K20 project off to a good start, volume 2

I used this product for the exhaust bay insulation.
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The 18"x48" size was enough to cover the trunk floor area and the sides in one piece. I flattened out the original aluminum shields as a template and cut out the piece. It cuts with a heavy duty pair of scissors or a utility knife.
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Here it is installed. It is not as stiff as the aluminum shields so I fastened it to the trunk floor with some small sheet metal screws and fender washers.
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Here's the exhaust system hung.
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Lower valence in place.
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Then the grill installed, off the jack stands and rolled out into the driveway for the first time in four years! I still need to finish up the Euro bumper install but will probably try to fire it first. Added the coolant so just need to go get some premium gas.
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I used this product for the exhaust bay insulation.
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The 18"x48" size was enough to cover the trunk floor area and the sides in one piece. I flattened out the original aluminum shields as a template and cut out the piece. It cuts with a heavy duty pair of scissors or a utility knife.
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Here it is installed. It is not as stiff as the aluminum shields so I fastened it to the trunk floor with some small sheet metal screws and fender washers.
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Here's the exhaust system hung.
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Lower valence in place.
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Then the grill installed, off the jack stands and rolled out into the driveway for the first time in four years! I still need to finish up the Euro bumper install but will probably try to fire it first. Added the coolant so just need to go get some premium gas.
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Needless to say, I think everyone is dying to see and hear the results of your first start. Can't wait to see you breathe life into this absolute "work of art".
 
I took it for a short drive up my driveway and back. I have a long driveway. Got it into second gear. I definitely need to work on the alignment some more and bleed the brakes again. The gas gauge is not working and the temp gauge does not seem to work at this point but there is hot water going to the radiator and the heater. Small things to sort out but I figured there would be a few glitches.
 
Love it Rodger - and to be honest VERY jealous. You've spent a LOT LOT LOT of work on this dream of yours and we all knew it would get to this point some day. So a very well deserved congratulations is in order I think.

All the best, -Darin
 
Congratulations!!! You have to expect there will be kinks to iron out after such substantial work. That just gives you the opportunity to look everything over with several heat cycles to check for any fluid leaks, etc., whilst you’re fault tracing the obvious glitches.

Is 50psi the rail fuel pressure they specify? I would expect regulated pressure (with vacuum disconnected) to be closer to 3 bar at idle.
 
Love it Rodger - and to be honest VERY jealous. You've spent a LOT LOT LOT of work on this dream of yours and we all knew it would get to this point some day. So a very well deserved congratulations is in order I think.

All the best, -Darin
Thanks! It is a good feeling to finally get to this point. It seemed like it was taking forever to finish it. It’s not done yet, but I can see the finish line now. You’ll get yours done someday, too and it will be awesome. Thanks for your help and encouragement.
 
Congrats! Sounds great.

That must be a long driveway to get into second gear.

The string method of aligning would work well here. Do you have access to someone with a 4 post lift? It would be the best way to do this on such a low car so you don’t have to jack it up and down multiple times.

Just an incredible job getting to this point. I am extremely happy for you.

Karl
 
Nice work! It's been awhile from that ride in my car wondering if this was the right thing to do, finding the engine, etc. The journey has paid off with new mechanical skills and car that looks awesome and will go as fast as it looks. I do hope you will get it tuned by a professional on a dyno, as they are very good at making the engine work as perfect as possible in whatever car and setup it's dropped into. Very happy for you!
 
The string method of aligning would work well here. Do you have access to someone with a 4 post lift? It would be the best way to do this on such a low car so you don’t have to jack it up and down multiple times.
Unfortunately, I don't know anyone with a lift. I have the alignment plates that I got from Summit Racing but haven't used them on this build yet as I was waiting to get it near to normal curb weight before I embarked on that. I did use them on my '79 and they work but there is a lot of jacking up and down to make the adjustments. I will get it as close as I can, then eventually take it to an alignment shop that I have used before.
 
Nice work! It's been awhile from that ride in my car wondering if this was the right thing to do, finding the engine, etc. The journey has paid off with new mechanical skills and car that looks awesome and will go as fast as it looks. I do hope you will get it tuned by a professional on a dyno, as they are very good at making the engine work as perfect as possible in whatever car and setup it's dropped into. Very happy for you!
Thanks! You were an invaluable resource and inspiration on this build. You found the drivetrain for me, let me look at your MWB build several times, and helped to put the engine in, along with Darwoodius. So yes, it was the right thing to do. :) Once it is fully road worthy, I plan to make an appointment with the Speed Factory as the K-Pro software is all Greek to me at this point.
 
I'm diggin that thermal shield... 140.00 plus shipping? I had to replaced and modify my trunk area when I did my swap. I used 1.00" square tubing and cross braced the opening before laying/welding in the new trunk pan. My intention was to use a thermal insulation in the square pockets between the tubes underneath and then pop rivet an aluminum cover sheet to sandwich the material. I had planned in using this stuff from Grainger.


https://www.grainger.com/product/54...!?cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA?campaignid=175663197
 
I'm diggin that thermal shield... 140.00 plus shipping? I had to replaced and modify my trunk area when I did my swap. I used 1.00" square tubing and cross braced the opening before laying/welding in the new trunk pan. My intention was to use a thermal insulation in the square pockets between the tubes underneath and then pop rivet an aluminum cover sheet to sandwich the material. I had planned in using this stuff from Grainger.


https://www.grainger.com/product/54...!?cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA?campaignid=175663197
That looks like the same ceramic fiber material that my barrier was lined with. Mine was 1/2" thick and glued to the corrugated metal. You will certainly get a lot more of the insulation material for a lot less money buying it from Grainger, if all you need is the insulation.
 
I'm even more jealous of Roger now, than I was before. I just watched the video again and it occurred to me that I can't remember the last time my wife asked me "If I wanted to hit it again, now?"
:) Haha! She was doing the videoing and that was the first time she had used that camera. I had hoped to get the actual start up on the video, but she was a little slow on the button. I'll do another video once I go for a longer test drive.
 
Unfortunately, I don't know anyone with a lift. I have the alignment plates that I got from Summit Racing but haven't used them on this build yet as I was waiting to get it near to normal curb weight before I embarked on that. I did use them on my '79 and they work but there is a lot of jacking up and down to make the adjustments.

With camber bolts and using string and a smart camber alignment tool, I can roll each wheel onto two sheets of waxed paper to make simple slip plates. With the correct wrenches, and squeezing my body under the car in the right places, I can adjust the camber and toe without jacking up the car. I need to turn the front wheels to get at the toe adjustment, I have the center position marked. Rear toe is easy. This is with normal ride height. Lower and I would have to have 2x8's under each wheel. I found that if I jack it up I need to roll it 10 feet or so and bounce on my stiff shocks to settle the suspension into normal position.

It took a while to find the right wrenches an right positioning to do this. I am working by feel to do much of the wrenching.

The hub stands that Bernice has made are really the way to go. Some day...
 
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