Items needed for our 79X

[CnC79X19]

After closing the door on this project for months now I'm in desperate need of garage space. Wife starting to lose patience and says we need to get moving on it. Looking for stuff for my son's 79 X19 1500, a drivers side half shaft and a usable or damaged, rusted repairable brake backing plate for the drivers side as well. We have a few items that we'll trade if that helps sweeten things. A set of 4 small fly cut 1500 Euro pistons from the UK with NIB rings from Midwest Bayless (86.4 I believe?), 74 X's trunk chrome strip as well as chrome strip that runs across the back (unfortunately the two shorter outer side chrome strips are missing), 74 engine bonnet with the right side louver (left gas tank side louver missing), reground camshaft with shaved cambox (came from the 74's 1300 and not sure of the duration). I know people were inquiring about some of these parts in the past and I apologize but took a long break from this build.

Pistons, rings (sold)
Axle not needed

 

[Chris Obert]

Since the 1979 did not originally come with an oil pressure gauge, or the hole in the block for the gauge sender, are you looking for the 1300 gauge sender, or the banjo set up?
I have both.
On the half shaft, do you just need the shaft, or with cv joints?

 

[CnC79X19]

Since the 1979 did not originally come with an oil pressure gauge, or the hole in the block for the gauge sender, are you looking for the 1300 gauge sender, or the banjo set up?
I have both.
On the half shaft, do you just need the shaft, or with cv joints?

Entire shaft with the joints if we can get. I honestly haven't even looked at the dashboard in it, that was my sons job (his car). He said it had a gauge but I'll be checking into it. I do have a sending unit from a 1300 parts car we have but not even sure if it works?

 

[CnC79X19]

Since the 1979 did not originally come with an oil pressure gauge, or the hole in the block for the gauge sender, are you looking for the 1300 gauge sender, or the banjo set up?
I have both.
On the half shaft, do you just need the shaft, or with cv joints?[/QUO
You're correct, no gauge. We're good there. Axle would be great and would love a workable drivers rear backing plate if you've got one in your inventory as well?

 

[Dr.Jeff]

Hi Cliff. Any electronic (vs mechanical) gauge and corresponding sending unit need to match. They operate with variable resistance as the pressure (or temp) changes. So the sensor's signal needs to have the same resistance range as the gauge to give correct readings. Therefore we would need to know exactly what gauge you are looking to pair with for the sender. When I say electronic vs mechanical, I'm referring to a gauge with a wire between the sending unit and the gauge (electronic) vs one with a tube (hose) between them (mechanical).

As to how the oil pressure sender mounts to the block (the head will have another hole for the water temp sender). There will be a hole for a sending unit of some type, I believe 14mm (1.5) thread, which can be used for any oil pressure sending unit...and there are a few options. If the dash also has a "warning light" and you want to keep that function, then you either need two sending units (one for the light and one for the gauge) or one combined sending unit (depending on the type of gauge). The combined unit is usually for aftermarket gauges like VDO, etc. and looks something like this (notice there are two electrical connections, one for the light and one for the gauge):


Or you can attach two sending units to the single hole in the block with a "piggyback" adapter like any of these:

They just need to match the threads on both sending units and the block.

 

[CnC79X19]

Hi Cliff. Any electronic (vs mechanical) gauge and corresponding sending unit need to match. They operate with variable resistance as the pressure (or temp) changes. So the sensor's signal needs to have the same resistance range as the gauge to give correct readings. Therefore we would need to know exactly what gauge you are looking to pair with for the sender. When I say electronic vs mechanical, I'm referring to a gauge with a wire between the sending unit and the gauge (electronic) vs one with a tube (hose) between them (mechanical).

As to how the oil pressure sender mounts to the block (the head will have another hole for the water temp sender). There will be a hole for a sending unit of some type, I believe 14mm (1.5) thread, which can be used for any oil pressure sending unit...and there are a few options. If the dash also has a "warning light" and you want to keep that function, then you either need two sending units (one for the light and one for the gauge) or one combined sending unit (depending on the type of gauge). The combined unit is usually for aftermarket gauges like VDO, etc. and looks something like this (notice there are two electrical connections, one for the light and one for the gauge):
View attachment 13693

Or you can attach two sending units to the single hole in the block with a "piggyback" adapter like any of these:
View attachment 13694 View attachment 13695 View attachment 13696
They just need to match the threads on both sending units and the block.

Thanks Doc

 

[Chris Obert]

I have the left axle on my web store (without the cv joints), and new cv joints (both original and aftermarket).
I also have a stack of old used axles not (yet) inventoried, but I would not want to guaranty the condition of the cv joints... It's the left inner that usually fails first!

I believe I am sold out on the backing plates. Sorry.

For those considering an oil pressure gauge with a 1500 block, Mark Plaia researched the original set up that Fiat used on another Fiat car. It's a banjo set up just like Fiat used on the 850 Spider, but with larger threads. Screws into the existing oil pressure light hole in the 1500 block. Nice thing is it's designed to work with Fiat gauges!
I have the bits, but they are NOT cheap.

 

[Rodger]

a usable or damaged, rusted repairable brake backing plate for the drivers side

Front or rear? I have a set of rears that are nicely powder coated, but they did have a fair amount of rust so there is some pitting and a few small holes here and there.

 

[CnC79X19]

Front or rear? I have a set of rears that are nicely powder coated, but they did have a fair amount of rust so there is some pitting and a few small holes here and there.

Thanks Rodger,
I managed to mig weld one using the better of 3 plates and do a little custom fabrication for the LR and bought a good used one for the RR from Midwest. Thanks anyhow

 

[CnC79X19]

I have the left axle on my web store (without the cv joints), and new cv joints (both original and aftermarket).
I also have a stack of old used axles not (yet) inventoried, but I would not want to guaranty the condition of the cv joints... It's the left inner that usually fails first!

I believe I am sold out on the backing plates. Sorry.

For those considering an oil pressure gauge with a 1500 block, Mark Plaia researched the original set up that Fiat used on another Fiat car. It's a banjo set up just like Fiat used on the 850 Spider, but with larger threads. Screws into the existing oil pressure light hole in the 1500 block. Nice thing is it's designed to work with Fiat gauges!
I have the bits, but they are NOT cheap.

Hey Chris,
On the advice of another member I disassembled both axles and checked them for wear. They actually look pretty good so a new set of boots, clamps and grease repacking is the intended route presently.
Thanks Cliff