Need solution for missing captive nut to hold center console on

think jedi

think jedi

True Classic
When I took the car apart 3 years ago, the nut that holds the back end of the center console down disappeared. So now all I have is a little empty rectangle stamped in the sheet metal. I looked through my screw clips, and nothing looks like it will work. Anyone out there run into this or have any ideas what I can use here?

tJ

Screen Shot 2020-06-30 at 4.44.33 PM.png
 
Weld in nuts tend to cause cracks where they are welded in place due to heat-stress fractures. This is why welded in nuts tend to bust off over time when stresses.

Suggest Rivinuts:
www.aircraftspruce.com

RIVNUTS NAS1329A06-120 | Aircraft Spruce

RIVNUTS NAS1329A06-120 The Rivet Nut is a one-piece internally threaded and counterbored tubular aluminum rivet that can be pulled up or headed while working entirely from one side, forming a bulge or head on the blind s...
www.aircraftspruce.com www.aircraftspruce.com

Have a Pile of these (10-32 thread) , if you need a few, I'll send you some These fit good in those square holes.

These are the commercial variety:

10-32 Ribbed Blind Rivet Nut, Large Flange

www.jhpfasteners.com www.jhpfasteners.com

Check the inner edge length of the square hole to determine what size rivnut will do.


Bernice
 
I'll probably give the rivnuts a try. I've used them on other cars before. I'm not sure if I have the install tool anymore...will have to hunt for it. Thanks for the ideas!

tJ
 
think jedi said:
I'll probably give the rivnuts a try. I've used them on other cars before. I'm not sure if I have the install tool anymore...will have to hunt for it. Thanks for the ideas!

tJ
Click to expand...
If you can't find your tool : Harbor Freight sells a cheap set with the tool and an assortment oh nuts. I have used it in several non critical spots on my cars. Works well enough for areas like your console mount.
 
I'm not familiar with the use of blindnuts. I like the concept but still have interrogations. If they are in place for a long time and the bolt is corroded, won't the whole assembly could easily become loose when you try to remove it?
 
DanielForest said:
I'm not familiar with the use of blindnuts. I like the concept but still have interrogations. If they are in place for a long time and the bolt is corroded, won't the whole assembly could easily become loose when you try to remove it?
Click to expand...
Even without time and corrosion these nuts can spin if you don't get them installed well. Since the material is pretty soft, you can get failed rivnuts out easier than a failed welded nut. You just drill the exposed face. I had to remove and replace a couple of the HF nuts, probably due to inexperience on my my part and the cheap nature of the HF tool. With a real tool like Bernice mentioned, I am sure installations have more success.

Also, when creating the hole for the rivnut, the "actual" instructions tell you to file a slot or two on the edge of the hole. When you crush the nut, the soft metal will squish into that slot and provide some anti-spin tension. The HF instructions do not provide that detail. I believe think jedi's square hole would provide lots of anti-spin tension with a properly sized rivnut.
 
The original design utilized cage nuts. These are still commonly available from places like McMaster Carr, Grainger etc..
1593611517651.png
 
M6 cage nuts are an industry standard item. Ones used in the x1/20 are made of really soft steel. The threads rip out easy and cross thread easy. Already encountered several with stripped out, cross threaded cage nuts. Careful clean up with a GOOD tap made them sort of usable again.. Will need to get a supply of these soon. Current re-assembly procedure is to toss out what ever M6 bolt that came out of the cage nut and replace it with an M6 stainless steel bolt of the same length with anti-seize.

The Rivnut installer to get is a FSI model D100, these appear on eBay. They also pull cherry and pop rivets with ease.
Low-buck tools tend to be high-buck tools (damaged work and cause of frustration) in real world usage and time.
The old, "Penny wise, Pound foolish" applies here.

Model D100 on the left, Huck style rivnut puller on the right.
FSI_D100 & Rivnutter.JPG


FSI_D100_Mil rivet install.JPG


How to re-fill with oil and air purge video. After this video from FSI was posted on YouTube,
these D100 rivnut tools got desirable. Regardless, these work really GOOD.

Original aluminum rivnuts were developed by BF goodrich as part of the air bladder de-icing system.
They needed a durable, replaceable threading system for sheet metal. Since then, Rivnuts have become
a widely used means to put a threaded nut into sheet metal.

The other way to achieve good threads in sheet metal are nut plates, these are more complex and difficult
to install, but have significant advantages over rivnut style thread inserts. The aircraft and similar industries
do not use welded in place nuts.. with very good reasons why.


Metric kit is a Avdel, these work OK, but no where as good as the D100.
Avdel Rivnut metric.JPG


Bernice
 
So, if I intend to put fender flares with a bolt-on feature, should the rivnuts be a good option to install stainless bolts into a captive nut?

I think I will start looking for a D100 tool!
 
Everyone, thanks for your help. Cage nuts is what I was thinking might be a good solution (just couldn't remember what they were called). We use those on the racks in our server room, so I could pilfer a few if I really need them. But I went in the toolbox and dig around and found an unused HF blind nut setter with assorted sizes of rivnuts. The 10/24 that came with the tool is too small, but the 1/4" is about right. A little big, so I'll have to file around the hole a little bit, but that's no problem. I'd rather it be good and snug than loose. I'm going to give that tool a try.

Will post my success or failure here in the next day or two.

tJ
 
Well, my HF rivnut setter did the trick. I can now bolt down my center console. I also put a new rivnut in the rectangular hole where the rear deck lid release used to bolt in.

Thanks all!

tJ
 
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