Keeping the decklid open...

DanielForest

True Classic
Hi,

With the install of the Faza snorkel, the removal of the rain tray and the fitting of weber dcoe's with long trumpets (all the way into the rear trunk), I would like to be able to keep the decklid open to allow better air circulation, something like an inch of opening. My first idea was to fit a longer prop latch instead of the original decklid one (like the one for the engine cover) but It seems complicated. Both latch are welded between 2 layers of metal skin.

So I'm searching for another option. Instead of using the original catch, I could fit a "trailer door hook and keeper". The idea is I don't want the movement of the car closing the lid or leave it to fly completely open. So the more basic model would not do since the movement may allow to unlatch it. But I kinda like the one below.

The left part would be bolted near the original catch latch and the part on the right bolted to the underside of the decklid. Another advantage would be I could keep the original latching mechanism if I want to close the decklid completely.

DH300_45.jpg


I'm also thinking about 2" circular holes behind the licence plates to allow more aire exiting. Then, I would have to move the licence a little farther with some studs. But that's another subject... Anyway, since I'm working on my car for 20 years now, I'm not going to rush anything...:rolleyes:
 
I am doing the same thing - increasing the airflow for the rear trunk area. In my case I'm making a bit more radical modification, but you could do a similar approach with less change.

I am in the process of cutting out the recessed portion of the rear panel, where the taillights and license plate are located plus the surrounding flat area that extends down in the middle. Then I will replace that cutout portion with a mesh panel. I am removing the stock tail lights to replace them with a different (smaller) style, which is why I'm including that area in my removal. But you could confine the cutout to just the center section...like this:

tn_IMG_0486 - Copy.jpg
 
I am doing the same thing - increasing the airflow for the rear trunk area. In my case I'm making a bit more radical modification, but you could do a similar approach with less change.

I am in the process of cutting out the recessed portion of the rear panel, where the taillights and license plate are located plus the surrounding flat area that extends down in the middle. Then I will replace that cutout portion with a mesh panel. I am removing the stock tail lights to replace them with a different (smaller) style, which is why I'm including that area in my removal. But you could confine the cutout to just the center section...like this:

View attachment 30089
Thanks Jeff, I had seen a similar pic. But my car would have to stay street legal, including licence plate and light for it. But that's what my idea of doing circular holes behind the plate and moving the plate outward was.
 
You could still do the license plate standoff over the mest grill. Certainly more ventilation than circular holes. However I also understand it is a rather severe modification. Here is another example just for visual appeal:
tn_IMG_0576.jpg


My other "Outlaw X" project is getting much more modification to the rear than this. But that will be awhile yet, I'm going to try and focus on one project at a time and see if I can actually accomplish some progress.
 
How about lifting the front of the trunk lid by adding hinge exentions?
To raise the rear and latch it, you could use racing type latches, pins or similar items, that sit on raised towers.
When I had DCOEs on the rat, I too wondered about getting air to them since the stacks and filters are in the rear trunk. I had drilled four holes in the rear panel below the license plate. I thought about getting NACA scoops for the rear trunk lid but the car got murdered before I could do anything further.
 
If the side lower corners behind the wheel wells are rusted out then that will allow plenty of air into the truck. :D
 
That was actually the case on my X, thanks for reminding me why I was not in a tizzy over venting of that area.
 
Those corners were completely rotted away on the "Outlaw X" - internally and externally, so I cut the entire corners off along with the rusty rear valance. The plan (if there really is one) is to make a fake diffuser, just so there is something to cover the big open space across the entire rear of the car. But that car has LOTs of ventilation everywhere, so no need to add cold air intakes.
 
The easy way will probably be using hood pins, the basic model. The cotter pin will prevent the lid to open more and some rubber or urethane bushing under the lid will avoid the lid to close. Here is a picture of what I mean:
hood pin with urethane bushing.jpg


If needed, more than one bushing could be use on top of each other and the pin will sit higher than the one in the picture to accomodate for at least an inch of opening.

Another advantage will be the possibility to remove the bushings and completely close the engine lid, locking it in the original latch. The hood pin will stick 1 or 2 inch from the engine lid, but that will be ok for me. Nothing perfect.
 
Understanding that FIAT spent a lot of time with the X in a wind tunnel during development, and out of that testing came refinements to the front spoiler and the undercar trays, I think that one should at least start with restoring the undercar trays, which I have a feeling a lot of cars lost along the way. I suspect the undercar trays go along way in shaping the airflow under the car so that as little undercar air as possible is sucked into the engine compartment by the negative pressure area behind the backlight and above the engine cover. My supposition regarding this is threefold: (1) undercar air probably is heated to some degree due to much of it having passed thru the rad and in summer conditions would be hotter than ambient air due to being close to the pavement; (2) that it is advantageous for undercar air to pass under the car with as little turbulence as possible--if it is being sucked into the engine compartment, that would be turbulent; and (3) that the undercar trays reduce undercar air entering the engine compartment and therefore allow more of the negative pressure to be applied to bringing "sidecar air" into the engine compartment thru the side scoops, which one would expect would be cooler.

I do recall (IIRC) your experiment with an anemometer grafted onto the side scoops, but as I mentioned at the time, while your experiment was intriguing, the test car lacked the undercar trays and a more realistic test should be done with the stock trays in place if we wanted to evaluate the merits of the original design.
 
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The late John Edwards of Costa Mesa R&D did a video on a mod he did that retains the rain tray but spaces it way from the engine cover proper to increase air flow. He states that the mod made the engine run cooler but did not provide any more data other than that statement.

 
I think that one should at least start with restoring the undercar trays, which I have a feeling a lot of cars lost along the way. I suspect the undercar trays go along way in shaping the airflow under the car so that as little undercar air as possible is sucked into the engine compartment
If that theory is correct I will certainly remove the splash shields. Even if the rad is heating up the air it would still cool the engine. Thats the normal way on a front engine car so why should ours be different? I think the only drawback is that rain water, dirt and dust will be sucked up through the engine bay. As I am going for turbo a lot of heat will be produced and I will most likely benefit from a good airflow through engine bay (with or without turbulence). If it creates more drag from side vents used for cold air intake and oil cooler, it would be even better.
 
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