Hello from NC

Do you plan to keep it relatively stock engine wise? Unless you have emissions requirements in your state, I think all on here recommend to remove the air injector ports and distribution pipe and any pipe connected directly to the air pump. If anyone disagrees with that statement please speak up... Bueller...Bueller...Bueller...crickets. All it does is take up hp via the air pump and pump fresh air into the exhaust ports to dilute the harmful gases ppm out the exhaust. There is no benefit to the environment, and if anything it hurts the environment by taking up useful energy to pump pointless air.
 
Do you plan to keep it relatively stock engine wise? Unless you have emissions requirements in your state, I think all on here recommend to remove the air injector ports and distribution pipe and any pipe connected directly to the air pump. If anyone disagrees with that statement please speak up... Bueller...Bueller...Bueller...crickets. All it does is take up hp via the air pump and pump fresh air into the exhaust ports to dilute the harmful gases ppm out the exhaust. There is no benefit to the environment, and if anything it hurts the environment by taking up useful energy to pump pointless air.
Yup, staying stock minus the air injection. Wheels might be the only after market thing on it...
 
Floorpans after work today....
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Needs more massaging then I'll break out the mig...
 
That is a remarkable statement. I tend to agree. Glad you feel that way.

As a reference, what is your basis of comparison for costs?
See my signature. My favs are mid fifties Buick and 60s ford trucks. I've never thought to try a European car. Figured they'd be way more expensive and hard to get parts!
 
So today we got the passenger floor pan finished shaping and tacked in. I think I'm going to leave the driver's side out until I get the clutch and brake master cylinders replaced, hoping the extra room will help. Please ignore the messy welding, I have plenty of grinding wheels.
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Also got the spot closed in where the previous owner did "exploratory surgery" to make sure the front frame rail by the rusted battery box was ok.

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Anyone know where the negative cable attaches?
 
See that plate above the battery box, with the bolt sticking out. That is where the negative cable bolts up.
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Those look remarkably like the ones I bought of the eBay merchant a couple years back - I just need the DS, however the pair was a great price. Looks like a fair amount of work to actually fit them though.
Yea. They arent stamped and I chose to cut the replacement pan rather than take more original out of the car. Overall for the price II think they are worth it.
 
Started working on changing the brake and clutch master cylinders. HOLY COW. I got the steering column out and have to fix some previous repairs to the shroud (see attached pics).
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Does anyone have any tricks for getting the masters out? I have a good set of line wrenches and still cant get the line off the back of the clutch master. I even hit it with a small propane torch. I'm considering building a shield and heating it with a bigger torch.
 
I used a pair of Knipex 'cobra' pliers, with a diamond shaped opening in the jaws; it grabbed 4 sides of the line nut, with controllable squeeze. I was surprised how well it worked; might even get somewhat rounded nuts loose.IMG_1070.JPG
 
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