Tom Ginefra
True Classic
Did you immediately check the bottom of your shoes, when you looked inside the box? Cause you definitely stepped in something!
Low oil pressure warning
- Thread starter lookforjoe
- Start date
lookforjoe
True Classic
Hey Brian - yes, I bought a new one to replace the original. I also have to get the connector -
- the harness on the new(er) motor had this cut off
lookforjoe
True Classic
Starter trigger wire terminal
Made one from a copper washer and a brass crimp connector, soldered together.
trigger wire fits over sleeve collar, spring connector pushed it in contact with ring, main starter terminal presses on reverse side of isolator connector, retained by an outer nut
BS connector (68073159AA) design from Chrysler/Fiat. ASKING for trouble, and no way to fix it with easily accessible parts.
Pulled & the flywheel, cleaned the bolts (mine showed evidence of oil seeping around some of the heads, re thread-sealed them, and installed the flywheel on the new motor. Then I realized I couldn't find the torque spec for that. It's NOT listed in the main spec sheet in the manual, even though they list the pressure plate, etc, on that page.
Manual is not properly searchable on my phone. Found it searching the PDF on my laptop under
Flywheel, Installation :11 ft/lbs, then 40º
Pressure Plate: 12 ft/lbs
Made one from a copper washer and a brass crimp connector, soldered together.
trigger wire fits over sleeve collar, spring connector pushed it in contact with ring, main starter terminal presses on reverse side of isolator connector, retained by an outer nut
BS connector (68073159AA) design from Chrysler/Fiat. ASKING for trouble, and no way to fix it with easily accessible parts.
Pulled & the flywheel, cleaned the bolts (mine showed evidence of oil seeping around some of the heads, re thread-sealed them, and installed the flywheel on the new motor. Then I realized I couldn't find the torque spec for that. It's NOT listed in the main spec sheet in the manual, even though they list the pressure plate, etc, on that page.
Manual is not properly searchable on my phone. Found it searching the PDF on my laptop under
Flywheel, Installation :11 ft/lbs, then 40º
Pressure Plate: 12 ft/lbs
Attachments
Last edited:
lookforjoe
True Classic
Got the trans seal replaced, shift gate mechanism reinstalled, flywheel & clutch torqued, trans reattached to engine, starter bolted up & wired.
Paid stupid money for the gear oil - $30 a quart from the dealer. Need it now, so no time to shop around.
Mopar trans casing sealant. Maybe I can use it up on the Honda....
Paid stupid money for the gear oil - $30 a quart from the dealer. Need it now, so no time to shop around.
Mopar trans casing sealant. Maybe I can use it up on the Honda....
lookforjoe
True Classic
Took the old engine apart today to make room. Bagged all the parts & put them outside my garage, not room inside for all this. Mainly, I wanted to see how the main bearings looked. Definite wear markings. Crank is scored also. Rod bearings are fine.
Carrier side
Block side
Pistons
head with multi air mechanism
Looks like I will have to transfer the old harness & CPS. Can't find a way to open the harness ECU connector without damaging it.
Carrier side
Block side
Pistons
head with multi air mechanism
Looks like I will have to transfer the old harness & CPS. Can't find a way to open the harness ECU connector without damaging it.
Last edited:
kmead
Old enough to know better
So what is it that caused the oil pressure to fail?
Clearly evidence on the bearings you show, did it also affect the Multiair system or is there no way to know? Were the crank bearings (and crank) the only areas where it was affected?
They make those engines here in Michigan, unfortunate yours was a bad one.
Clearly evidence on the bearings you show, did it also affect the Multiair system or is there no way to know? Were the crank bearings (and crank) the only areas where it was affected?
They make those engines here in Michigan, unfortunate yours was a bad one.
lookforjoe
True Classic
Don’t know. Dealer says oil pump is not common failure. Complete lack of oil or wrong viscosity is their estimation, which is nonsense. The only evidence of wear is on the mains. Rods & Upper engine, cam journals all look normal.
Searching online I found that 2012’s can suffer from a starter grounding issue that causes power to ground through the crank, damaging the bearings (!?). Since we had that no-start condition that I thought was clutch switch related shortly before noise began, perhaps that is indeed the cause. Fiat’s fix for that is new starter motor bolts. The people that pursued a claim for engine wear had to fight for satisfaction.
MikeHynes
True Classic
Did you look at the oil pump? Doesn't look like any bearings "spun". I don't think that the wear the mains show would cause a low pressure reading.
lookforjoe
True Classic
No, they definitely didn't spin. There is significant wear, a couple look like they've been 'scooped out' and the crank is scored. The knock was very apparent. The oil pump is in the housing on the end of the crank, and I can't get the crank gear off, until that happens I can't dismantle the pump. The rod bearings look perfectly normal. So, either the pump is NG (at low rpm), or the abnormal wear was causing the pressure loss, I dunno. Doesn't really matter I'm not putting it back together ever.
lookforjoe
True Classic
Swapped over the engine harness, fitted the crank sensor up front, separated out the oil temp sender harness, I'll put it in the drain since I have no where else to mount it. I'm not swapping the pan, its a PITA.
Engine is ready to go back at this point
Engine is ready to go back at this point
lookforjoe
True Classic
Put the engine back in today. WIth the hoist I used, I had to install the left mount, then support the engine, then install the right mount.
Like everything else, Fiat doesn't seal the AC line seals, they want you to buy the entire line. This really infuriates me. I think I may need to find out who I can write to to complain. I wonder if it was Fiat or Chrysler's decision? ****ing bean counters. I
Manivertor in & torqued to spec with new gaskets & lock nuts. Couldn't remember where all the brackets went, that took a little while to figure out.
temp sender in drain plug position.
Put new front brake rotors & pads in while I had it apart
Got the rad & AC condensor installed, fluids added. Primed it, & ran it up to operating temp, checked trans operation. Sounds good, normal, that is. Just have to deal with one clamp seeping & charge the AC. Then I can put the nose back on.
Like everything else, Fiat doesn't seal the AC line seals, they want you to buy the entire line. This really infuriates me. I think I may need to find out who I can write to to complain. I wonder if it was Fiat or Chrysler's decision? ****ing bean counters. I
Manivertor in & torqued to spec with new gaskets & lock nuts. Couldn't remember where all the brackets went, that took a little while to figure out.
temp sender in drain plug position.
Put new front brake rotors & pads in while I had it apart
Got the rad & AC condensor installed, fluids added. Primed it, & ran it up to operating temp, checked trans operation. Sounds good, normal, that is. Just have to deal with one clamp seeping & charge the AC. Then I can put the nose back on.
lookforjoe
True Classic
Drove it around on Sunday, went to the shop I have bartered with in the past, and drew down the AC system, and recharged with approx 1lb R134a, and 1.5 oz refrigerant oil. Runs well, and sounds great. No knocks Wife is happy to have her 500 sounding & running as it should.
Wife is happy to have her 500 sounding & running as it should.
Drove it around on Sunday, went to the shop I have bartered with in the past, and drew down the AC system, and recharged with approx 1lb R134a, and 1.5 oz refrigerant oil. Runs well, and sounds great. No knocks
Way to go Hussein! You are really amazing. I would have held a Viking funeral for the car, then shot it full of holes and then burned it again for good measure.
lookforjoe
True Classic
Way to go Hussein! You are really amazing. I would have held a Viking funeral for the car, then shot it full of holes and then burned it again for good measure.
Thank you, Jim. I have to admit to thoughts along those lines when it was established the motor needed overhaul/replacement. I glad I was able to do the work, and it came out to less than 1500 in total for parts. My wife is very happy, so that’s the main thing.
Tom Ginefra
True Classic
I am impressed by everything you do!
kmead
Old enough to know better
Wife is happy. Oh yes thats the main thing all right.
Congrats on completing a difficult puzzle with more than a few sharp upsets along the way.
Modern cars are not nice things to work on without the parts counter just across the garage given how everything is proprietary (regardless of who makes the car).
Congrats on completing a difficult puzzle with more than a few sharp upsets along the way.
Modern cars are not nice things to work on without the parts counter just across the garage given how everything is proprietary (regardless of who makes the car).
Last edited:
lookforjoe
True Classic
The interior lights haven't worked since I did the motor. Fuse blows immediately if replaced. Searching online I found this:
https://www.fiat500owners.com/threads/interior-light-fuse-blowing.38666/
Apparently the oil temp/viscosity sender is wired to the same circuit, even though it's not listed in the fuse diagram. Talk about sending ppl on a wild goose chase. I went nuts going through all the interior lights/grounds trying to figure out which one could have had a dead short.
https://www.fiat500owners.com/threads/interior-light-fuse-blowing.38666/
Apparently the oil temp/viscosity sender is wired to the same circuit, even though it's not listed in the fuse diagram. Talk about sending ppl on a wild goose chase. I went nuts going through all the interior lights/grounds trying to figure out which one could have had a dead short.