patrick garcia
Daily Driver
Does anyone have any good pics of how much i need to cut out so i can shoehorn a k20 motor into my X? Thx Patrick
k20 swap
- Thread starter patrick garcia
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- box engine swap box k20
Brayden_connolly
True Classic
This gives you an idea...
You will also need to clearance the left frame rail for the trans.
You will also need to clearance the left frame rail for the trans.
Rodger
True Classic
I started a K20 swap a couple of years ago and did a lengthy thread about the build. The photos got lost in the Photobucket debacle, but I have slowly been restoring them. It is not complete yet, but the pages showing the cuts and welds are back. https://xwebforums.com/forum/index.php?threads/k20-project-off-to-a-good-start.26774/
darwoodious
Darin Nelson
Here's some before/middle pics (attached) - hope they help.
I should mention this tho: the one place I've both read about and experienced that doesn't ever show in pictures well is this - when you are cutting the left (US drivers side) frame-rail to make space for the nose cone of the transmission, you really cut out the entire box section (from the inside) to the edge of the inner wheel well. I'll try to find a pic of it... there's one where I found it wouldn't fit and snapped a nice photo.
Otherwise, the info you get from MWB in their kit as well as the other pix available online are pretty good.
Good luck with the build!
I should mention this tho: the one place I've both read about and experienced that doesn't ever show in pictures well is this - when you are cutting the left (US drivers side) frame-rail to make space for the nose cone of the transmission, you really cut out the entire box section (from the inside) to the edge of the inner wheel well. I'll try to find a pic of it... there's one where I found it wouldn't fit and snapped a nice photo.
Otherwise, the info you get from MWB in their kit as well as the other pix available online are pretty good.
Good luck with the build!
Attachments
Last edited:
darwoodious
Darin Nelson
fiatmonkey
Tim Hoover
You took a big chunk out of the driver side frame rail for the transaxle. Did you need to take
The shifter linkage as well:
darwoodious
Darin Nelson
When I got my MWB kit and the instructions, photos etc of the cuts for the frame rail where the K20 trans needs to go, I was super conservative for the first fitting. I cut around and inch deep but it wasn't nearly enough. Ended up cutting the entire ... width from in on my setup. So I welded in a much thicker gauge replacement there and a LOT of gussets. I should have taken WAY more photos but of course didn't.
This replacement steel ran all the way up to the existing internal gusset that binds the front engine bay beam, the drivers side wheel well and the drivers side "box section".
Patrick, I agree that it would be very nice to have a guide to tell you how much to cut out, but in the end it comes down to your specific car and the subframe you either bought (MWB or other) or built. My only advice is to *think* about what you're cutting and when replacing the steel, think about the forces the existing metal were designed to deal with. In the end it's fun - makes you feel like a bit of a Bertone designer.
Including a couple of photos of my setup.
Best of luck!
UPDATE: One of the photos shows only the tack welds. I've also attached a (blurry) pic of the final kit.
This replacement steel ran all the way up to the existing internal gusset that binds the front engine bay beam, the drivers side wheel well and the drivers side "box section".
Patrick, I agree that it would be very nice to have a guide to tell you how much to cut out, but in the end it comes down to your specific car and the subframe you either bought (MWB or other) or built. My only advice is to *think* about what you're cutting and when replacing the steel, think about the forces the existing metal were designed to deal with. In the end it's fun - makes you feel like a bit of a Bertone designer.
Including a couple of photos of my setup.
Best of luck!
UPDATE: One of the photos shows only the tack welds. I've also attached a (blurry) pic of the final kit.
Attachments
patrick garcia
Daily Driver
thx everone who shared their info with me! I'll do my best to remember to take pics of everything I've to the X!
Oh heres another big thing I'm not married so i dont have to worry about!!! "You been workin all day on that damn car!!!!! Thx guys I'll keep you up to speed!
Oh heres another big thing I'm not married so i dont have to worry about!!! "You been workin all day on that damn car!!!!! Thx guys I'll keep you up to speed!
fiatmonkey
Tim Hoover
I was just looking at my original cuts into the driver side for the trans and I took out even more metal on my first project. On a more recent one, I took out far less metal and managed to get the trans to fit with a decent amount of room. My experience is the torque that moves the engine is front-back, so as long as you give the edge near toward the firewall the room for an up/down force, you are good.
sub-zeroil
True Classic
great info !
fiatmonkey
Tim Hoover
Where are you with your build? Is this car done? I love seeing all the k-series swaps here! Pretty awesome.
patrick garcia
Daily Driver
good morning everyone! my project has gotten off to a slow start! death in the family and the weather is not helping! Art the point where I'm about to pull the K20 from my donor car and was wondering what else I'm going to need to remove from the car. wiring harness and the ECU are givens!! anything else I'm going to need Thx Patrick1
fiatmonkey
Tim Hoover
Patrick - sorry to hear about the family. Hope you and yours are ok. Can't say much on the weather. We have had our share of rain lately but sunnier days are here.
The list:
Engine/Trans
Engine side harness (ECU to TB, injectors, etc.,
The inner CVs if they are in good condition, otherwise get them here:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C6N0IWY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C6N0A2C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Try to get ALL of the sensors with the engine and keep them from breaking. They add up.
Look for the ODB2 plug and try to save it with cables. It will come in handy when you it's not easy to get to your ECU for CEL comes on for any codes.
The charging harness is worth keep handy, but you may not use it.
Brayden, Darin - what am I missing?
Brayden_connolly
True Classic
You will need the body side C101 connector (or you can buy a new one on eBay for $40) and the E connector. If you want cruise control you can remove the switch and the control box and install it relatively easily. You will also need the primary O2 sensor and body side connector.
If you plan on using the stock ECU you will need the Keys, ignition switch, interlock mod and secondary O2s (if you upgrade to a Hondata you wont need them)
If you plan on using the stock ECU you will need the Keys, ignition switch, interlock mod and secondary O2s (if you upgrade to a Hondata you wont need them)
fiatmonkey
Tim Hoover
Man - I totally forgot about the C101 and E connector. Both are on the donor car harness now - or should be.
@patrick garcia IF you don't use the keys/ignition from the donor and do NOT use a hondata k-pro ECU upgrade (highly recommend Hondata), you can use an k-tuned ignition immobilizer override http://k-tuned.3dcartstores.com/Immobilizer-Multiplexor-Bypass_p_131.html sometimes cheap on eBay. I may have a spare actually.
Pete Whitstone
True Classic
Haltech is also an option, that's what I am running. The cost is about the same, but I imagine the Hondata probably has a larger user base, and I'm assuming more grass roots support out in the Honda forums.
So Patrick, what Arlington are you in, TX, VA or some other one?
Pete
Brayden_connolly
True Classic
I would stick with Hondata, its very user friendly makes tuning and sorting easy and now you can connect to your ecu through your cell phone via Bluetooth!
patrick garcia
Daily Driver
you mean theres another Arl????? I'm kiddin! here in Taxes i mean Texas!!
thanks for thew info
patrick garcia
Daily Driver
Thx guy, so dig this i was removing the wiring harness the other day and trying to get to the starter i noticed that a wire was hangin down, come to find out its the knock sensor! i have a 2000 prelude and i put a F20Bin the lude and going to throw the old one away, but i never got around to doin it so it sat in my garage! well low and behold thats the sensor that is broken!!!!!
patrick garcia
Daily Driver
the Hondata is the way to go then!!well its settled! Hondata it is!