K20 project off to a good start, volume 2

Did you find a source for the factory style clip-in cable harness ties, or did you use somethiong else to secure them?
Like the other engine parts I bought, I sourced the exact OEM ties from acurapartsnow.com.

If there is no IAC, does one alter the settings in software to maintain a base idle without it? What happens when load is placed one the systems (AC on, etc.,) that causes the typical voltage drop & idle surge on a EFI car? The only away around that that I can see is to run all new constant & switched power directly from the battery to the engine management, as everything I've done still relies on the factory wiring in terms of system feeds, and I still can get an idle drop when a large current is applied elsewhere (even with the sense feed GM alternator, which maintains 14v). Since I have a working IAC, it doesn't matter.
I am just going on the info that I got off of the karcepts.com website that makes the delete plate for the IACV. "Contrary to what some assume, the K-Series engines run surprisingly well with the elimination of the stock idle air control valve. We've utilized this block-off on many customer vehicles; all with positive feedback, and no negative effects pertaining to drivability or stalling. The only requirement for utilizing the Karcepts Idle Air Control Valve Block-Off Plate is that you will need Hondata K-pro (or an equivalent programmable ECU) to disable stock function of the OEM idle air control valve." Here is the link to the entire page. http://www.karcepts.com/shop/product.php?id_product=40. I have also noted that the aftermarket throttle body that I bought from Hybrid Racing also comes with a delete plug to leave off the IACV. I really can't comment on your question about the power drop issue at this point, but it doesn't seem to be an issue that I have seen mentioned.

With the manifold / firewall interference, that area where it is SO close cannot be recessed due to sheet metal proximity to the gas tank, correct? I'm thinking reworking the plenum so the TB flange is offset differently if this is the case.
You have the tools and talent to modify the plenum, I do not. My suggestion is to just make sure that when you are refining the firewall modifications that you take into account the proximity of the intake tube. I don't have a great photo of the fitting, this is the best I could find.
IMG_1067 crop.JPG

You can see where the cut edge is just to the left of the upper nut on the manifold flange. What I ran into was that this became a 90 degree welded joint with the addition of the access box. I had already put the firewall mat on and installed the engine before I started on the intake tube. If I had realized the issue at this point, I would have cut back the firewall more in that area to "bevel" the firewall to give me better access for the nut or bolt. I would also suggest creating a concavity in the area that protrudes right behind the smaller hose in the above photo. The gas tank is behind there, but I think there is still room to shape a concavity (read big hammer) for the intake tube to have more clearance as it goes through this area. The other thing is to create a sharper curve in the intake tube as it comes off the manifold to get it further away from the firewall over the gas tank. My limitation to doing that was that I had to accommodate for the 180 degree hose coming off of the K-Tuned upper coolant housing that I used. MWB created a custom coolant housing that routed the coolant immediately back under the intake manifold so there is more room to bring the intake tube out quicker and still have room for the TB. That sounds like what you are planning to do with the Volvo part. These issues will be easier to visualize and plan for once you do the engine try-in.

I'm having trouble seeing how moving the TB that far away from the plenum cannot have some influence on air flow dynamics (or whatever the correct term is)
I am sure it probably does have a small effect, but I wouldn't think it is remotely significant. It may even be a positive effect as the tube may create a ram effect that improves airflow due to the increased length of the smooth runner but I am not an automotive engineer. Matt or Braydon could possibly comment on this as they have done more of these swaps than anyone.

I'm still vacillating on whether to keep AC or not - I love how clean your bay looks here (I've been saving some of your pics for reference, I hope that is OK) - however I see how much work went into making custom lines to keep it so tidy. My engine didn't have a compressor on it, so I'd alos need to buy one, make new lines, etc., so I may end up just removing mine.
As much as I love driving my X on a beautiful day with the top down, I have been stuck in Seattle traffic in my '79 on a 95 degree day and it was brutal. As I get older, I tolerate the heat much less. As we all know, the whole planet is getting warmer and it is happening fast. My goal here is to build a fun car that I can drive daily in comfort, not just take it to car shows, so AC was a must. My engine had the AC compressor, but there is no way to keep it in the stock location in an X swap, so the compressor has to go on top. You have major advantage in that you already have an AC equipped car so you just have to connect to that. I had to create an entire AC system from scratch, not something I would recommend to anyone if they can source an AC equipped car to start with or as a parts donor.

You are welcome to copy any of the photos I post. I am just happy that someone has gotten some use out of the time it takes to create the posts and build the thread. That's what I love about this forum and the folks on it. :)
 
What I ran into was that this became a 90 degree welded joint with the addition of the access box. I had already put the firewall mat on and installed the engine before I started on the intake tube. If I had realized the issue at this point, I would have cut back the firewall more in that area to "bevel" the firewall to give me better access for the nut or bolt. I would also suggest creating a concavity in the area that protrudes right behind the smaller hose in the above photo. The gas tank is behind there, but I think there is still room to shape a concavity (read big hammer) for the intake tube to have more clearance as it goes through this area.

I did what Rodger is talking about and verified fuel tank fits no problem there.
WP_20160624_11_43_47_Rich.jpg

Quick work with the angle grinder then fab up a piece of sheetmetal to fit.

IMG_20160625_204936.jpg


I think I would've tried to take even a bit more off but it should be OK.
 
I have to ask, why not just cut all of the wall off? Yes, you would have to move the fuel tank to the frunk, but is that so bad?
IMG_20160625_204936_LI.jpg
 
I have to ask, why not just cut all of the wall off? Yes, you would have to move the fuel tank to the frunk, but is that so bad?
View attachment 15218
I like my frunk empty as I plan to take trips in this car so need the luggage space. If it was a track car only, then that would make sense. Then you can just leave the TB where it is, of course. And plenty of room for a turbo.
 
I was pondering the storage puzzle too when I saw an Audi R8 with an aerodynamic Thule roof cargo box mounted. It extended past the back of the roofline and was supported by a (probably) custom made support mounted to the engine lid. Looked like a pretty cool way to load up for a long road trip.
 
I like my frunk empty as I plan to take trips in this car so need the luggage space. If it was a track car only, then that would make sense. Then you can just leave the TB where it is, of course. And plenty of room for a turbo.
Understandable, there really is a lot of room in the frunk.
 
Hey Rodger - two questions I keep forgetting to ask -

1) what happens with the stock handbrake pivot mechanism? I see the cover has to go away, but what happens in the end?

2) Oxygen sensor. What does the connector look like - I didn't see anything in my harness that compares to the Bosch connector I'm familiar with. What did you buy / use for that?

3) What muffler are you considering / already have? MWB suggests Borla/Magnaflow 2.5" I/O, but doesn't give any reference items to review.
 
1) what happens with the stock handbrake pivot mechanism? I see the cover has to go away, but what happens in the end?
The cover stays, otherwise no parking brakes. When you do the try-in of the subframe, make sure the handbrake cover is installed. Mine was not and so there was some interference with the subframe when we were installing the engine. I ended up having to grind about 2-3 mm off of the subframe to clear it. I was a little bummed as I had powder coated the subframe. :( A little rattle can fix.
2) Oxygen sensor. What does the connector look like - I didn't see anything in my harness that compares to the Bosch connector I'm familiar with. What did you buy / use for that?
There were two O2 sensors on the RSX. You just need the first one. I just kept the one off the car I bought. Here is the sensor and the connector from the wiring harness.
IMG_3184.JPG
IMG_3185.JPG

3) What muffler are you considering / already have? MWB suggests Borla/Magnaflow 2.5" I/O, but doesn't give any reference items to review.
I went with the Magnaflow 11236, 2.5" offset in/out. Here is a photo of my parts that just came in. Hopefully, I have everything I need. I already made a cut in the 180.
IMG_3183.JPG

I also went with a Magnaflow cat (53956). The rest of the bends and parts are all Vibrant Performance except for the exhaust hangers.
1490 V-band clamp
13051 90 bend 2.5" radius (x2)
13040 90 bend 3.5" radius
2684 180 bend 2.5" radius
13100 45 bend
62804 Braided flex connector
1194A 02 bung

The exhaust hangers were from Stainless Works (UH2-5W). I bought the whole bunch from Summit Racing.
 
I guess I misread the MWB guide when they referenced the handbrake cover.

I'll have to pickup an O2 - with that pic, I see where it attached in my harness, the wires were cut on the O2 side.

Thanks for the detailed list Rodger! What did you base the exhaust layout/ design on? I can't find any reference examples online.
 
You're right, there is not much out there. I got some ideas from this thread https://xwebforums.com/forum/index.php?threads/anyone-have-some-k20-swap-exhaust-photos.35010/. Probably the best inspiration was from jlmurphy21 and his photos that Darin posted here. https://xwebforums.com/forum/index.php?threads/k20-swap-australia.34778/#post-298155. Here is the best one of those.
image2.jpg

He made his own 4 into 2 into 1 header instead of using the off the shelf shorty. That extends it a lot further into the space than I would like.

I was also little concerned about how close the catalytic converter is to the trunk floor so I wanted to see if I could replicate (sort of) the stock Fiat layout with the cat on the bottom and in the under car airflow. I have the layout kind of designed in my mind and have just started on jigsawing the pieces. I realized that this would be a lot easier if I had a welder and could at least tack the parts together as I fit it. We'll see. I'll post photos once I am a little further along.
 
You're right, there is not much out there. I got some ideas from this thread https://xwebforums.com/forum/index.php?threads/anyone-have-some-k20-swap-exhaust-photos.35010/. Probably the best inspiration was from jlmurphy21 and his photos that Darin posted here. https://xwebforums.com/forum/index.php?threads/k20-swap-australia.34778/#post-298155. Here is the best one of those.
View attachment 15266
He made his own 4 into 2 into 1 header instead of using the off the shelf shorty. That extends it a lot further into the space than I would like.

I was also little concerned about how close the catalytic converter is to the trunk floor so I wanted to see if I could replicate (sort of) the stock Fiat layout with the cat on the bottom and in the under car airflow. I have the layout kind of designed in my mind and have just started on jigsawing the pieces. I realized that this would be a lot easier if I had a welder and could at least tack the parts together as I fit it. We'll see. I'll post photos once I am a little further along.

A quick rough of what you said.

This shows the two downpipes coming from the engine area into the muffler compartment, both turning down and then turning the 90° into the catalytic converter.

From the catalytic converter it turns 90 back and upward, a short straight then 90 and a short straight into the muffler (the muffler is tipped about 30°) using the inlet arranged in the far position then out to the tail pipe.

Sorry for the rough nature of the sketch.

44FF25F7-40C9-4305-A792-18FEB933D4EF.png
 
You are quite the talent with your graphics. :) That is pretty much my planned design except for the header. Making a custom header instead of using an off the shelf one would allow the entrance into the exhaust bay to be more to the right of the opening. This gives better clearance of the muffler and the 180 on the left side to connect it to the hanger like the stock Fiat system. But that is a lot more welding and fitting to get the runners equal.
 
Those definitely help. I would never mount an O2 like that - it will collect moisture & fail prematurely. O2 always needs to be at least a few degrees over the horizontal plane.
 
I had modified the Honda shift cable connection points on the transmission to accept the 10-32 Heim joints that come on the shift cables with the MWB K20 swap kit. There are also extensions that needed to be added to the shift cable bracket on the transmission. These were welded on before I had them powdercoated.

Rodger, I forgot to ask what you found to be the correct distance offset for the modified cable mount. Is that around 2", can't tell for sure from pics.

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