looking for photos of installed Monte Hospital dual front brake kit

mikeroten

True Classic
I'm super hesitant to bore a bigass hole in my firewall. I'm looking for photos of this kit installed, and ideas on how to do this cleanly.
 
it adds another bulkhead connector so the 2nd outlet on a dual front m/c can be used. from a safety perspective it's a great idea, but that's a pretty large hole. I already purchased the kit... the lines are nice quality, but the idea of drilling a 16mm hole in my firewall is disconcerting.
 
worst case scenario I'll use one of the lines to replace the super janky bypass line someone installed in my car many years ago.
 
I’ve done it. I’ll get you some pics; it’ll take a couple days. It’s involved, but not as big a deal as you might think.

John O.
 
it's not too big of a deal to do the work, I have the equipment, a tubing bender, and patience. it's more about drilling a hole in my firewall/bulkhead/scuttle.
I envision I'd put the new connector into the housing on the large flat area that's between the bolts, route the line up thru the top sheet metal of the box and into the MC.

question: was it worth it?

IMG_20200511_145051-X2.jpg
 
"Was it worth it?" is a great question and one I'll be looking forward to you telling us if you move ahead with the slightly tricky looking installation.

All I've done so far is to install the TMH booster bypass line. The lines are very easy to work with, you won't even necessarily need your tubing bender though it'll probably look a lot cleaner if you do use it.
 
E6A50369-48CA-47A2-AF81-214F08278A9C.jpeg

"Was it worth it?" is a great question and one I'll be looking forward to you telling us if you move ahead with the slightly tricky looking installation.

All I've done so far is to install the TMH booster bypass line. The lines are very easy to work with, you won't even necessarily need your tubing bender though it'll probably look a lot cleaner if you do use it.
"Was it worth it?" is a great question and one I'll be looking forward to you telling us if you move ahead with the slightly tricky looking installation.

All I've done so far is to install the TMH booster bypass line. The lines are very easy to work with, you won't even necessarily need your tubing bender though it'll probably look a lot cleaner if you do use it.
 
Was it worth it? Depends on what problem you’re trying to solve. My set up is the 3-hole X BMC, with the MH 037 pedal kit, plus Whoa Brakes Wilwood calipers for 14” wheels up front, so no going back to the bow-tie wheels. I re-plumbed just about the whole car. For me, it was a great set of individual projects that added up to completely renewed braking system that ...wait for it ...did not solve the car’s basic design flaw: the nose is too light, which is why the fronts tend to lock up in the wet.
 
Was it worth it? Depends on what problem you’re trying to solve. My set up is the 3-hole X BMC, with the MH 037 pedal kit, plus Whoa Brakes Wilwood calipers for 14” wheels up front, so no going back to the bow-tie wheels. I re-plumbed just about the whole car. For me, it was a great set of individual projects that added up to completely renewed braking system that ...wait for it ...did not solve the car’s basic design flaw: the nose is too light, which is why the fronts tend to lock up in the wet.

Ha! Premature front lock-up is an inherent issue, for sure. I even had it with my 1988 Toyota MR2, so it's not just the Scorpion.

I don't think TMH sells the 037 pedal box conversion any longer, wonder why? Did you find that mod to be of any significance?
 
Ha! Premature front lock-up is an inherent issue, for sure. I even had it with my 1988 Toyota MR2, so it's not just the Scorpion.

I don't think TMH sells the 037 pedal box conversion any longer, wonder why? Did you find that mod to be of any significance?

Since I’d never driven a Scorpion before mine and it was non-op when I bought it, I really don’t know! LOL!!!
 
interesting how you put a mounting tab and put it off to the side. I was thinking of doing this if there's room inside the pedal box itself for the line

drill%20location-L.jpg
 
back to the "was it worth it" comment -- I have mixed feelings about any time I have to put a drill to the body of a car. I don't have as much pain drilling the pedal box. for me, it's a safety upgrade. just like I had no problems with going to the 14" aftermarket wheels. better tires, better fitment, I'm cool with that. I just have a problem with things that can't be reversed.

i can see going thru the box at this point, turning the connector the other direction so the hole is smaller in the body, then routing the line out the top of the pedal box and over to the MC
 
Lancia MC is identical internally to the X1/9 (both are 3/4" diameter and the OEM internals are identical). Only difference, the x1/9 brake MC has two front brake caliper ports, one for RH, one for LH. The Lancia brake master has one front port as it was intended to route to the rear brake booster, then back from the rear booster to both front calipers. Back when the brake and clutch system was rebuilt for the 74' exxe, a Lancia MC was used as it has a single port outlet for the front making the addition of a pressure limiting valve easier. Both brake and clutch masters were sleeved with stainless steel and rebuilt using OEM Fiat seals. Both have been absolutely problem free to date.

Adding a two port master cylinder will do ZERO to prevent front brake lock up or increase safety as this is a tandem MC with separate front/rear brake cylinders and fluid feeds and fluid outlets. If one of the MC cylinders fail the one in tandem can continue to provide some system pressure.

The better solution is to apply what Lancia did on the series two front brake change. Delete the booster, increase the front rotor diameter to 250mm with it's matching 48mm piston brake caliper and move on.

Front brake lock up on any car of this vintage is not surprising, the x1/9 does this, as does nearly any car from this era. The engineering and design goals back then was to avoid rear brake lock up at nearly all cost as that can cause a spin during brake lock up in slippery conditions. This is why the majority of cars from that era had braking power biased to the front, not rear.

All this changed with the introduction of four wheel ABS. For those who have not been around cars of this vintage with no power assisted braked and designed in front brake lock-up, driver experience and learning is a must.


Bernice
 
Back
Top