Long radiator bleed screw and targa top storage- is it my f#$$^* imagination?

Kevin Cozzo

Kevin Cozzo

True Classic
ok so I had a radiator bleeder screw rot out, and ended up getting the longer one, as I couldn't find a shorty...I put my top in there without the trim on it, and it seemed to "not fit"...I finish fixin my latches and putting the trim on, and it looks like that effing bleeder screw is right in the way...didn't wanna scratch up my newly painted latches...I'm getting the feeling the longer bleeder screw kinda sucks...my car is a 77...is the longer screw for later models? I do have an aftermarket aluminum radiator
 
Can't you just flip the roof around so the roof latches are on the right hand side of the car when stowed?

AFAIK the bleed screw was same for all years, but not 100% on this as we don't see a lot of post 1983 cars here.

SteveC
 
The upper locator on the rad is a cylindrical nub that is supposed to have a rubber bushing around it for vibration control. If yours does not have the bushing or it was replaced with something of less thickness than original, that would allow the rad to mount higher and thus allow more of the bleeder to protrude past the sheet metal of the front frunk bulkhead.

www.midwest-bayless.com

Radiator Rubber Mounting Post Bushing Upper TOP (Fiat Bertone X1/9, Lancia Scorpion All) - U8

Radiator Rubber Mounting Post Bushing Upper TOP (Fiat Bertone X1/9, Lancia Scorpion All) - U8
www.midwest-bayless.com www.midwest-bayless.com
 
fiatfactory said:
Can't you just flip the roof around so the roof latches are on the right hand side of the car when stowed
Click to expand...
Coming from a guy that drives on the wrong side of the road 😆....Ya know it's like a fluid motion thing putting it in the same way from the left hand side...of course these days it's a freaking struggle already with the bad back, and lowering the car didn't help, lol. My previous bleeder screw, didn't protrude at all, had to actually find it with the old finger there, down in the hole. this thing sticks up like 2"...And not just the latches hitting it either, it looks like it would catch the chrome edge, and weatherstripping. Nobody seems to have the old shorty one. guess I'll just find a stainless bolt and make a plug- frustrating.....
 
Dan Sarandrea (Phila) said:
The upper locator on the rad is a cylindrical nub that is supposed to have a rubber bushing around it for vibration control. If yours does not have the bushing or it was replaced with something of less thickness than original, that would allow the rad to mount higher and thus allow more of the bleeder to protrude past the sheet metal of the front frunk bulkhead.

www.midwest-bayless.com

Radiator Rubber Mounting Post Bushing Upper TOP (Fiat Bertone X1/9, Lancia Scorpion All) - U8

Radiator Rubber Mounting Post Bushing Upper TOP (Fiat Bertone X1/9, Lancia Scorpion All) - U8
www.midwest-bayless.com www.midwest-bayless.com
Click to expand...
pretty sure that's all good. There are 2 different bleeder screws, old shorter one worked fine...frustrating because I paid quite a bit for something that doesn't work
 
Just to clarify, did you just have a new (longer) bleeder screw soldered to your old radiator or did you get a new radiator?
 
Kevin Cozzo said:
I do have an aftermarket aluminum radiator
Click to expand...
I know some of the aftermarket aluminum rads have different dimensions than the stock rads. Yours might place the bleeder screw higher up?

But I agree with you, it is most likely that the longer screw is just too long. There is a short bleeder screw that directly fits the X rad and is easily found for little money. It was originally a plastic screw used on BMW's but was prone to failures over time, so the aftermarket makes inexpensive replacements out of brass. A little different design than the Fiat bleeder but I like it. It has a regular slot on top for a screwdriver rather than the allen wrench. And the design allows air to escape with only a little loosening, opposed to having to back it way out like the stock one.

Google "BMW radiator bleeder screw". I bought a couple of them for about $2 each.
 
It must be a really long screw cause on my 1980 it is so deep into the access hole that I have to search a few minutes to insert the allen key into position. There is no way my top could hit that one. The gap to reach for the screw is at least an inch...
 
One of my X's (don't recall which one at the moment) came with a taller ("long") bleeder screw. Definitely a factory part. But I agree with Daniel it still wasn't tall enough to hit the top.
 
DanielForest said:
It must be a really long screw cause on my 1980 it is so deep into the access hole that I have to search a few minutes to insert the allen key into position. There is no way my top could hit that one. The gap to reach for the screw is at least an inch...
Click to expand...
the listing for the shorter screw is for 73-78....so the radiator design must be different
 
just a little too tall
 

Attachments

  • screw2.jpg
    screw2.jpg
    221.1 KB · Views: 118
Dr.Jeff said:
I know some of the aftermarket aluminum rads have different dimensions than the stock rads. Yours might place the bleeder screw higher up?

But I agree with you, it is most likely that the longer screw is just too long. There is a short bleeder screw that directly fits the X rad and is easily found for little money. It was originally a plastic screw used on BMW's but was prone to failures over time, so the aftermarket makes inexpensive replacements out of brass. A little different design than the Fiat bleeder but I like it. It has a regular slot on top for a screwdriver rather than the allen wrench. And the design allows air to escape with only a little loosening, opposed to having to back it way out like the stock one.

Google "BMW radiator bleeder screw". I bought a couple of them for about $2 each.
Click to expand...
yeah, I have found the bimmer screw in brass, even on Amazon, lol...I have an offset flathead screwdriver that would be perfect for that. Really liked the old shorty, with allen key, in case it gets hard to turn
 
carl said:
Just to clarify, did you just have a new (longer) bleeder screw soldered to your old radiator or did you get a new radiator?
Click to expand...
naw, got a "Texas Heat" radiator from Vics...used same old bleeder. You couldn't even see it, had to find it. It worked fine, till the bleeder rotted out. Recently replaced it with a long one from Vics- says "fits all models" well it fits, but it will f*** up my top...
 
Kevin, looking at the picture of your radiator I think it is a function of the radiator and not the bleeder screw. As I mentioned I also had the longer screw on a stock radiator and it did not stick out past the body sheet metal. So with your aftermarket rad the longer screw obviously won't work. I also have one of those aluminum (Texas Heat) rads but I put the BMW screw in it. So I don't know how a longer one would fit. I guess the bottom line is you cannot use a long bleed screw on a VAS rad.
 
Dr.Jeff said:
Kevin, looking at the picture of your radiator I think it is a function of the radiator and not the bleeder screw. As I mentioned I also had the longer screw on a stock radiator and it did not stick out past the body sheet metal. So with your aftermarket rad the longer screw obviously won't work. I also have one of those aluminum (Texas Heat) rads but I put the BMW screw in it. So I don't know how a longer one would fit. I guess the bottom line is you cannot use a long bleed screw on a VAS rad.
Click to expand...
Yep! well I had to go to Germany to find one, but I just found out an Audi 2005 A4 uses a 10x1 bleeder screw...different design, but thought I'd just take a chance...Weather is so whacky these days, I don't like driving without my top...I liked the bmw one, but really like that allen key more, lol
 

Attachments

  • 1634945575014.png
    1634945575014.png
    184.5 KB · Views: 61
My Alu rad came with a wing screw and I used that one instead of the long stock screw as I was afraid that it would leak. I open/tight it through the hole with a small spanner which is working fine.
IMG_20210326_195144~2.jpg
 
So update... I finally got the Audi bleed screw, and it seems to work fantastic- it does use a much smaller allen wrench...I plan on putting some sort of clip to hold the wrench in my Frunk, so it's always there. I believe it is brass, and instead of a hole drilled thru it, it has a flatted side on the threads, and a copper sealing washer permanently mounted. I did have to order it, it is originally for an Audi A4, and the part number is
N 905 342 03....Thanks for all the suggestions
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top