LH2.4 Conversion

These are press into the FR-4 (fiber glass) PC board connectors, famous for becoming intermittent over time, aging, temperature cycling, mechanical stress and ... Many years ago when ATE introduced their ABS system that was used in deluxe motos at significant expense and put ABS into the very desirable moto option list, ATE decided to produce a cost reduction_ed version of ABS. It was used in VW and some others. This ABS system by ATE became intermittent over time causing all sorts of ABS system nightmares for owners.

-The problem was due to press into the PC board connectors like this.

This design and why they are used is strictly driven by cost and profitability. IMO, they should NEVER be used in a mechanically stressed environment like a moto as they are going to fail, not if, but when they will fail. The connection relies on mechanical resilience of the FR-4 PC board material and connector pin. Problem with this design belief, fiber glass will relax over time due to temperature cycling, vibration, corrosion from moisture and more. Adding to this problem, the plating on these boards can corrode and oxidize.

-Solution to this problem is to simply solder ALL The connectors to the PCB and mechanically stabilize them as how it was done here.
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The other variation of this problem, insulation displacement connectors. They are another cost reduction profit driven electrical item that should not be use in mechanical system like motos as they are subject to similar modes of failure as these press in PC board connectors.


Bernice




Aha! Looking behind, I could see the large red spade was loose - unfortunately not the female spade at issue- the male connector had separated from the circuit board :( after numbering and removing all the harness plugs, I came to this:

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Not about to buy a new or used box - I want to drive it tomorrow- so I took it apart:

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Resoldered the joint, and then epoxied the socket side base and the circuit side, to help take some of the load off the connector when the box is moved around. Only up to the connector shoulder seen in the first pic.

That fixed all the problems except the interior lights and radio. After a range of circuit testing I realized the fuse wasn’t the “Services” fuse, but the one described as “lighter”. Blast. Turned out the element was shorting in a fairly random fashion - I had noticed the radio & lights out from time to time, but the fuse had never blown immediately before today.
 
Remade the 3” inlet pipe from filter to throttle body today. This one I made previously was a little short in terms of getting the filter tip close to the side opening, and I’ve never liked the awkward angle it sat at. Breather vent tube is also a nicer more compact fit from the underside. Functionally, it worked fine as is in terms of vac draw on the crankcase.

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IAC I/O hose is Volvo 945751 EPDM.

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Used another 3” inlet pipe that was previously used on my Volvo. Chopped it down & offset the TB end to get it to sit more nicely in the trough between the engine and firewall. To get it truly level and aligned I would have had to make another chop and weld in the 90 bend. Not worth it. Filter now sits more level.

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Filter tip now sits nice and close to the aperture

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Started adding some timing back in up top

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previous iteration

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Note to self: erasable 27SF512k / 28 pin chip settings/buffer start address (use instead of old 256k UV eraser version)

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Added a timer circuit for the engine bay fan. Note to self: Function 25, Timer 8
EDIT: 5/25/18 change Function to 16 (timer engage with trigger input, deactivates when timer expires or before if temp drops below trigger cut off)

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Thermoswitch moved closer to lower part of cambox, closer to surface of head & manifolds. In this position, fan turns on shortly after coming to a halt after highway run, as the heat soak sets in. Keeps coolant temp just below "normal" marker without any driver input :).

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Great news!

Thermoswitch moved closer to lower part of cambox, closer to surface of head & manifolds. In this position, fan turns on shortly after coming to a halt after highway run, as the heat soak sets in. Keeps coolant temp just below "normal" marker without any driver input :).
Especially the part about no driver input. Way to go. This weekend should tax the system with it getting so warm.
 
Need to take some timing back out over 3700 - thought I heard audible knock in 2nd under load (uphill pull). Verified with my det can headphones attached to fitting I attached to block - using stock 1500 oil pressure sender location. I'll go back to previous settings for 3700 - 4100 - 4600 columns.
 
Relocated my FPR , and painted the door stop covers again - used a better paint & treated the surface first this time. Previous paint peeled off in a single skin after a couple days of use.

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Going to make a revised coolant tank that tucks closer to the strut tower. Slightly smaller (chop off rear outer corner), now I know the level of coolant it prefers :D
 
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New coolant tank in

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Added more fuel over 4K/mid-load on up. Using a 'det can" (headphones with tubing attached to a copper tube on the block) I heard light knock around 4,5K in 4th. Going to try to add fuel before I pull timing.

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Also raised (from whats here) the WOT slider settings - now I have low 13's @ WOT instead of (14+)

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