The bolts can't protrude through enough to hold them, and if too much, can't be fitted into place.
Ideas?
Perhaps you can assemble it on the bench like in @Rodger's photo above (and below), then bolt the assembly to the car.

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I know for a fact that it can be done the way your were trying to do it, but I wouldn't try it again...
I did one like that using sticky grease. But man, what a pain, and a two-person job. Your way just seems so logical - probably why the three of us in the shop didn’t think of it, lol.
 
Another 'pivot with washers' that is even more difficult to install in my opinion is the glove box door on 1500 dashes. The pivot with a spring is located in a tight spot against the dash (on 1500 models anyway). Plus it requires a loose nut to be screwed onto the bolt. Getting all the washers, spring, bolt, and nut in there really wears my patience. And I was doing it with the dash off of the car. Next time it will have to be done on the car because the glove box door must be removed in order to attach the dash. Hopefully your 1300 dash will be easier (I've never owned a 1300 so I can't say).
 
What's the secret to putting the pod back in? Those two, outer washers have nothing to grip them with, and they continually fall into the wells, which is trying my patience. I've tried sticking them on with grease, but that's hit and miss. The bolts can't protrude through enough to hold them, and if too much, can't be fitted into place.
Ideas?
Magnets can help. I have a variety of high strength rare earth magnets which help with some assemblies.
 
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