K20 project off to a good start, volume 2

Finished up a couple of more items. I got the windshield trim glued on. It was an interesting project. I thought I would describe how I did it as I have not seen any details on how to do it other than that it is glued on. Sorry, but I didn't take any photos along the way. The stainless trim is glued on with some type of adhesive (polyurethane?), but there is a thin black plastic trim piece that is wrapped around the outer rim and curls up just over the edge of it, I assume to protect the paint from the metal of the trim. Mine had deteriorated from too many years in the sun, so I just cut it off. I also used a sharp blade to trim off the excess adhesive from the factory install. The adhesive is only in the middle channel and over the inner half of the trim. It does not cover the black plastic trim. It turns out that the inside channel of the trim piece is filled with this adhesive that has a wire embedded in it. I am not sure how this trim is installed at the factory, but my thought is that the trim comes with the adhesive already in/on it and then they connect current to the wire to heat up the adhesive, then press the trim on.

The two trim sides are firmly connected by the wire/adhesive combination, so I first cut that apart so I could clean and polish the two trim halves and the two middle clips. I also had to cut out some of this adhesive in one area to fix a dent in the trim. I pounded it out with a screwdriver, then filed the now raised area, sanded with 400-800-1000-2000 paper, then polished. Can't tell it was there. :) To simulate the black plastic trim, I got some black 1/4" pin striping tape and applied that in the same position. I masked off the paint surrounding the windshield, then tried on the two trim pieces with the clips to get the fit correct, then used duct tape across the clips to hold the two sides together in the right position. Then I flipped the whole trim over onto a blanket on the garage floor and applied a thick bead of the same 3M polyurethane I used to install the windshield, along the inner 2/3rds portion of the trim. I positioned the trim carefully on the windshield and pressed it down with the excess oozing out onto the windshield. I didn't want the adhesive to come out onto the outer side and that worked out pretty well as the inner edge of the trim is a little off the windshield with the outer edge touching it. As you press it down, the adhesive naturally flows to the inside edge. I then used a 90 degree plastic tool to clean the excess adhesive off to create a nice clean bead. Once it set for 24 hours, I used a sharp blade to shave the set adhesive off the windshield.
Windshield trim.JPG


I also got the engine compartment lid on. I was relieved that there was still plenty of clearance over the AC compressor. :)
Engine lid install 01.JPG

Engine lid install 02.JPG
 
Rodger, that is looking great. It is almost too clean, are you going to be afraid to drive it now? ;)
 
Thanks for sharing this. I have been thinking about this particular trim ever since In removed it to pull my windshield out. I managed not to mangle the stainless, but the plastic part had pretty much crumbled and I was thinking of how to recreate it so I could re use the trim.
When you have a moment would you mind to post a close up photo so I can be sure of the placement of the pinstripe tape?
 
Thanks for sharing this. I have been thinking about this particular trim ever since In removed it to pull my windshield out. I managed not to mangle the stainless, but the plastic part had pretty much crumbled and I was thinking of how to recreate it so I could re use the trim.
When you have a moment would you mind to post a close up photo so I can be sure of the placement of the pinstripe tape?
I didn't take any photos as I was doing this car, but I had also pulled the trim from my '79 and the plastic part took quite a beating. Here is a photo of the plastic trim.
IMG_0004.JPG


Here are a couple of shots of the pinstripe tape on the stainless trim to show basically how I positioned it. Sorry it is bit out of focus, but hopefully you get the idea.
IMG_0005.JPG
IMG_0006.JPG
 
I have been putting off tackling the exhaust as I wanted to wait until I had a good day with no interruptions to work on it. Plus, I was a little afraid that I would have forgotten what I had practiced and would screw it up. :( Any, today was the day! Here are some of the components I had bought a while ago for it. I have already welded the other flange for the "V" clamp onto the 45 degree tube.
Exhaust assembly 01.JPG

Once I got my feet wet again, the welding went pretty well. I was pretty happy with how it has turned out so far. Here is the catalytic converter, elbow, and the flex coupling together.
Exhaust assembly 05.JPG

Adding the muffler was a little tricky because of the angles, but it was a probably a piece of cake compared to Hussein's assembly of his intake manifold.
Exhaust assembly 06.JPG

Here is the 45 degree tube connected to the "V" clamp.
Exhaust assembly 04.JPG

Here is the muffler/cat section positioned on a jack. Lines up pretty well as I had hoped. Eventually, I will cut the 45 degree tube shorter and connect a 90 degree section from that to the flex coupling.
Exhaust assembly 07.JPG

First, I want to add the hanger to the muffler side of the exhaust, then fabricate the tail pipe section connected to the muffler.
Exhaust assembly 09.JPG
 
I have been putting off tackling the exhaust as I wanted to wait until I had a good day with no interruptions to work on it. Plus, I was a little afraid that I would have forgotten what I had practiced and would screw it up. :( Any, today was the day! Here are some of the components I had bought a while ago for it. I have already welded the other flange for the "V" clamp onto the 45 degree tube.
View attachment 20160
Once I got my feet wet again, the welding went pretty well. I was pretty happy with how it has turned out so far. Here is the catalytic converter, elbow, and the flex coupling together.
View attachment 20162
Adding the muffler was a little tricky because of the angles, but it was a probably a piece of cake compared to Hussein's assembly of his intake manifold.
View attachment 20163
Here is the 45 degree tube connected to the "V" clamp.
View attachment 20161
Here is the muffler/cat section positioned on a jack. Lines up pretty well as I had hoped. Eventually, I will cut the 45 degree tube shorter and connect a 90 degree section from that to the flex coupling.
View attachment 20164
First, I want to add the hanger to the muffler side of the exhaust, then fabricate the tail pipe section connected to the muffler.
View attachment 20165


Nice looking muffler bay, but... you are going to line it with sheet aluminum or Stainless Steel? There is a lot of heat back there when the engine has been run hard then you stop for a red light. The material there will burn and a fire will result.

TonyK.

Grimsby Ontario Canada
 
Stainless would be better, it transmits less heat than does aluminum which is a very good conductor of heat.

Stainless sheet with an air gap would make a very good thermal break. Some rigid mineral wool insulation would reduce the heat soak across the gap.

One could use a faced mineral wool and omit the stainless:

https://www.grainger.com/product/19...kwcid=AL!2966!3!216788409968!!!g!296303633664!

Mineral wool doesn’t hold water (its hydrophobic) and won’t burn until way above 1200.
 
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I didn't take any photos as I was doing this car, but I had also pulled the trim from my '79 and the plastic part took quite a beating. Here is a photo of the plastic trim.
View attachment 20157

Here are a couple of shots of the pinstripe tape on the stainless trim to show basically how I positioned it. Sorry it is bit out of focus, but hopefully you get the idea.
View attachment 20158 View attachment 20159
Thank you Rodger, that helps me a lot. The pinstripe tape seems to be a great solution to recreate the original appearance.
 
I used the closed-cell dynamat, with the aluminum shields on top.

Roger, I do have a concern for you - that style flex coupler is less than ideal. Over time, the inner liner will expand & choke the ID. I made the mistake of using one years ago on a DP I made, and when I removed it it was literally half the ID.

There are rigid liner versions, which are really the only way to go.
 
Looks good Rodger. You're 60% or more there. Welds look good (you did back-purge them, right - that's SS)
I didn’t for just tacking the parts together but after that, I did. When I did the flange, it is too close to the end to purge, but I have finally figured out the best amps for the welds so I got very little sugaring on the inside of that joint. Easily ground off.
 
Nice looking muffler bay, but... you are going to line it with sheet aluminum or Stainless Steel? There is a lot of heat back there when the engine has been run hard then you stop for a red light. The material there will burn and a fire will result.

TonyK.

Grimsby Ontario Canada
Yes, I am definitely going to line it. I have some high temp insulation with a corrugated stainless on it that I plan to use. I do have a little concern about leaving the Rhino-liner under it that the body shop had sprayed there. There are reports on the internet about it being flammable. It’s a pain to remove though.
 
Yes, I am definitely going to line it. I have some high temp insulation with a corrugated stainless on it that I plan to use. I do have a little concern about leaving the Rhino-liner under it that the body shop had sprayed there. There are reports on the internet about it being flammable. It’s a pain to remove though.
I lined my Exhaust bay with sheet Stainless Steel, see picture.

TonyK.

Grimsby Ontario.

IMG_0944.JPG
IMG_0946.JPG
 
Just because I am curious, is this panel in the exhaust area on my 78 stock?
IM003089.JPG
 
I used the closed-cell dynamat, with the aluminum shields on top.

Roger, I do have a concern for you - that style flex coupler is less than ideal. Over time, the inner liner will expand & choke the ID. I made the mistake of using one years ago on a DP I made, and when I removed it it was literally half the ID.

There are rigid liner versions, which are really the only way to go.
Hmm, that is interesting. I looked at my coupler and cannot see how it would do that unless the whole thing collapsed down quite a bit. Since it is already welded on, I will just go with it, but will keep an eye on it. Thanks.
 
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