HELP

Stoney#1

Stoney
Took the 82 X out for a test drive(against my wife's advice I may add:oops:) hate it when she is right!
Fueled up and headed out, ran great! Well for about 6-7 miles out. It just died.
Dash items that indicate working=4 ways,window def, dash lights, red bat/alt light, horn, htr fan lighter. These all indicate working. Head kights, signal lights work. high beam indicator, fuel gauge and wipers will not work.
Engine cranks over, fuel pump has power.
Any suggestions on where to start looking to resolve this
20170621_143244.jpg :confused::(:rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:
It just doesn't look nice on a tow truck
 
don't feel bad about being on a tow truck Mine has been on the tow truck (10+ times in the last year).

Basics to check for, does it have spark, does it have fuel.

and their will be peole with WAY more knowledge answering in soon.
 
don't feel bad about being on a tow truck Mine has been on the tow truck (10+ times in the last year).

Basics to check for, does it have spark, does it have fuel.

and their will be peole with WAY more knowledge answering in soon.
Fuel pump is getting power, will be testing for pressure next
 
Fuel pump is putting out 30+. Have spark, Engine starts and runs for a couple seconds and shuts down. Wipers and gauges still don't work
Originally it would not start, even sputter.
 
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Sorry you're having a problem. Looked like a perfect day... I had a problem that I chased for a couple days with my '86. Your '82 is FI so in addition to the super easy coil gang wire remedy I would suggest checking the aux air valve. Huey just chased a fault that turned out to to be that valve but it would not open so it was like no choke- no start. My problem was an opening in the hose from the valve(located on the head near trans end) to under the hose leading to the plenum. You should check that the hose is intact and securely attached both ends. Mine would start fine cold, then die, then start hard and run very rich until it dies. Since you did get it to run you can rule out big stuff, mechanicals, timing belt etc. You are after a gremlin...
You did not describe all of the symptoms so I am just able to guess but this one is easy and a good one to rule out.
Good luck!
Regards
 
Hmm I am thinking their is two way's the fuel pump run's.

does the pump STAY running?

I remember someone saying operate the air flow flap to see if the pump turn on when it is moved.

(I have not done this on my car so I am only repeating what I think I have read before)
 
Try jiggling the wires to the ignition switch. Some of those should be hot when the ignition is on, so this suggests either an issue with the ignition switch or fuses. Fuses however wouldn't stop the car from operating.

I would look at the ignition side of things, power to the coil in particular. Try jumping a hot wire to the coil to see if it starts and runs, if it does you may have a bad ignition switch or a failure of a wire between the ignition and the coil.

Other areas to look at would be the double relay, is it actually powering the fuel pump and providing power to the injectors?
 
Try jiggling the wires to the ignition switch. Some of those should be hot when the ignition is on, so this suggests either an issue with the ignition switch or fuses. Fuses however wouldn't stop the car from operating.

I would look at the ignition side of things, power to the coil in particular. Try jumping a hot wire to the coil to see if it starts and runs, if it does you may have a bad ignition switch or a failure of a wire between the ignition and the coil.

Other areas to look at would be the double relay, is it actually powering the fuel pump and providing power to the injectors?
Thanks to everyone for suggestions. I have to work this morning, will be trying these suggestions this afternoon
Thanks again

Stoney
 
Start and die can also be ignition components (beyond cap/rotor/wire/plugs) - both the inductive pickup in the distributor and the ign module can fail where they start cold, but heat (electrically) quickly due to poor internal contacts/connections.

Same goes for dual relay used to govern fuel pump
 
+1 on that one! I chased what I thought was fuel problem for days only to find an arm on the baskets in the distributor was bent and touching the others as it passed. Not so bad cold with all new cap, rotor, plugs etc. As things wore in it got much worse until it would not run at all. I think the piece got bent when the engine was turned over without a cap installed and a hold down clip snagged it...
Regards
 
Thanks for all the HELP!
I read if it would start and only run for a few seconds, to block off the cold start supply hose. Did that and eng. would not start. Checked out the A fuse and it was blown. Could only tell with ohm meter since the break was so small you wouldn't see it. Replaced fuse and walah!! It started right up and purred like a kitten. Now the question is, what made it blow in the first place? Should I go from 8 amp to 10amp?
Will clean up fuse contacts and tighten holder. Really don't need another tow charge. :):):D:D Now I have to put everything back together!:rolleyes:
 
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Thanks for all the HELP!
I read if it would start and only run for a few seconds, to block off the cold start supply hose. Did that and eng. would not start. Checked out the A fuse and it was blown. Could only tell with ohm meter since the break was so small you wouldn't see it. Replaced fuse and walah!! It started right up and purred like a kitten. Now the question is, what made it blow in the first place? Should I go from 8 amp to 10amp?
Will clean up fuse contacts and tighten holder. Really don't need another tow charge. :):):D:D Now I have to put everything back together!:rolleyes:

Thanks for posting the solution to the problem. We often miss out on what the fix was, it is always instructive to see what solved it.

This is an example of checking the small things first before going for the big things, fuses are simple but the problem can be hard to find due to the way that they can fail sometimes. Check for the least before assuming the worst.
 
Thanks for posting the solution to the problem. We often miss out on what the fix was, it is always instructive to see what solved it.

This is an example of checking the small things first before going for the big things, fuses are simple but the problem can be hard to find due to the way that they can fail sometimes. Check for the least before assuming the worst.
How true! Have a great day
 
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This is the old style fusebox? What circuits are listed as being on the "A" fuse? That will help isolate the cause so you don't go through it again. Bumping the amp rating of the fuse is not usually a good idea without reason (adding other circuits, etc.,)
 
This is the old style fusebox? What circuits are listed as being on the "A" fuse? That will help isolate the cause so you don't go through it again. Bumping the amp rating of the fuse is not usually a good idea without reason (adding other circuits, etc.,)
Yes, this is old style fuse box. I think the lesson learned here is that if it start and only runs for a few seconds, it will be running only on cold start fuel.
This would explain why it did not try to start while stuck on side of road. Engine was to warm for cold start valve to kick in. By the time we got it home it was cool enough to try and start with the cold start fuel.
Correct me if I am wrong please.

Stoney
 
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