K20 Swap with no firewall cut.

Hussein,
Yep its really not for sure until the test fit. Any case I attacked the housing to see what could be achieved - maybe it will and maybe it won't !
If not I will just go with a flat plate with water and vapour ports.

Cheers Doug
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Finally have the MWB kit which I think is excellent.
I have made a stand as shown for the K20- simply wheel it under the hoist and lower the car onto it.
So easy to install this way.
 
Hi all K swap guys.
My engine bay is all ready to go but I have a couple of issues.
1) Can anyone comment on the clearance available for the clutch slave cylinder with regard to the cross member. ( I do not have a cylinder at the moment)
My box is a 5 speed but not sure if cylinder arrangement is any different to 6 speed.
2) My engine is a K20Z2 and I got hold of some driveshafts ex a K24 auto. The issue appears to be that the intermediate shaft alloy casting that bolts up the block is too large to allow installation of the shaft - maybe the K24 block is different in this area or the auto box driveshaft alignment axis is different ?

Any advice greatly appreciated.
 
Hi all K swap guys.
My engine bay is all ready to go but I have a couple of issues.
1) Can anyone comment on the clearance available for the clutch slave cylinder with regard to the cross member. ( I do not have a cylinder at the moment)
My box is a 5 speed but not sure if cylinder arrangement is any different to 6 speed.
2) My engine is a K20Z2 and I got hold of some driveshafts ex a K24 auto. The issue appears to be that the intermediate shaft alloy casting that bolts up the block is too large to allow installation of the shaft - maybe the K24 block is different in this area or the auto box driveshaft alignment axis is different ?

Any advice greatly appreciated.

The slave will hit the firewall behind the crossmember unless you indent/cut the firewall. I have pics that show the proximity in my thread. I'll see if I can locate them.

EDIT - with the drivetrain properly set, this is the clearance I had for the slave. It hit with the normal drivetrain movement. You can see it won't hit the frame rail - given the taper of the rail from mid point up to where it joins the tank wall (NOT the profile of the end cut, that's where it widened out to meet the ends).
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The blocks have multiple mount areas for the intermediate shaft, and different shafts use different arrangements to locate it, assuming the K20Z block is a similar casting to K24. You'll need to post pics of what you have so we can compare. You may need to buy the K20A intermediate shaft & carrier

EDIT
K20 vs. K24 intermediates. K24 is longer & had cast steel bracket, vs. aluminum for K20 (not shown). Both use different mount points
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Hussein,
Here is the shaft I have - the casting is alloy but I assume it is K24 as it is the longer one ?
Regarding the slave - I think you are saying an indent in the fire wall is all that is needed and no cuts to the crossmember ?
Is the fuel tank behind that point far enough away. ?
Thanks Doug

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MWB fit a different slave cylinder for clearance issues, you could try the same.
If you read through this post it's mentioned several times.
 
For my K20 mod I had to come up with a custom inlet manifold that hopefully would work but still retain the spare wheel location. The design rules ? I really just go with what feels right and replicate other design. The original manifold is machined off and a new adaptor plate cut out (6mm plate) and welded on. The airbox is made from fibre-glass . Moulding is green foam witch is mechanically removed after glassing up. I reckon you could fabricate other designs ( ie long runners etc) with the method. TB is 70mm. The brass fitting is for idle air via and external idle control. To make the airbox as large as possible I caved in the area near the spare wheel as much possible. The velocity stacks will be shortened a little before welding on to allow about 25mm clearance to the airbox.
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Thanks - great the clutchmasters unit does must be gold plated !
My 2 cents on the clutch masters throw out bearing
It fits into the gearbox fine but it's not made for standard road clutches there for there is insufficient room between the pressures plate and bearing itself leaving you with a clutch that's always engaged
I contacted the supplier and there response was it was made for twin plate racing clutches not standard size road clutches
 
twin plate racing clutches not standard size road clutches
? looking at this the other way around - is there a twin plate clutch that bolts into a std k24 and box? My limited experience with twin plates is that to maximise customers, they usually will fit into a std engine/box setup. So around the other way again - I am surprised that there is a packaging difference between single and twin in this Honda case. But then again, I have never worked on anything that recent!
 
My 2 cents on the clutch masters throw out bearing
It fits into the gearbox fine but it's not made for standard road clutches there for there is insufficient room between the pressures plate and bearing itself leaving you with a clutch that's always engaged
I contacted the supplier and there response was it was made for twin plate racing clutches not standard size road clutches
? if there is not enough room, you should get clutch diss-engaged? As in the bearing will press on the fingers. Sounds like an air gap issue - there is an adjustment/shimming procedure?
 
Looks like my initial assessment that it won't fit with a standard clutch is correct.
Easy solution may be to use this:
Or this:

Could then mount it above the gearbox.
 
The Civic SI / K-Tuned slave is about the most compact unit you'll find. You might have to use a little persuasion on the rail, but you shouldn't have to cut anything.


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