LH2.4 Conversion

lookforjoe

True Classic
Started working on the conversion from LH2.2 to LH2.4 last year Original LH2.2 conversion starts around here

Gathered most of the hardware - chippable LH2.4 ECU 6842115 (951), 3547847 crank sensor, 3517020 (016) MAF. EZK 25 pin connector PN: (TE) 827249-1 - available at Mouser.com

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chippable EZK116 ECU 3517402 (146)

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Ostrich 2.0 to create modified fuel & ign maps with TunerPro RT

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EDIS 60-2 trigger wheel mounted to crank pulley

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Found out that the wheel has to be 60/1 - in other words, with 1 long tooth vs. a long trough. I braised a tooth in an created the 3º gaps

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Elongated the mount holes to allow for the repositioning of the trigger wheel, to get the trigger wheel 15 teeth after the long tooth trailing edge with the crank at TDC

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EDIT; CORRECTED FINAL VERSION

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Air gap set to 1mm

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Built a new harness for the LH2.4 setup

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Wired to use a later fuel system relay - 1362914 - from 90's 700 series

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As an integral part of this conversion, I needed a speed signal, so I did the electronic speedo conversion following Yves's setup using Fiat Punto Mk1 (93-98)

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This transmitter provides the pulse to run the speedo & provide LH2.4 with a pulse for idle control, fuel cut under decel, and some other aspect I can't recall right now...

191 919 149E sender, 1J0973703 pigtail

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more to come :)
 
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Saab Trionic needs it's own direct ignition module, which is used for IonSense technology.

Trionic 5 can be taken out from a Saab and it might be possible to use invidual ignition coils from a Trionic 8 system, otherwise you'll have to use the Trionic 5 ignition cassette...
 
Yeah, if I were going with a newer-than LH2.4 system, I would go with a Motronic system used by Volvo that I have ready access to both hardware and tuneable BIN files. Being a Volvo Guy, I do not lean towards Saab :rolleyes2:

If I could have put a T5 in it, I would have used Motronic 4.4 from the late 90's, I already know how to self tune that system ;)

LH2.4 is sophisticated enough for my needs. Has rudimentary integral system diagnosis, and self check functions for all components.
 
I thought that jetronic box looked familiar!

Very cool work there. Ah memories, I remember ripping out that jetronic box when I put a Ford Mustang 5.0 V8 into my '87 780 Bertone. I made a Fjord!
 
My my have you been busy!

So where does all that stuff fit? :)

The ECUs go in the spare wheel well - I have the LH.2.2/EZK117 there now

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The rest will simply reuse existing componentry. If I'd done this from the start, I could have kept the Fiat Dist., as it is only used for spark distribution with 2.4.
 
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Wow!

Hussein,
Great works, you are multidisciplinary.:geek:

Is the trigger wheel is totally handcrafted ... all the 60 drilled holes? + harness + ... etc
I really look forward to your comments as a whole will be completed.
:worship::worship::worship:
 
Got the trigger wheel reset today - tail edge of the 15th tooth after long tooth now aligns with TDC marker

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Got the speed signal transmitter installed, used heat sheathing on the harness due to proximity to header & oil cooler. Routed harness around firewall & over to the passenger compartment access point I added in the spare wheel well.

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Removed speedo cable. Hopefully get going on the conversion after work tomorrow.
 
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Yves - the trigger wheel is sold as a blank in many sizes, with the teeth cut - one just has to add mounting slots, etc. Problem is that it is designed for aftermarket EMS (MS, etc) that do not need the long tooth as reference marker. The harness I had to build.
 
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Got the LH2.2 harness out & have the 2.4 harness through the firewall. Have to do the tie in to EZK, and arrange the routing for the injectors, CIS, IAC, etc.

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Worked on the 3" inlet pipe, IAC placement and wiring today

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-6AN Union with 1/8" NPT barb fitting for branch to feed CSV (1069-06MF, Pegasus Auto Racing) (VPE-16486, Summit Racing)

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Injector relay
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Wiring tidied & overall component placement sorted


Flame trap hose
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Diagnostics box

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Yeah.... I thought about using AN hose couplings - I did that on my wagon - but they are way to cumbersome and ungainly for these two small items :)

Working on the inside wiring - got the main connections done.

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Need to find and connect power from AC relay to ECU, power from AC pressure switch to ECU, speed signal to speedo, CEL signal to cluster, up shift signal to cluster, high and low speed fan to ECU, all connections to EZK ECU, and rewire hall switch connector for Crank position sensor input instead. Hopefully I'll get most of that done after work tomorrow
 
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Had some trials & tribulations getting this going.

After getting all the wiring needed to just run, I had no crank signal.

Turns out, the long tooth of the trigger wheel has to be three teeth / two gaps length. I filled in the leading gap, but used brass filler

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Needless to say, that didn't work out. Wheel has to be steel for the magnetic pulse to generate.

Redid the tooth using steel filler rod

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Set the trigger wheel with the gap at the sensor 90º after trailing edge of long tooth, with crank marker * TDC

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I don't know exactly where the factory setting is, I'm going off the Volvo design diagram

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Dist rotor is set dead center on #1 contact in cap, at TDC.

Wiring

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So, it fires right up & runs. Base timing is set by the ECU * 12ºBTDC - looks closer to 14º, which is still within spec. Problem is, it's way too lean at part load & feels terrible. Max advance is 30ºBTDC . I need to see if I can sort it out with larger injectors and/or MAF from the 6 cylinder version (... 012). This is a standard mod for +T setups. I'm using 18.25lb injectors * 50psi, to get idle AFR's in the 14.2-15 range. I may try 24lb injectors to see if that fattens it up.

I'd rather not retard the timing map if I can avoid it. Motor runs cooler simply because of the increased timing * idle, which is a nice plus. There are two modifier pins in the EZK116K system that when grounded, either advance or retard the entire curve 3-9º (except idle value), so that is an option.

Modified the torque mount bracket, to allow the mount to clear the fuel line / cold start valve union

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Reprogram fuel map?

Hey Hussein,

didn't you say that the LH2.4 was somewhat programmable? If so, can't you simply modify the fuel map to provide more fuel (longer duty cycle) at part load? Assuming the system is programmable, you shouldn't need bigger injectors unless you are reaching 100% duty cycle and still running lean.

Assuming the system is not programmable, I've had good success with this kit:

http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&title=The-Digital-Fuel-Adjuster-Part-1&A=2418

... which allows you to modify the signal coming from the air flow sensor (to "trick" the ECU into thinking there is more / less air).

Anyway, good luck! I'm following the thread with interest as I feel that a later Bosch unit is a much easier upgrade than going the MS route which requires a significant tuning effort.

Cheers,
Dom.
 
Yes, this system (both ign and fuel) can be programmed to some extent, and it is adaptive. I just want to establish a decent base line with the hardware as it is, since adaptive takes awhile to settle, and it's just too far off base as it is. I'm reasonably certain that increasing fueling will resolve the part load lean, and take advantage of the increased timing.

If I can't bring it in line with altering the hardware ( MAF and injectors are easy swap) then I will look at the tuning. I'm unfamiliar with the target approach used in LH2.4, so that will be somewhat of a learning curve. Most people tuning as doing so in +T setups, so getting help with adjusting parameter targets is hit & miss at the moment.
 
Fuel pressure?

Ok, fair enough. Sounds like a good plan.

Just an idea: wouldn't increasing the fuel pressure be easier than buying bigger injectors? You will effectively receive more fuel at the same duty cycle.

Dom.

Yes, this system (both ign and fuel) can be programmed to some extent, and it is adaptive. I just want to establish a decent base line with the hardware as it is, since adaptive takes awhile to settle, and it's just too far off base as it is. I'm reasonably certain that increasing fueling will resolve the part load lean, and take advantage of the increased timing.

If I can't bring it in line with altering the hardware ( MAF and injectors are easy swap) then I will look at the tuning. I'm unfamiliar with the target approach used in LH2.4, so that will be somewhat of a learning curve. Most people tuning as doing so in +T setups, so getting help with adjusting parameter targets is hit & miss at the moment.
 
Ok, fair enough. Sounds like a good plan.

Just an idea: wouldn't increasing the fuel pressure be easier than buying bigger injectors? You will effectively receive more fuel at the same duty cycle.

Dom.

Yes, I have already raised it to 50psi base, as it runs far too lean at the normal 42.5psi. The problem is that raising it too high can lead to volume issues. I found that the injectors I used are actually 18.25lb * 3bar, not 20, so that is part of the problem. I'd rather use larger injectors & run lower pressure. I ordered a set of (0 280 155 831) 24lb injectors used on Volvo T6's. I can try raising it to 60psi base, and see if it helps part load.
 
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Rechecked the base timing, and with the slight CCW rotation of the trigger wheel (on the 15th tooth flat instead of just past it) it looks like 12º base near as dammit. :)

Tried the 3" MAF & larger injectors. Actually runs quite well.

I tried jacking the fuel pressure to 70psi with the 18.25Lb'ers and stock MAF, and it wasn't happy at all.

With the 012 MAF, and 30Lb ...759 Red injectors (V70 LPT '98) and fuel pressure dropped back to 45psi base it seems quite happy, feels much better & fuel AFR's are more reasonable under load. Idle O2 sweep is pretty decent.

Slight funkiness with off throttle & decel feel with the 012 MAF, think that was also discussed on TB as a by-product.

Does have some knock under load - I expect due to the load resolution shift that has been discussed with the 012 MAF.

video

I tried grounding EZK pin 18 for 3º retard over the curve (excludes idle timing), and that wasn't enough. I'll try pin 19 for 6º & see how that goes tomorrow.
 
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