Rodger
True Classic
Like the other engine parts I bought, I sourced the exact OEM ties from acurapartsnow.com.Did you find a source for the factory style clip-in cable harness ties, or did you use somethiong else to secure them?
I am just going on the info that I got off of the karcepts.com website that makes the delete plate for the IACV. "Contrary to what some assume, the K-Series engines run surprisingly well with the elimination of the stock idle air control valve. We've utilized this block-off on many customer vehicles; all with positive feedback, and no negative effects pertaining to drivability or stalling. The only requirement for utilizing the Karcepts Idle Air Control Valve Block-Off Plate is that you will need Hondata K-pro (or an equivalent programmable ECU) to disable stock function of the OEM idle air control valve." Here is the link to the entire page. http://www.karcepts.com/shop/product.php?id_product=40. I have also noted that the aftermarket throttle body that I bought from Hybrid Racing also comes with a delete plug to leave off the IACV. I really can't comment on your question about the power drop issue at this point, but it doesn't seem to be an issue that I have seen mentioned.If there is no IAC, does one alter the settings in software to maintain a base idle without it? What happens when load is placed one the systems (AC on, etc.,) that causes the typical voltage drop & idle surge on a EFI car? The only away around that that I can see is to run all new constant & switched power directly from the battery to the engine management, as everything I've done still relies on the factory wiring in terms of system feeds, and I still can get an idle drop when a large current is applied elsewhere (even with the sense feed GM alternator, which maintains 14v). Since I have a working IAC, it doesn't matter.
You have the tools and talent to modify the plenum, I do not. My suggestion is to just make sure that when you are refining the firewall modifications that you take into account the proximity of the intake tube. I don't have a great photo of the fitting, this is the best I could find.With the manifold / firewall interference, that area where it is SO close cannot be recessed due to sheet metal proximity to the gas tank, correct? I'm thinking reworking the plenum so the TB flange is offset differently if this is the case.
You can see where the cut edge is just to the left of the upper nut on the manifold flange. What I ran into was that this became a 90 degree welded joint with the addition of the access box. I had already put the firewall mat on and installed the engine before I started on the intake tube. If I had realized the issue at this point, I would have cut back the firewall more in that area to "bevel" the firewall to give me better access for the nut or bolt. I would also suggest creating a concavity in the area that protrudes right behind the smaller hose in the above photo. The gas tank is behind there, but I think there is still room to shape a concavity (read big hammer) for the intake tube to have more clearance as it goes through this area. The other thing is to create a sharper curve in the intake tube as it comes off the manifold to get it further away from the firewall over the gas tank. My limitation to doing that was that I had to accommodate for the 180 degree hose coming off of the K-Tuned upper coolant housing that I used. MWB created a custom coolant housing that routed the coolant immediately back under the intake manifold so there is more room to bring the intake tube out quicker and still have room for the TB. That sounds like what you are planning to do with the Volvo part. These issues will be easier to visualize and plan for once you do the engine try-in.
I am sure it probably does have a small effect, but I wouldn't think it is remotely significant. It may even be a positive effect as the tube may create a ram effect that improves airflow due to the increased length of the smooth runner but I am not an automotive engineer. Matt or Braydon could possibly comment on this as they have done more of these swaps than anyone.I'm having trouble seeing how moving the TB that far away from the plenum cannot have some influence on air flow dynamics (or whatever the correct term is)
As much as I love driving my X on a beautiful day with the top down, I have been stuck in Seattle traffic in my '79 on a 95 degree day and it was brutal. As I get older, I tolerate the heat much less. As we all know, the whole planet is getting warmer and it is happening fast. My goal here is to build a fun car that I can drive daily in comfort, not just take it to car shows, so AC was a must. My engine had the AC compressor, but there is no way to keep it in the stock location in an X swap, so the compressor has to go on top. You have major advantage in that you already have an AC equipped car so you just have to connect to that. I had to create an entire AC system from scratch, not something I would recommend to anyone if they can source an AC equipped car to start with or as a parts donor.I'm still vacillating on whether to keep AC or not - I love how clean your bay looks here (I've been saving some of your pics for reference, I hope that is OK) - however I see how much work went into making custom lines to keep it so tidy. My engine didn't have a compressor on it, so I'd alos need to buy one, make new lines, etc., so I may end up just removing mine.
You are welcome to copy any of the photos I post. I am just happy that someone has gotten some use out of the time it takes to create the posts and build the thread. That's what I love about this forum and the folks on it.