kmead
Old enough to know better
Hussein’s approach effectively does what the two piece flap solution does, moving water from the window down to the bottom of the door. It is difficult to do it that way.
I made a similar solution to the factory approach that NEG shows. Mine goes on the outside of the door at the top to 2/3rds/3/4 of the way down where it then goes into the door ending an inch or so from the bottom of the door. A second sheet is then applied over the top of the first sheet where it goes into the door cavity and sealed to the outside of the door and the face of the first sheet. The first sheet is awkward at the front of the door due to the way the cut out is and the equipment behind there.
The plastic used is important but not super critical. I have a roll of 8mil UV stabilized black sheet. It is incredibly strong/tough and any thing intended to go through it needs a hole cut (an X for the through hole) I wouldn’t use this if I were you. Don’t use a trash bag as many of them have biodegradable materials in them and they will break down inside the door. A 4mil sheet should be good but 6mil makes for a somewhat more “structural” part which can be easier to work with.
Adhesives are a big deal. Honda uses 3M Snot ATG tape and it earns its name well, we use it on mockups all the time, it comes in a variety of thicknesses and is applied with a gun. Pass the snot gun never gets old.
I use weatherseal or ‘tyvek’ tape, it is often red and is used to seal tyvek to other materials on a house. I use this because the adhesive has a long life and it has good initial grab.
In the world of tape adhesives the breadth starts with masking tape and ‘duct tape’ on the one end which dries out and does nothing over time and 3M VHB tape at the other which is used to glue glass together or aluminum sheets to make ambulances…
Duct tape should be left to crafters, never bought for any other use and certainly never ever on a car.
I made a similar solution to the factory approach that NEG shows. Mine goes on the outside of the door at the top to 2/3rds/3/4 of the way down where it then goes into the door ending an inch or so from the bottom of the door. A second sheet is then applied over the top of the first sheet where it goes into the door cavity and sealed to the outside of the door and the face of the first sheet. The first sheet is awkward at the front of the door due to the way the cut out is and the equipment behind there.
The plastic used is important but not super critical. I have a roll of 8mil UV stabilized black sheet. It is incredibly strong/tough and any thing intended to go through it needs a hole cut (an X for the through hole) I wouldn’t use this if I were you. Don’t use a trash bag as many of them have biodegradable materials in them and they will break down inside the door. A 4mil sheet should be good but 6mil makes for a somewhat more “structural” part which can be easier to work with.
Adhesives are a big deal. Honda uses 3M Snot ATG tape and it earns its name well, we use it on mockups all the time, it comes in a variety of thicknesses and is applied with a gun. Pass the snot gun never gets old.
I use weatherseal or ‘tyvek’ tape, it is often red and is used to seal tyvek to other materials on a house. I use this because the adhesive has a long life and it has good initial grab.
In the world of tape adhesives the breadth starts with masking tape and ‘duct tape’ on the one end which dries out and does nothing over time and 3M VHB tape at the other which is used to glue glass together or aluminum sheets to make ambulances…
Duct tape should be left to crafters, never bought for any other use and certainly never ever on a car.
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