Rodger
True Classic
Sure, didn't know if you still needed it since you seem to be pretty far along with your header construction. Here are a couple of photos of the offset. Measured from the arrow to the lowest part of the collector is 6.5".
K20 project off to a good start, volume 2
- Thread starter Rodger
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lookforjoe
True Classic
That's perfect - I can use my try-square & check mine 
This will allow me to weld the collector, which I wasn't going to risk without a sense of that little angle off the collector
This will allow me to weld the collector, which I wasn't going to risk without a sense of that little angle off the collector
Rodger
True Classic
While I was waiting for the header machining, I continued on with the dashboard and controls install. I made a piece to cover the AC/heater slider rheostats from some ABS so that it would hide the rheostats better from view through the heater control slots. The thread on how I made the control unit was back in this old thread. https://xwebforums.com/forum/index.php?threads/air-conditioning-retrofit.25483/ Here it is installed. The photograph doesn't do it justice due to the flash reflection. I also put in the clock, which turned out to be one from a Lancia (I think). It looks the same from the outside, but it has a timer built into it as well as the clock. I recall seeing someone mention it someplace on the forum a while back.
I also substituted one of those USB/voltmeters for the cigarette lighter. Nice to have in this age of mobile devices, plus I deleted the voltmeter on the instrument pod for an oil pressure gauge.
I also substituted one of those USB/voltmeters for the cigarette lighter. Nice to have in this age of mobile devices, plus I deleted the voltmeter on the instrument pod for an oil pressure gauge.
Rodger
True Classic
I finished the installation of the dash with the instrument pod, radio, and vents.
With vents in place, I tried out the blower of the Hurricane unit and it works great. Seems about the same or a little bit quieter than the stock heater fan, but the airflow through the vents is exceptional. The servo controlled defroster flap and the servo controlled heater valve work perfectly.
Next was to fit the console but I needed to modify the side padded areas to clear the Hurricane unit. Here is one of the sides before I modified it.
There are several shallow staples that hold the vinyl and foam pad to the plastic backing. I removed the staples and gently peeled back the vinyl and pad to get access to the plastic backing to cut it. I had to make a horizontal cut along the bottom plastic trim and then a vertical cut in the backing of the padded area. I had worked out the concept and general amount with the old original console from the car. I didn't want to mess this one up as it was a NOS one. The pictures below are of my first cuts. I ended up taking about another half inch off after the first try-in.
The left side needed less cutting, just a curved section to clear the blower housing. I then used vinyl contact cement to glue the vinyl back to the plastic backing. Here is the console installed and the fit to the Hurricane unit.
Here is the completed dash with the console and steering wheel. One more box checked off!
With vents in place, I tried out the blower of the Hurricane unit and it works great. Seems about the same or a little bit quieter than the stock heater fan, but the airflow through the vents is exceptional. The servo controlled defroster flap and the servo controlled heater valve work perfectly.
Next was to fit the console but I needed to modify the side padded areas to clear the Hurricane unit. Here is one of the sides before I modified it.
There are several shallow staples that hold the vinyl and foam pad to the plastic backing. I removed the staples and gently peeled back the vinyl and pad to get access to the plastic backing to cut it. I had to make a horizontal cut along the bottom plastic trim and then a vertical cut in the backing of the padded area. I had worked out the concept and general amount with the old original console from the car. I didn't want to mess this one up as it was a NOS one. The pictures below are of my first cuts. I ended up taking about another half inch off after the first try-in.
The left side needed less cutting, just a curved section to clear the blower housing. I then used vinyl contact cement to glue the vinyl back to the plastic backing. Here is the console installed and the fit to the Hurricane unit.
Here is the completed dash with the console and steering wheel. One more box checked off!
lookforjoe
True Classic
Looking really good, Rodger.
Looking at the last couple posts reminded me to investigate the Hurricane unit again - you used the 2100, which has side exit piping, correct? Still on the fence about adding the compressor, but chances are I will do it. I also couldn’t find the posts where you talked about bending the AC lines , particularly those fit to the frame going to the compressor (filled with sand, I think), and where you bought them (with fittings? Flares added after bending? Can’t recall)
Looking at the last couple posts reminded me to investigate the Hurricane unit again - you used the 2100, which has side exit piping, correct? Still on the fence about adding the compressor, but chances are I will do it. I also couldn’t find the posts where you talked about bending the AC lines , particularly those fit to the frame going to the compressor (filled with sand, I think), and where you bought them (with fittings? Flares added after bending? Can’t recall)
Rodger
True Classic
Hi Hussein. I used the 1100 electronic unit, not the 2100. The 1100 has the pipes out the upper part of the rear of the housing which allows room for the water valve and connections to the water heater pipes in the tunnel. Coming out the side would put all of the plumbing in the passenger footwell.
Evaluating completed projects like the Hurricane install always lead one to consider improvements if I were to do it again. Can't imagine it, but maybe with my '79 someday. The one change I would make is to try and move the whole unit about 1.5-2 inches more to the passenger side as the blower housing does protrude over the gas pedal more than I would like. With the driver's seat installed, I found that I can move my foot from gas to brake pedals with no interference from the housing, but I have size 8 feet. Someone with larger shoes may have an issue. The reason why I mounted it where I did was due to interference from the fuse panel tray. I have studied the possibility of moving it and it looks like it would be possible to shift it to the right by cutting the mounting brackets and rewelding them a bit to the right. The other option is to move it to somewhere else in the car, but then the whole wiring harness will need to be significantly modified.
Another possibility is to eliminate the left side relay panel in the tray and make a cutout in the left side of the tray to clear the Hurricane. Just ideas.
This info was in my the first part of my build thread, about a third of the way down. https://xwebforums.com/forum/index.php?threads/k20-project-off-to-a-good-start.26774/page-10. Yes, I filled them with sand to get the tight bends without crimping the tubes. I bought the tubes from Old Air. They come in different lengths and diameters. As I recall, you can specify whether you want male or female fittings on them. The fittings are already installed so they just need to be bent. The thread specifies the lengths and sizes that I used.
kmead
Old enough to know better
Indeed, coming together very nicely.
How tight is the seal on the Hondata wiring loom coming through the rear panel? Does it have an actual seal or is there an air gap? I would think you would want to make it a sealed opening given the amount of water and hot air that moves around and splashes up the back of the engine.
That tool kit you will never need to use looks new, like brand new.
Has the engine been run yet?
How tight is the seal on the Hondata wiring loom coming through the rear panel? Does it have an actual seal or is there an air gap? I would think you would want to make it a sealed opening given the amount of water and hot air that moves around and splashes up the back of the engine.
That tool kit you will never need to use looks new, like brand new.
Has the engine been run yet?
Rodger
True Classic
The seal is water tight. It is the stock Acura grommet with a rubber boot over it that came off the donor car. The failure point in my mind is the Fiat access panel design. The panel with its attached foil covered insulation is just screwed to the rear fire wall. Any water that is sprayed into the engine bay to clean it (as I used to do often) will just run down between the insulation and the rim around the opening, into the trunk and will accumulate under the false floor, hidden from view. We all know that the trunk floor rusting is common in these cars and that access panel design is a prime culprit in my mind. My '79 floor was gone 10 years after I had purchased it. It would be interesting to do a survey of the early 1300's that did not have the access panel as to whether they had trunk floor rust issues.
The tool kit does look brand new. I found one with a nice case on eBay and had all of the tools were re-plated. I sanded and re-varnished the wood screwdriver handle. The jack was also powder coated and restored with re-plated parts. Yes, I know, I'm too anal.
No the engine has not been started yet. I was waiting to get the header back from the machine shop so that I can start finishing the exhaust. I worked on the dashboard while I was waiting and I would like to get the interior wrapped up, now that I am this close. Just need to do the carpet. Once I get the exhaust done, then it is just a matter of adding fuel and coolant and prayers.
The tool kit does look brand new. I found one with a nice case on eBay and had all of the tools were re-plated. I sanded and re-varnished the wood screwdriver handle. The jack was also powder coated and restored with re-plated parts. Yes, I know, I'm too anal.
No the engine has not been started yet. I was waiting to get the header back from the machine shop so that I can start finishing the exhaust. I worked on the dashboard while I was waiting and I would like to get the interior wrapped up, now that I am this close. Just need to do the carpet. Once I get the exhaust done, then it is just a matter of adding fuel and coolant and prayers.
kmead
Old enough to know better
This is all true. Excellent points. I had considered applying an EPDM seal to the edge and over hanging a seal over the gap and from the cover over the bottom edge.
Clearly a poorly thought out solution on Bertone’s part.
Yes, I know, I'm too anal.
It’s what we like most about you. Well, that and your kind nature.
I doubt you will need any prayers, I would however go for a few fire extinguishers strategically placed
Tom Ginefra
True Classic
Where did you get the leather wrapped steering wheel from?
Whoever did it, did a fabulous job!
Whoever did it, did a fabulous job!
Rodger
True Classic
Yes, I was really happy with it. I sent it to a place called Craft Customs in Texas. You can specify the leather color, stitching color and pattern.
darwoodious
Darin Nelson
My '76 certainly had some rust. I think it was a Southern California car for part of its life (only based on the rear license plate frame). When I cut it out it almost looked like it rusted from the bottom side above the aluminum and insulation there.
Looking forward to hearing your car run. I still need to send mine into the paint shop once I finish up a couple of small body work bits. Keep up the good work Rodger!
Rodger
True Classic
So I finished the carpet and installed the seats and found that my idea of moving the Hurricane unit to the right some more would not work. I was barely able to get the passenger seat in as I forgot how far forward into the foot wells the seats need to go to be able to engage the rails. The Hurricane unit takes up some of the room for the seat bottom cushion and limits how much the seat can be tilted up to slide onto the rails. I had to reach under the front of the seat and hammer on the seat rail with a rubber mallet to slowly inch it back enough where it would slide. Too close for comfort. One thing I had never thought about was turning the Hurricane unit 90 degrees so it is positioned lengthwise over the tunnel. Not sure if that would work out better or not. The main issue is connecting the ducts outlets on the Hurricane to the stock dash vents. Something to consider if anyone out there is going to attempt a similar install.
Rodger
True Classic
I finished up the interior this past week. Added carpet installation to my growing automotive skill set. I started with a MWB plush black carpet kit that I had ordered a few years ago when I started this build. The carpet kit is made from two pieces of carpet that are sewn together down the middle of the tunnel area and another couple of pieces that are sewn to those just in front of the seat rails where the foot wells start. The foot well shapes are created by several cuts that are then sewn together to form the walls of the foot wells. The outside of the whole carpet has a sewn bound seam for a clean edge. There are no cut outs for the seat rails, hand brake, gear shift, or gas pedal, so those need to be done by hand. It has a thick insulating pad glued to the underside which is nice for sound deadening purposes, but makes it a bit more work to fit.
I had started off by putting the center seam along the tunnel and trying to cut the openings for the gear shift and parking brake. At first I tried to cut the carpet from the top, but I found that tends to lead to the cut edges fraying pretty quickly. The center sewn seam quickly came apart as the base of the carpet unraveled right next to the sewn part of the seam. I thought I was screwed as this is right along the top center of the tunnel area. At that point, I decided to separate the driver and passenger sides to make it easier to fit and handle, so I carefully cut the rest of that stitched seam apart before it tore some more.
I figured the best place to start over was to get the openings for the seat rails cut so the carpet would lay flat on the floor. I found that the best way to do this was to lay the carpet upside down on the shop floor then laid the original stock carpet over that, matching up the edge along the door sill and the rear edge that goes against the bulk head. I clamped the edges together so they wouldn't shift and then used a marker to trace the outline of the stock cutouts onto the padding layer. After some trial and error, I found the best way for me was to use a sharp blade to start the cut, but then switch to a small scissors to cut the pad away. It is very dense and does not cut well with a utility blade, but sharp scissors do well. I then marked that outline on the carpet base that is rubberized and used the scissors to snip the base carpet threads along those lines. This seems to reduce the fraying issue that was more off a problem when using a utility blade. Once I had an opening cut in the carpet, I used a small handheld butane micro torch to melt the cut edges and that really helped to stop further fraying. To get the carpet to fit better under the rail edges, I cut about another half inch of the pad all around the cutouts. I also cut out the hole for the bracket that is for the underseat spring, even though I tossed those away years ago.
Now with the two sides down on the floor in the seat areas, I found that there was actually quite a bit of overlap over the tunnel so the torn seam was not going to be an issue. I located where the seat belt mountings were and then marked and cut some small openings for those, again from the bottom. I cut away any of the pad that was going to be over the tunnel as that just seemed to make it too thick there. I carefully marked where the center line of the tunnel was and where the openings for the parking brake and gearshift would be. Again, careful snipping with a scissors along the base of the carpet and then flaming the edges with the torch to prevent fraying.
I had gotten about a quart can of Weldwood Landau Top Adhesive from the upholstery shop that did my seats for me. I had used this to glue the vinyl on the rear bulkhead, targa sail and windshield frame and it is the best. I still had quite a bit left, so I used that glue the carpet to the top of the tunnel, being very careful to butt the edges of the carpet together. I could hardly notice the seam and I think it maybe even came out better than the sewn seam would have.
Then there was more trimming to fit the carpet around the Hurricane unit on the passenger side, doing the cut to slide the carpet over the gas pedal, and the cutouts for the speakers in the kick panels. I used some more of the adhesive to glue the carpet and pad to the wheel well humps. The console holds the inner sides and the speaker grills hold the outer sides.
Here's the finished result with the rubber weatherstripping and door sill plates (from Henk) installed.
Next was to put in the seat belts and the spare tire well cover, then the seats.
Completed interior topped off with some nice floor mats, also from Henk.
I started with a MWB plush black carpet kit that I had ordered a few years ago when I started this build. The carpet kit is made from two pieces of carpet that are sewn together down the middle of the tunnel area and another couple of pieces that are sewn to those just in front of the seat rails where the foot wells start. The foot well shapes are created by several cuts that are then sewn together to form the walls of the foot wells. The outside of the whole carpet has a sewn bound seam for a clean edge. There are no cut outs for the seat rails, hand brake, gear shift, or gas pedal, so those need to be done by hand. It has a thick insulating pad glued to the underside which is nice for sound deadening purposes, but makes it a bit more work to fit.I had started off by putting the center seam along the tunnel and trying to cut the openings for the gear shift and parking brake. At first I tried to cut the carpet from the top, but I found that tends to lead to the cut edges fraying pretty quickly. The center sewn seam quickly came apart as the base of the carpet unraveled right next to the sewn part of the seam. I thought I was screwed as this is right along the top center of the tunnel area. At that point, I decided to separate the driver and passenger sides to make it easier to fit and handle, so I carefully cut the rest of that stitched seam apart before it tore some more.
I figured the best place to start over was to get the openings for the seat rails cut so the carpet would lay flat on the floor. I found that the best way to do this was to lay the carpet upside down on the shop floor then laid the original stock carpet over that, matching up the edge along the door sill and the rear edge that goes against the bulk head. I clamped the edges together so they wouldn't shift and then used a marker to trace the outline of the stock cutouts onto the padding layer. After some trial and error, I found the best way for me was to use a sharp blade to start the cut, but then switch to a small scissors to cut the pad away. It is very dense and does not cut well with a utility blade, but sharp scissors do well. I then marked that outline on the carpet base that is rubberized and used the scissors to snip the base carpet threads along those lines. This seems to reduce the fraying issue that was more off a problem when using a utility blade. Once I had an opening cut in the carpet, I used a small handheld butane micro torch to melt the cut edges and that really helped to stop further fraying. To get the carpet to fit better under the rail edges, I cut about another half inch of the pad all around the cutouts. I also cut out the hole for the bracket that is for the underseat spring, even though I tossed those away years ago.
Now with the two sides down on the floor in the seat areas, I found that there was actually quite a bit of overlap over the tunnel so the torn seam was not going to be an issue. I located where the seat belt mountings were and then marked and cut some small openings for those, again from the bottom. I cut away any of the pad that was going to be over the tunnel as that just seemed to make it too thick there. I carefully marked where the center line of the tunnel was and where the openings for the parking brake and gearshift would be. Again, careful snipping with a scissors along the base of the carpet and then flaming the edges with the torch to prevent fraying.
I had gotten about a quart can of Weldwood Landau Top Adhesive from the upholstery shop that did my seats for me. I had used this to glue the vinyl on the rear bulkhead, targa sail and windshield frame and it is the best. I still had quite a bit left, so I used that glue the carpet to the top of the tunnel, being very careful to butt the edges of the carpet together. I could hardly notice the seam and I think it maybe even came out better than the sewn seam would have.
Then there was more trimming to fit the carpet around the Hurricane unit on the passenger side, doing the cut to slide the carpet over the gas pedal, and the cutouts for the speakers in the kick panels. I used some more of the adhesive to glue the carpet and pad to the wheel well humps. The console holds the inner sides and the speaker grills hold the outer sides.
Here's the finished result with the rubber weatherstripping and door sill plates (from Henk) installed.
Next was to put in the seat belts and the spare tire well cover, then the seats.
Completed interior topped off with some nice floor mats, also from Henk.
kmead
Old enough to know better
Really looks great. Nice write up and great job.
This is going to be an amazing car when you are done.
Did you have the floor mats made or are they a standard item from one of our suppliers?
I am happy both of my X’s have the removable floor tracks. Removing a seat is about a 5 minute job. If anyone goes forward with a similar revamp, drilling out the welds and changing to the four bolts into the floor would be a very good choice compared to the slide in seats of the earlier cars. My other two Fiats have the slide in seats and they are a pain.
This is going to be an amazing car when you are done.
Did you have the floor mats made or are they a standard item from one of our suppliers?
I am happy both of my X’s have the removable floor tracks. Removing a seat is about a 5 minute job. If anyone goes forward with a similar revamp, drilling out the welds and changing to the four bolts into the floor would be a very good choice compared to the slide in seats of the earlier cars. My other two Fiats have the slide in seats and they are a pain.
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Rodger
True Classic
They are a standard item from Henk. You can get the X1/9 logo in different colors.
Having the bolt in seat tracks would have been great. Maybe I’ll have to see about picking up a set.
lookforjoe
True Classic
Nice work! You did a great job with fitting the MWB carpet.
I messed my MWB carpet up from the get-go years ago by not cutting carefully enough around the center console & ended up with a small gap. I think I used a utility knife & had the issue you described. Didn't think to switch to scissors. I couldn't stand looking at it. I did not think to heat/melt the edgs of the cuts to minimize frays - good call there. I bought new carpet set from Henk, along with the insert mats to go in once I'm done with DS floor & interior work. His is two-part (only misgiving I had about using it), which won't matter when it's covered with a center console a' la Clark
I messed my MWB carpet up from the get-go years ago by not cutting carefully enough around the center console & ended up with a small gap. I think I used a utility knife & had the issue you described. Didn't think to switch to scissors. I couldn't stand looking at it. I did not think to heat/melt the edgs of the cuts to minimize frays - good call there. I bought new carpet set from Henk, along with the insert mats to go in once I'm done with DS floor & interior work. His is two-part (only misgiving I had about using it), which won't matter when it's covered with a center console a' la Clark
darwoodious
Darin Nelson
Those seats and steering wheel look amazing! Nice build Rodger.