hot starting problem

ghostdancing

ghostdancing

True Classic
when hot starting i have to floor the gas pedal and cranck the motor for a tad more than i like..usually it start just the instant after i release the key (because the coil receives more volts..correct?)

how can i cure\mitigate this?
 
I have the same in my 128. Almost certain in my case it is vapor lock / heat soak.

Fuel can boil when the car is hot, check where your fuel lines run, and if possible make sure you have heat shields on the exhaust manifold and under the carb.
 
there is the original heath shields on the exhaust manifold, under the carb there is only a tray intended to divert any drop of gas away from hot parts..i reckon that on carburetted cars, flooring the pedal to start it's rather normal..but probably i can do something to help the coil volts feeding when cranking with the starter motor... a tricky relais perhaps?
 
I resolved all my hot starting problems by paying particular attention to this little card that ws on the sunvisor when it left the dealer lot.
IMG_1866.jpg
 
NEG said:
GD do you have an electric fuel pump fitted?
Click to expand...
nope..just the mechanic OEM (mounted a new one couple of years ago) pump..that's why starting from cold after several days from the last starting (car sitting unused for 5 - 7 days) requires long crancking..but i know that is normal..it's the hot starting that i want to improve..

@Larry: yes, that's the procedure i adopted..but the fact that the motor kicks in just AFTER i release the key makes me think the coil receives low volts due the starting motor high electricity absorption..
the starter motor itself is a rebuilt one that i purchased on ebay.uk (!) for 30 pounds a couple of years ago, it works well
 
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ghostdancing said:
when hot starting i have to floor the gas pedal and cranck the motor for a tad more than i like..usually it start just the instant after i release the key (because the coil receives more volts..correct?)

how can i cure\mitigate this?
Click to expand...

I had a similar problem once (I'd have to start the car with the clutch when it was hot). I ended up rebuilding the carburettor which fixed it. I'm not sure what the exact cause was but I know that the float level was completely incorrect when I pulled it apart. Might be something to look at...
 
i bought the car 3 years ago and used as daily since then; i had the carburetor rebuilt by a specialist (one of the few survivor here in italy), swapped the ignition for a breakerless unit from a later '80s sohc car, fitted new fuel pump, rebuilt starter..the car now runs well (i also had the new dizzy recurved for less and earlier advance)..only problem is that not -so -prompt hot starting..
 
While vapor lock is a good possibility, I also see your point about it starting just as the key is released. I've seen that on other old cars with marginal electrical systems. When everything gets hot the resistance levels go up. So it could make sense the starter is drawing more current. Also other things may be drawing (requiring) more current - like the coil, the wiring harness, the key switch, the fuse box, etc. Have you done any of the "relay mods" yet? Might be a very good time to add some heavy battery cables, larger power lead to the fuse box, heavier power supply leads to all of the big consumers (starter, ignition, etc) and relays to trigger them. Also check your keyswitch; I'm not sure if it this way on the 128, but the X has too much current going through the switch and damages it, creating more resistance.
 
If it’s starting well cold then it’s unlikely to be marginal electrical system IE: battery, earth strap etc. As that’s when the system is under the most stress. It’s most likely fuel vaporisation and an electric pump will help with that. Run for a few seconds before attempting hot starting it will most likely fix the issue.
 
Also, we are now moving to winter fuel blends that are more volatile than summer fuel so the issue may go away by itself
 
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