Marelli advance curve figures

well the one in the add doesnt look as a good deal, you will need a pickup, rotor, cap, electronic box and coil..try to search with the key marelli SM810AX ..they arent as common in the market as the SE100xx models, (the later model that come with the elecronic box fitted on the distributor body: these equipped a variety of fiat\lancia\innocenti models 86 - 93)..
the SM810AX was oem on the earlies lancia delta 1300

another option is a cheaper unit branded marelli, but made outside italy (china? turkey?) that were (are?) listed on ebay USA, on this forum there is a long thread about this part: search on the forum for "cheap chinese ei distributor"
 
I picked up this NOS S155AX from DGRally on eBay, not the most cost effective solution but my thinking is I'd like to keep the car true to original as possible.



I tore it down, lubed and checked everything then installed it. A tight fit with the top entry cap, the access panel has to be fitted with the cap removed but there is a fingers width of space between it and the cap.



I timed it to 7~8deg static as before and checked the advance, it hits max. advance at 4500 rpm and was spot on at 28deg (35 total). I also noted a steady TDC marker under the strobe, no jumping about. The car idles better, a constant rpm and pulls better low down. There is a touch more kick when the secondary choke opens, not huge but it's there. Top end power seems unaffected, I'm going to fit a lumenition ignition system to round things off.
 
that's neat!
it's a 1300 w\carb, correct? what carburetor is fitted ? 7°static advance is the setting as per manual ?
 
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Yes, 1300 with 32DMTR carb, main jets are one size larger 115/120 and secondary idle is same as pre-1978 @ 70. Static advance in the manual is 5 but the car doesn’t like it and is happier at 7/8deg.
 
did you tested the car with more advance like 10 or more degrees? my car has the same motor (1290 w\DMTR 32 carb), the manual says 10° set, but with some more then 10 the low end is better..
 
are you sure that the 5° data is ok for your motor? as far as i know 5° it is for the 1500 EFI usa..the carbed 1300 cars should be all 10°
 
Yes, owners manual and Haynes say 5deg for post 1976 cars. Pre 1976 is 10. But it does run better at 7/8, I’ll try 10, not sure where there was a change...
 
Yes. The only other change seems to be a secondary idle jet change for the later models. I’ll try it.
 
Ok tried 10deg, idle is very smooth, pickup from low revs through midrange is a touch better, car feels very tractable for a 1300. However it doesn’t zing around to the red line as I would expect, sure, it revs well but it gets to 5~5.5k rpm and there’s a feeling there’s no point on hanging on to the gear, just change up. It could be the cars tacho is out IE: I’m really hitting 6k+, I’ve not checked it or the better midrange punch gives a feeling the top end power has softened out, I don’t think so but then I’m not sure or maybe I should just wring its neck more!
 
well it sounds similar to my experience: more static adv: better low end but stalling too early @higher revs..

centrifugal advance is around 28° average so looks like 38° total (stat+centrifugal) is to much for this motor (at least when burning todays petrol).

so probably (taking account of Don's experience that setted his ducellier 20°stat - 30° max@3500, but with highly tuned motor) we should try 12 - 14°stat. 32-35° max @3800? this to get a motor that pulls nicely at low and revs freely to the top rpms

unfortunatelly this does involve limiting centrifugal travel that is a bit tricky..
 
Lumenition ignition arrived today, hopefully it will fit ok and I can move on to other things!
 
Why is nothing ever easy! Tried to fit the Lumenition ignition today but the distributor fitting kit doesn't fit. It's the correct kit but the supplied in-kit mounting plate fouls on the brass points pivot....which is riveted to the distributor base plate. It also fouls the chopper disk. I'm just not having much luck with ignition systems!





I'd like to retain the ability to retro fit points, I can only think of two options 1) make a complete new plate for the distributor without the pivot 2) Drill the bottom of the pivot out to detach it and then drill and tap a thread in the bottom so it can be refitted.
 
NEG said:
Why is nothing ever easy! Tried to fit the Lumenition ignition today but the distributor fitting kit doesn't fit. It's the correct kit but the supplied in-kit mounting plate fouls on the brass points pivot....which is riveted to the distributor base plate. It also fouls the chopper disk. I'm just not having much luck with ignition systems!





I'd like to retain the ability to retro fit points, I can only think of two options 1) make a complete new plate for the distributor without the pivot 2) Drill the bottom of the pivot out to detach it and then drill and tap a thread in the bottom so it can be refitted.
Click to expand...

I would get a second plate fully set up for points to carry in the boot and modify one for the Lumenation kit. Definitely no fun, surprising the instructions don’t include a best practice for this distributor type.
 
NEG said:
1) make a complete new plate for the distributor without the pivot 2) Drill the bottom of the pivot out to detach it and then drill and tap a thread in the bottom so it can be refitted.
Click to expand...
Not sure 2) will be possible as the pivot / hole will have insufficient metal to be threaded together? Making a new plate would be best bet, you wouldn't need the condenser and inspection cut-outs, and as there'll be no load on the plate with the optical sensor setup, you could likely get away with aluminium to make it easy, just be careful tapping the mounting holes, maybe use some thread lock on those?
 
Thanks guys, I think I’ll go down the route of a new plate made out of 2mm aluminium. As a back up I’ve put a call into H&H Ignition Solutions, they may have something suitable off the shelf....
 
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