K20A Euro R Swap - Project Inheritance

[Dr.Jeff]

I prefer to separate into two machines (as stated above.) On the TIG side, I can make suggestions from $1000 to $2000. For MIG machines, I can make recommendations from $600 to $1800.

I definitely see your point. For anyone looking to get both MIG and TIG capabilities, it's too bad the multiprocess units aren't more affordable.

Since I already have a MIG I'd only be interested in a TIG. However I'm not sure if the investment (even at $1000 that's significant) would be warranted for my personal situation. I certainly would have done it many years ago, when I still could have got my use out of it over all the builds I've done. However back then they were outrageously priced so I couldn't. At this point in life I'm getting close to being finished with build cars.

 

[Dr.Jeff]

For me it is important to have a machine that does it all including aluminum. I was prepared to buy a TIG and a MIG until I found the Parweld XTM 211Di. I didn't think a multi process machine could be good in all welding methods but this machine is impressive. I imported my machine from GB as it wasn't sold in Sweden at the time (it is now). The price was good; about 2300 USD including shipping, customs fees and taxes. Buying two quality machines would have been more expensive and would require more valuable garage space. Unfortunately I don't know if it is available in US.

Parweld XTM 211DI Multi Process Welder (AC/DC TIG)

Key Features 10MM maximum weld thickness on mild steel AC/DC TIG, MIG & MMA 110V / 230V input supply 15KG wire reel capacity Includes MIG torch & TIG torch as standard 3 year warranty

www.weldingsuppliesdirect.co.uk

It appears to only be available here from the UK. The price would be about what you paid once shipping and taxes are added. I think one consideration might be getting service parts, repairs, etc, for it here. I have a piece of welding equipment that was made in Italy and it has been a real problem getting supplies for it.

 

[Longitudinal]

I definitely see your point. For anyone looking to get both MIG and TIG capabilities, it's too bad the multiprocess units aren't more affordable.

Since I already have a MIG I'd only be interested in a TIG. However I'm not sure if the investment (even at $1000 that's significant) would be warranted for my personal situation. I certainly would have done it many years ago, when I still could have got my use out of it over all the builds I've done. However back then they were outrageously priced so I couldn't. At this point in life I'm getting close to being finished with build cars.

I understand that perspective also. I would feel as though somebody had cut off my arms if I couldn't weld at home. The ability to do your own welding also goes far beyond automotive projects.

For cheaper TIG machines, look to AHP, Everlast, and possibly Eastwood. Even HF's machine line seems to be pretty decent. But I have no personal experience with any of those machines to be able to vouch for them.

 

[KBabcock]

I was in this boat a year or so ago and weld mostly car items (1/4" or less) maybe half dozen times a year went MIG 140A. Read heavily on the machines available and went with Everlast. They were reasonably priced offered all the features I was looking for external ability to switch polarity, light weight, Digital inverter unit with a above average duty cycle 90A 60%, 140A 25%, infinite controls, 120V, Euro systyle connector with wire and gas all in the same plug and had a 5 year warranty. Price was under $400. Have not regretted my selection after several jobs. Just wish my skills where more up to the machine's capabilities.

Cyclone 140E - MIG Welders | Everlast Generators

For well over a decade, Everlast has been of the leading edge of the effort to pioneer the rise of reliable and affordable inverter MIG welders. The success that the old i-MIG inverter series enjoyed is a thing of legend. In fact, when we first introduced the inverter based i-MIG 140E, the...

www.everlastgenerators.com

 

[Rodger]

I understand that perspective also. I would feel as though somebody had cut off my arms if I couldn't weld at home. The ability to do your own welding also goes far beyond automotive projects.

For cheaper TIG machines, look to AHP, Everlast, and possibly Eastwood. Even HF's machine line seems to be pretty decent. But I have no personal experience with any of those machines to be able to vouch for them.

I bought the HF Vulcan Omnipro 220 a few years ago to use the TIG function when I was building my K20 exhaust. I have yet to use the MIG function but will once I find time to start on my ‘79 bodywork.
I found the quality to be very good on the Vulcan, much better than the usual HF stuff. The TIG worked great as I was teaching myself to weld SS. The main drawback to me is that you have to start the gas flow manually with a small knob on the torch. A few times I would get all set the lay down a weld but forget to turn on the gas which as you know, ends up with a bunch of sugaring mess that you then have to clean up before continuing. I assume that the better well known brands automatically start the flow as you press the foot pedal. Other than that, for the price, it seems to be a nicely built machine at a very good price, especially when you buy it on sale.

 

[Longitudinal]

I bought the HF Vulcan Omnipro 220 a few years ago to use the TIG function when I was building my K20 exhaust. I have yet to use the MIG function but will once I find time to start on my ‘79 bodywork.
I found the quality to be very good on the Vulcan, much better than the usual HF stuff. The TIG worked great as I was teaching myself to weld SS. The main drawback to me is that you have to start the gas flow manually with a small knob on the torch. A few times I would get all set the lay down a weld but forget to turn on the gas which as you know, ends up with a bunch of sugaring mess that you then have to clean up before continuing. I assume that the better well known brands automatically start the flow as you press the foot pedal. Other than that, for the price, it seems to be a nicely built machine at a very good price, especially when you buy it on sale.

I have heard good things about the Vulcans, and not only that they keep their emotions under control. With that said, I wouldn't want to deal with any machine that made me turn on my own gas or that didn't allow me to use a foot pedal. There are corners of the industry where torch-mounted gas valves and no control pedal are the standard, such as pipe welding. Sometimes they are even scratch started instead of "lift" started. I don't like touching my electrode to the work until it's time for me to dip the electrode in the pool.

But lift or scratch starting make TIG machines cheaper to build, thus putting them in the hands of people who otherwise would pass on buying one. (High frequency modules add cost to a TIG machine.)

 

[asudiswa]

Thanks for all the welder suggestions on here guys. It’s been a little bit since I’ve posted as work has been crazy busy with travel. Any ideas of the best way to tackle this area? It’s next to the gas tank. I was thinking if I did a Dallara kit I may have to cut and would give me access but a guy on the fb group thinks that may not be the case. I have a donor car I can splice in but with it being in a structural area I want to do it right and make sure it has more than enough strength. If I don’t go that way or don’t have access what’s was the best route to remove the outer skin?

 

[lookforjoe]

I commented on FB regarding access from the outside, not really a viable option. I would remove the inner baffle/plate that ties the bulkhead to the strut tower & do all the patch work from the engine bay. if you drill out the baffle with a spotweld bit, not hard to re-attach after. I don't think that is worth cutting from the other car, I'd make repair pieces and do it in stages, starting with whichever panel sits the furthest in.

 

[asudiswa]

I commented on FB regarding access from the outside, not really a viable option. I would remove the inner baffle/plate that ties the bulkhead to the strut tower & do all the patch work from the engine bay. if you drill out the baffle with a spotweld bit, not hard to re-attach after. I don't think that is worth cutting from the other car, I'd make repair pieces and do it in stages, starting with whichever panel sits the furthest in.

Thanks again for all you do, and your advice!

 

[asudiswa]

So I decided, with the rot in Larry's car, that it would be best to source another car for the swap. I'll restore his at a later point to stock, but I wanted to avoid putting the K20 in his due to the weakness in many areas. So I sourced another x1/9 from GA that was garage stored since '95. Not completely rust-free, but much better than what I'll eventually have to fix with my dads.

 

[asudiswa]

The first thing was to get the brakes going. It was a total PITA, but I wanted to replace it all while I was at it. So I replaced the clutch master, brake master, and clutch slave since I may be driving it before pulling the drive train. Highly recommend anyone taking on this job go ahead and replace all of the flex lines as well. I think those contribute to most of the bleeding issues I've read here. I don't like splicing in the hard lines, and I will redo those when I do big brakes. I happened to find some m10x1.25 ends locally after I got it put back together, which I was surprised by.

 

[asudiswa]

I was extremely nervous about the drain area in the engine bay, so I addressed that immediately while doing brakes and found that the tube was clogged. I cleaned it up, but unfortunately, I don't have any pics from before or right after I finished. The quick job was to stop the spread of any rust. It's not rotted, but I'm definitely going to sandblast those areas and fix it correctly. The front cowl is the main area where I see some cancer spots. I had two issues with this car: the hood was not functioning correctly, so I robbed from my dad's car and did a quick paint on it to go to a car show the second was the passenger headlight motor. Then today I wanted to look into the blower motor for the a/c, and lo and behold the rat's nest that I found. Some days you just decide to step in it instead of accidentally stepping in it.

 

[asudiswa]

Bought a radio today and was going to install it. Key word WAS. I wanted to look into why the blower motor gave up the ghost. Looks like some one was here before and left one of the hose clamps completely loose. Going to look to have the heater core gone over while it’s out and try to see if I can find a replacement motor or have this one rebuilt. Won’t do that unless they’ll replace the bearings after reading through the forums. Drain was completely clogged.

 

[kmead]

Bought a radio today and was going to install it. Key word WAS. I wanted to look into why the blower motor gave up the ghost. Looks like some one was here before and left one of the hose clamps completely loose. Going to look to have the heater core gone over while it’s out and try to see if I can find a replacement motor or have this one rebuilt. Won’t do that unless they’ll replace the bearings after reading through the forums. Drain was completely clogged.

View attachment 73324
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I presume you won’t be going with AC.

I would suggest buying a non AC set up and changing to the manual controls. If the heater matrix is leaking they are very hard to find.

The motor was also used on some BMWs of the period.

 

[asudiswa]

I presume you won’t be going with AC.

I would suggest buying a non AC set up and changing to the manual controls. If the heater matrix is leaking they are very hard to find.

The motor was also used on some BMWs of the period.

I actually want to retain a/c but will do a different layout on the compressor like Rodger did on his swap. I found this valve on eBay yesterday by combing through threads and reading part numbers. Not sure if this would be a direct fit. I also found a guy in va that rebuilds them not but will have to wait until tomorrow to find out. I’m about to pull out the valve today as P/O said it leaked. Debating on which way to replace I saw a few threads on moving it to the side and kinda like Hussein’s idea of doing an electric valve too. I still have my dad’s non a/c car I could move everything over if I wanted to go that route but the Mrs. likes her a/c.

 

[kmead]

I actually want to retain a/c but will do a different layout on the compressor like Rodger did on his swap. I found this valve on eBay yesterday by combing through threads and reading part numbers. Not sure if this would be a direct fit. I also found a guy in va that rebuilds them not but will have to wait until tomorrow to find out. I’m about to pull out the valve today as P/O said it leaked. Debating on which way to replace I saw a few threads on moving it to the side and kinda like Hussein’s idea of doing an electric valve too. I still have my dad’s non a/c car I could move everything over if I wanted to go that route but the Mrs. likes her a/c.

There are plastic valve which will do the same job. The bigger issue is the heater core matrix which will be harder to replace. They are relatively rare and were generally junked with the rest of the car when they shuffle off their time as a car.

 

[asudiswa]

Thanks Karl! I saw the plastic valve here, and thought that was a good fix from an access standpoint. Looking at this core it looks okish, and the guy I bought it from said it was replaced not too long ago. The evaporator is ok, but the a/c line is very stuck at the moment. I had to cut the hose to get the box out. It looks like someone may have ran all of the stop leak that the store had in stock at one point to no avail. I have a few radiator shops near me, and one that I know is really good back where I'm originally from. I'm going to have one of them go through both just to make sure. I think while it is out I will do the heater box refurb I read through while I'm at it.

 

[kmead]

Thanks Karl! I saw the plastic valve here, and thought that was a good fix from an access standpoint. Looking at this core it looks okish, and the guy I bought it from said it was replaced not too long ago. The evaporator is ok, but the a/c line is very stuck at the moment. I had to cut the hose to get the box out. It looks like someone may have ran all of the stop leak that the store had in stock at one point to no avail. I have a few radiator shops near me, and one that I know is really good back where I'm originally from. I'm going to have one of them go through both just to make sure. I think while it is out I will do the heater box refurb I read through while I'm at it. View attachment 73344

I would definitely pressure test the heater core before putting it back in given how difficult it is to get all of this stuff in and out of the car. Household water pressure is @40psi versus the 13 or so the cooling system runs at so would be a reasonable pressure to test at. (Most engineering is designs for a minimum 2.5x proof load versus day to day use load).

 

[asudiswa]

Have been working on rebuilding the heater box. If you’re working on this @LarryC has a really detailed thread on rebuilding these boxes, and upgrading the a/c. Many thanks to him for documenting it so well. Below is what the box looked like when it came out of the car.

 

[asudiswa]

Here is what I did to rebuild mine based on his thread. I bought a blower motor from MWB after trying many different new motors that were suggested as alternatives, but to no avail. The one I got from MWB was really good, and the only thing I did was add a layer of paint to ensure it doesn’t rust anytime soon. Originally I had my heater core repaired as they’re impossible to find, but the evaporator had a leak at one of the joints so I went on a mission to find a company that could replicate the OE unit. Surprisingly they also could do the heater core as well. They did so with pretty good accuracy the only thing I had to do was increase the hole size so I could fit a stand-off on the evaporator. Below is what the finished box looks like and the company that recreated the hc and evap.