Melted Piston.

[dcioccarelli]

When I put a euro head on my FI X1/9 I simply retained the FI thermostat housing that already had provision for the CTS.

Cheers,
Dom.

 

[dcioccarelli]

Hello Dom

Do you mean just hardware mods to the engine internal components that differ from stock US 1500?

Pretty much everything you have done since the event that sparked the rebuild. I understand you are using a Tipo head and a LH II ECU for example, but sounds like you have done a host of other mods. Did you retain the idle control you had added to the car previously or does the LH II take care of that?

Cheers,
Dom.

 

[lookforjoe]

When I put a euro head on my FI X1/9 I simply retained the FI thermostat housing that already had provision for the CTS.

Cheers, Dom.

I had replaced that some time ago

 

[lookforjoe]

Pretty much everything you have done since the event that sparked the rebuild. I understand you are using a Tipo head and a LH II ECU for example, but sounds like you have done a host of other mods. Did you retain the idle control you had added to the car previously or does the LH II take care of that?

Cheers, Dom.

Hello Dom

LH2.2 includes idle control, with AC adaptation also.

I can't remember all the minutiae within the motor - essentially 1600 crank, oversize pistons 86.96mm, for 87mm bore (flycuts increased for 37mm intake valves) & scat rods. This should cover the rest - I'll add to it if I miss something to keep it all in one post. I'll add links to specific posts that show the referenced item.

True TDC markers verified.

Compression Calculations Sitting at 10.7:1. Tipo head with 39mm intake valves/ 33mm exhaust valves installed (EDIT: exhaust valves are 31.5mm). Heater port added to front, EGR port welded over, combustion chambers increased to give 34ml volume. Isky performance valve springs.
T/stat housing adaptor made to go from Tipo flange to X1/9 housing.
Adaptor flange for heater/branch pipe to bring return elbow hose back into alignment.

Branch pipe also 'squeezed" for clearance of Allison Headers (previously installed). Heat shield between headers & intake made from Volvo '00 V70 turbo upper heat shield.

T/Belt Tensioner base plate slotted to allow coolant drain away from bearing

Oil pressure sender (gauge/light) relocated to lower early style port.

Dogbone re-bushed with Volvo torque mount bushings

Snail mount bushing replaced.

Front upper timing cover shaved to clear revised heater feed port.

Using shaved cam box & 35/75 cam previously bought from Bayless for last setup.

Replaced Cam with D-223

Miller's Mule adjustable cam gear.

VW starter relay kit installed.

Volvo LH2.2 (240) wiring harness cut down to align with X1/9 component placement in engine bay & installed. Volvo harness grommet fits existing firewall opening without modification. Uses stock X1/9 FI throttle switch, replace CTS with Bosch 026 (Volvo 1332396)

Volvo LH2.4 Conversion, requires crank trigger wheel.

Custom fuel rail & modified lower runners for 0 280 155 742 16lb injectors (from Mercedes application) EDIT: Using 200cc injectors 0 280 155 746 from Volvo 850 NA EDIT: 24lb 0 280 155 832 injectors installed with LH2.4. EDIT Custom Fuel Rail v.2

Custom Fuel feed & return using Volvo '98 V70 Fuel Pressure Regulator pod & modified lines with quick release fittings. Fuel return side now contained on left side of compartment.

Volvo ('85-88) 554 ECU & 007 MAF installed, custom ECU base bracket required.

Volvo ('89- 240) heated O2 sensor (wire harness is long enough to route around left side of frame) installed pre cat.

Custom intake ("J") pipe with silicone couplers for MAF & plenum fitting (previously made)

Custom IAC installation using a mix of Volvo hoses (see CIS MOD)

Allison Ignition with Bosch copper plugs * .045" (previously installed, see thread) I may build an EZK ignition, as the Volvo setup includes knock sensing, ignition timing control based on inputs from AC & coolant temp (advances timing at idle when hot to keep EGT's down), monitors engine load, etc.

EDIT: Volvo EZK 117 installed with custom distributor

Serpentine Belt mod for AC setup (see thread)

Revised Oil Cooler mounting (previously added system using Volvo parts)

Exhaust compartment heat insulation replaced with DynaMat/Liner, stock shield modified to allow air passage on left side for oil cooler.

Rear control arms re-bushed. KYB struts installed. Rear brake hoses replaced. eBrake cables replaced, all pivot/pulleys cleaned & greased.

Clutch pivot arm refurbished, brass top hat bush fabricated for pivot in bell housing. New T/O bearing installed.

April 2016: Converted to LH2.4 and EZK116K 6842115 & 3517402 ECUs

3" Inlet piping & revised IAC routing

Revised Branch pipe for increased header clearance

Wiseco pistons installed after HG failure & Mahle piston damage

Wasted Spark Mod for EZK116

Higher flow electric cooling fans

 

[lookforjoe]

Yesterday's cold start & warmup cycle was vastly improved (with 554 ECU & new CTS). I took a short local drive to see how it feel through the gears & under light/medium load.
What I found was that the coolant temp increased relative to load, quickly increasing to the 3/4 zone(!). Having toasted one motor, I'm very leery of letting my nice new engine temps get anywhere near the red zone :sad: I drove it very gently back home.

Since the main difference since driving the day before, was resetting the timing, I retarded it again.
It's difficult to be certain where the gear notch is, since the modified pulley lip sits about flush with the marker.
So, I set the crank to TDC & removed the marker & ground the three tips back, being careful not to alter their relative center points. Now it is a little easier to see the crank notch through the marker gaps. On a side note, I also shimmed the AC compressor, and the belt now rides nicely in from the edge, visible in the pic)

Setting timing

I tried checking the timing though the wheel arch as well, but still can't get a direct line with the gun. So, I went with the notch slightly CW of the 10º marker, and although it negatively impacts idle quality, under load the coolant temp no longer creeps upward.

I can't use the flywheel side; with the T/stat housing moved back with the adaptor to the Tipo head, the window is no longer visible.

I can only assume that the much higher compression is having a significant impact on the amount of timing I can run. My AFR's were in the low 14's under light load, which is definitely not lean.

Driving it around afterward, the temps stayed in the middle as it was before I had moved the timing.

 

[Dan Sarandrea (Phila)]

I can't use the flywheel side; with the T/stat housing moved back with the adaptor to the Tipo head, the window is no longer visible.

As long as you can manually turn over the engine, position the marks, and visually verify that TDC, 5, and 10 thru the bell housing window are the same as on your pulley pointer, I think you can be confident of your timing adjustments.

Keep going!:clap:

Are you thinking about dynoing the car once you've completed this round of mods?

 

[lookforjoe]

As long as you can manually turn over the engine, position the marks, and visually verify that TDC, 5, and 10 thru the bell housing window are the same as on your pulley pointer, I think you can be confident of your timing adjustments.

Keep going!:clap:

Are you thinking about dynoing the car once you've completed this round of mods?

Thanks, Dan

Yes, I will dyno once the motor is run in. I can't remember how it felt a year ago. Haven't trounced on it yet, but I have done a couple 5k - shifts in 2nd -3rd, it feels very nice.

I did verify that before I put the engine in the car - checked the flywheel marker against the bell housing, and with the crank gear notch & then with the modified pulley - so I know my markers are accurate. The problem is that the bell housing window is no longer an option.

I may still retard the timing another degree or so , it pinged some today going up a hill in 2nd. Ambient temps on the high 80's last few days don't help.

I did advance the cam timing back to my original setting (raised idle vac to 14inHg * 800rpm), and fattened up the fuel mixture (set MAF output voltage to high end of scale - 2.8v); still have a good sweep on the narrowband O2, and the wide-band sweeps in the 14's. Seems better, but still running a tick over normal. I did get more air out the rad bleeder, so maybe that is also contributing.

I am also wondering if I need to consider an octane booster.

Volvo 554 ECU in place, with dynaliner to replace the old firewall padding.

engine bay

 

[Dan Sarandrea (Phila)]

I may still retard the timing another degree or so , it pinged some today going up a hill in 2nd. Ambient temps on the high 80's last few days don't help.

How does your current setup handle spark advance/retard under load and rpm?

(The original distributor had the vac advance connected to ported vacuum, so low vacuum (load) would result in less advance, which is of course what you want to control ping.)

 

[lookforjoe]

How does your current setup handle spark advance/retard under load and rpm?

(The original distributor had the vac advance connected to ported vacuum, so low vacuum (load) would result in less advance, which is of course what you want to control ping.)

I'm using the Allison Ignition conversion - I have no idea how it handles advance/retard under load :sad: - which is why I seriously considering switching to the Volvo EZK setup - it takes a load signal from the fuel ECU, a knock sensor, a signal from the AC, and the cooling system to modulate timing based on immediate requirements. I think given the higher compression & other changes to the motor, I would be much safer with a more intelligent ignition system. The tricky part is finding a 85-88 (or 89 turbo) ignition ECU from a Volvo 740 series.

 

[Dan Sarandrea (Phila)]

Just took a quick glance at the product description and pdf of instructions, and it seems that the unit is rpm-only advance with no provision for it to "know" what load the engine is under.

Specs are 33-35 degrees at 3,000 to 3,200 RPM. There is no mention whatsoever of an "idle" (800-900 RPM) timing spec.

Leads me to believe that the proper way to set ignition timing with this unit is to manually calculate (I guess a degree wheel on the crank pulley while out of the car would have been the easy way to do this) where 33-35 degrees are on your engine pulley and use a whizzer or hacksaw blade to make a notch. Once you have this notch, connect a non-adjustable timing light, have a helper run it up to 3000-3200, and then line up the zero pointer with your newly made notch.

 

[lookforjoe]

Just took a quick glance at the product description and pdf of instructions, and it seems that the unit is rpm-only advance with no provision for it to "know" what load the engine is under.

Specs are 33-35 degrees at 3,000 to 3,200 RPM. There is no mention whatsoever of an "idle" (800-900 RPM) timing spec.

Leads me to believe that the proper way to set ignition timing with this unit is to manually calculate (I guess a degree wheel on the crank pulley while out of the car would have been the easy way to do this) where 33-35 degrees are on your engine pulley and use a whizzer or hacksaw blade to make a notch. Once you have this notch, connect a non-adjustable timing light, have a helper run it up to 3000-3200, and then line up the zero pointer with your newly made notch.

Yes, adding 30º-35º markers would be the way to go. I've just been backing the base timing off a degree or so at a time, trying to eliminate the knock. Running about 7ºBTDC now. Still had some knock uphill in 1st -2nd.

I'm going to build a modified Fiat/Volvo distributor so I can run EZK117 from the Volvo 700 series 85-88). I'll feel much happier with knock control & some idle advance when the fan kicks in. Reference Threads on TurboBricks: LH2.2 - EZK117 240 w/EZK117

My "kit"

Stripped Fiat & Volvo distributors. I'll cut the Fiat dist. off just above the top of the neck, and cut the Volvo one off just below. Once that's done, I can determine the proper length of the shaft & splice the upper Volvo section with the lower Fiat section.

 

[Dan Sarandrea (Phila)]

OK, but just one question...

Will the resultant product be a Volvat or a Fiavo?

 

[lookforjoe]

OK, but just one question...

Will the resultant product be a Volvat or a Fiavo?

Neither. It's a Bertone.

All the components I'm working with are still Bosch :rolleyes2:

Installed a new pressure gauge on the rail, and an adjustable pressure regulator. Raised the base pressure to about 50 psi, about 42 under idle vacuum.

Leaned out the MAF adjustment to 1.86v (had risen to 2.5v due to increase in regulated pressure). AFR's under part load are definitely better. On the way to work, I had AFR's in the 16's under load - not good at all, now they are low 14's. Coolant temps are lower as a result.

I still have not done any WOT pulls to see if full load enrichment is properly functional. That will have to wait until it's broken in.

 

[kmead]

It is an endearment, not a disparagement

"Will the resultant product be a Volvat or a Fiavo?"

Just to be clear, we are all suitably impressed with your ability, ingenuity and vision in using alternative parts on your car.

How you envision what you want your car to do, how you map out what to do to get there and how you solve all the problems in between never cease to amaze and impress.

All the best

Karl

 

[jvandyke]

"Will the resultant product be a Volvat or a Fiavo?"

Just to be clear, we are all suitably impressed with your ability, ingenuity and vision in using alternative parts on your car.

How you envision what you want your car to do, how you map out what to do to get there and how you solve all the problems in between never cease to amaze and impress.

All the best

Karl

:nod:

 

[petex19]

:thumbsup:

I'll second that!!!
I also built a 1600 stroker with incredible amounts of help from so many members but "lookforjoe" you have seriously taken the build to a different level. I hope you are happy with the results for the countless hours you have put into your build.

Congrats :clap:

 

[lookforjoe]

Thanks, guys.

I didn't take Dan's remark as a negative - I should have added a more emphatic emoticon!

Car seems to be settling in - coolant temps are more appropriate - I have had to continue to bleed air out - yesterday I finally raised the front & ran it a little while bleeding the rad vent. It did seem that the t/stat was hanging until the temp was over 190º before opening, but that seems OK now. I'm pretty sure I used a new T/stat, but I honestly can't remember now.

 

[Dan Sarandrea (Phila)]

I didn't take Dan's remark as a negative -

And it was not intended to be negative! :innocent: Just a bit of word-play humor.

 

[lookforjoe]

Now I really need a six speed trans, it runs & pulls strongly - it would be nice to be able to cruise at 80ish without running close to 4K rpm I never noticed how much gearbox rattle there is at idle, now that I have a smooth and consistent idle around 800 rpm I can really hear it with the clutch out.

 

[lookforjoe]

About 300 miles on it now. Can't really thrash it yet, 'cos I have engine management issues. AFR's are great under light load & cruise/idle conditions, but definitely too lean if I try to get on it, so really haven't.

I've tried raising fuel pressure, fattening up the MAF output, but it's not really helping. I don't seem to have any acceleration enrichment. All the MAF functions check out.

I think I need to get injectors that are matched to the MAF/ECU - which means 20lb/200cc, instead of the 17lb ones I installed.

Volvo used composite 200cc (0280155746, yellows) on the NA V70, and 230cc (0280155702 blacks) on the some 960/V90 models. I'm going to see if I can locate some locally to try. I don't want to go too large, since that will require dropping the base pressure, which I believe can have a negative impact on fuel atomization. I have some 300cc (0280155759 reds) injectors, but that would mean dropping base pressure at least 20% to get them in the ballpark. I will need 1/2" spacers for the fuel rail, since all these injectors are longer.