Melted Piston.

Plugging away slowly. Hoping for some better weather so I can get the motor back out to the garage...

Fitted the modified Honda fuel rail. AN-06 inlet fitting.

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finished up the wiring harness to the injectors

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Put together the body side fuel harness with remote FPR & pulse damper - have to get to the car to work the revised return line & fuel pump/ filter setup. 5/16 quick connect fittings.

X19-LH22-00045.jpg
 
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Kudos

Hussein,

I just read up all of your work since fall and what a great enthusiasm challenging work you have done!

I lift my hat to all of your work and knowledge .... I'm not deep like you but I can recognise all of your work and determination.

Kudos Hussein! I think it's important to promote work like this and appreciate all the sharing.

I wish all of you work will be successful
 
Thanks, guys.

Runner Porting....

SteveC

Steve, did you determine an appropriate change to the underside of the runner for better flow? Couldn't find your post where you mentioned this.

I still have mine apart enough that I can cut & enlarge the lower runners if you have some guiding info... :)
 
Hussein,

with some luck I will be picking up Byron's (Halt's) lower inlet runners later today (Monday here in WA) which have been welded on the underside, and I'm happy to post pics and take some port moulds of the stock and modified runners so you can duplicate them...

I think this is a 'stage one' improvement to the stock manifolding that will suit the available head flow you now have.

I'm off to work Tuesday morning so it might have to wait for a week until I get back.

SteveC
 
LH 2.2 harness fitted to compartment. Fuel feed & return also fitted. Getting closer to engine install :)

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Fuel delivery mods

New pump, return line with quick connect fitting (fitting with blue button)

X19-LH22-00053.jpg


Fuel Pressure Regulator, 3bar
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Filter with QC fittings
X19-LH22-00036.jpg
 
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Hussein,

with some luck I will be picking up Byron's (Halt's) lower inlet runners later today (Monday here in WA) which have been welded on the underside, and I'm happy to post pics and take some port moulds of the stock and modified runners so you can duplicate them...

I think this is a 'stage one' improvement to the stock manifolding that will suit the available head flow you now have.

I'm off to work Tuesday morning so it might have to wait for a week until I get back.

SteveC

Hey Steve, any pics for me to reference on the lower runners yet? :)
 
Finally have the driveway partially restored - town is doing a major drainage & curb/sidewalk/pavement renewal in out neighborhood, so even if it hadn't been extraordinarily wet & cold this year, I wouldn't have been able to get the motor back in the X without laying in dirt & gravel.

So, X is out in the 'driveway' and hoping to get the motor back in the chassis tomorrow, which will still leave much work before its actually drivable/running, but at least a step in the right direction. I was going to try and address some of the rust in the strut tower area & inner fender wells, but at this point, I'd really like to have it back on the road by the end of July...

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This side will be excavated shortly - there is a massive catch basin going in the intersection, then they will finish the curbs, put the top soil back, and eventually the pavement

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Changed my mind about rushing to get the engine in - also the guide bush I got for the shifter arm through the bell housing is a real sloppy fit, so I'm going to have a bronze sleeve machined instead. Decided I also better change the input shaft seal so as not to jinx myself.

Fabricating a copper heater pipe to replace the long return line in the engine bay. This way I will only have a short section underneath, and another couple feet max up top to the water branch pipe.
Compression olives are soldered to the pipe ends, to simulate the normal flared ends normally used.

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pipes

that looks great.
hopefully the elements will be kinder than an in house install.
the other thing I thought about was how fragile the copper, and (welds) solder and the fray of stuff we run over.
mikemo90*aol.com
 
Heat dissipation

Are you sure you want to use copper pipe for the heater line?
Copper has really good heat dissipation qualities, so your heat might not be so warm as it would with rubber hoses. I know the center column uses steel tubes but the dissipation in those would be much less than copper plus they are covered by the channel shield.
 
Pipe joints are silver soldered, not lead/plumber's solder. I've used copper piping on my Volvo for the breather/vent system for years without any issues. As long as the piping is properly isolated & supported to minimize any potential stress, it seems to hold up fine :)

Pipe will clamped to firewall to prevent movement. The lower section that drops below frame rail will be sleeved to prevent damage from debris, etc.

Not really concerned about the heat dissipation, the pipe will be sleeved as much as possible.
 
Decided to leave the intake runners & ports alone - it's taking me long enough to get the car ready to put the engine back in.

I decided to deal with as much of the rust in the strut towers, drainage pockets and wheel well areas as possible while it's all readily accessible.

Found a few areas where the water was entering the spare wheel well through rust pockets. I've got all the rust dealt with in the bay - just have the wheel well / strut tower seams to finish up, which I can do once the 3M rocker & body schutz are here.

At this point, I hope to begin the drivetrain install by early next week. :excited:
 
What we need is a new best buddy forum member who just happens to work at a place that does aluminum castings, and has no problem with the employees staying late working on their own projects:excited::)
 
Do we know someone like that?

:whistle:

I could imagine a set of patterns that could be made if someone shared a urethane casting of the finished parts...

Sand casting might work but an investment cast would be ideal
 
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