New 1500 build + new 5 speed install

kmead said:
Does the T have a leg with a smaller orifice on one leg for the return line? Or are you dealing with the pressure/volume drop with a calibrated orifice in another way?

Looking good.

I have a chunk of railroad rail to hammer and beat on metal parts. A piece of I beam would be nice due to the sharp edge from the cutoff. I will have to look for a chunk, thanks for the tip.
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T legs are all three 5/16” meant to split the single feed from the pump to each DCNF. They do not have return lines so I will see if the needle valves function. The Facet is not super high pressure so I am hopeful it’ll work. Going to attack the linkage today. Good idea on the chunk of railroad rail I will look for one.

ALSO - just ordered the now in stock shifter boot to body from MWB. Mine is shot, stoked to install a new one while the car is still on tall jacks.
 
Agnelli said:
T legs are all three 5/16” meant to split the single feed from the pump to each DCNF. They do not have return lines so I will see if the needle valves function. The Facet is not super high pressure so I am hopeful it’ll work. Going to attack the linkage today. Good idea on the chunk of railroad rail I will look for one.

ALSO - just ordered the now in stock shifter boot to body from MWB. Mine is shot, stoked to install a new one while the car is still on tall jacks.
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Aaah. I was seeing your other pics which showed them linked together with the feed off the end. Thanks
 
Made a template for the throttle linkage from metal coat hangar. Heated Pierce linkage with Benzomatic torch, bent to match template. Fitted, connected throttle cable. Mechanism works well.
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You will want to paint that, it will likely rust unduly after having been heated. Nicely done.

Watch for stress cracks, especially in the threaded section as the threads are stress risers.
 
kmead said:
You will want to paint that, it will likely rust unduly after having been heated. Nicely done.

Watch for stress cracks, especially in the threaded section as the threads are stress risers.
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Will do.

Meanwhile, set old school Midwest Racing, Atlanta GA Meaner Cleaner air cleaners I place with new filters. Debating leave as is or polish.
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I like the patina. It goes with the header and those Bayless stickers, they are the best.
 
kmead said:
I like the patina. It goes with the header and those Bayless stickers, they are the best.
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“Bayless Racing, Atlanta GA”

Meanwhile managed to clean and reinstall the alternator and brackets with nice new belt. It was a trick to wiggle it in to place. Had to put the belt on, then slide in the long pivot bolt.

Distributor is next on the docket. I will run without carb vacuum. I do have two Bosch electronic units. One already had the diaphragm deleted. Not sure if its advance weights have been modified. I did read about welding one weight in the PBS book. Would love feedback about any experience here: just leaving it stock with no vacuum hookup, or?
 
Distributor is next on the docket. I will run without carb vacuum. I do have two Bosch electronic units. One already had the diaphragm deleted. Not sure if its advance weights have been modified. I did read about welding one weight in the PBS book. Would love feedback about any experience here: just leaving it stock with no vacuum hookup, or?
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With 2X DCNF's I'd recommend running without the vacuum advance. It's fairly difficult to connect vacuum to them. Depending on what distributor you are using, you will likely have to play with your advance to find where you get the best performance. I posted a bit of detail in this thread.

Electronic Ignition setup

So I have posted of this multiple times I know, but now I have the full system, plus a few bit of extra pieces. Looking for advice on which to use as is or to do the HEI mod whether in the box our out of it. Towards the end of this thread by Bob Brown I acquired a Yugo electronic ignition...
xwebforums.com
 
Brad Garska said:
Distributor is next on the docket. I will run without carb vacuum. I do have two Bosch electronic units. One already had the diaphragm deleted. Not sure if its advance weights have been modified. I did read about welding one weight in the PBS book. Would love feedback about any experience here: just leaving it stock with no vacuum hookup, or?
Click to expand...

With 2X DCNF's I'd recommend running without the vacuum advance. It's fairly difficult to connect vacuum to them. Depending on what distributor you are using, you will likely have to play with your advance to find where you get the best performance. I posted a bit of detail in this thread.

Electronic Ignition setup

So I have posted of this multiple times I know, but now I have the full system, plus a few bit of extra pieces. Looking for advice on which to use as is or to do the HEI mod whether in the box our out of it. Towards the end of this thread by Bob Brown I acquired a Yugo electronic ignition...
xwebforums.com
[/QUOTE]
Brad -
appreciate your reply and the detail. Of the two Bosch distributors available for this build, the one that I had in the car on the motor just removed is indeed an 050 FI variant. I had rebuilt it recently so it can go back in the car as is (turns freely), set initially at 5 degrees BTDC static. I refurbed the 050 when the existing Yugo ICM failed, replaced with a higher quality unit sourced from Napa, with 8mm silicone plug wires.

Now the key question for you is: how did you modify your advance? I definitely want the system to provide for an RPM ceiling to match the valvetrain, compression, and induction improvements.

And wondering if advance curve mods are necessary, since in my last similar build (128 SL Coupe 1500) with a comparable ignition, the car made good power up high with no apparent ignition limitations.
 
Agnelli said:
With 2X DCNF's I'd recommend running without the vacuum advance. It's fairly difficult to connect vacuum to them. Depending on what distributor you are using, you will likely have to play with your advance to find where you get the best performance. I posted a bit of detail in this thread.

Electronic Ignition setup

So I have posted of this multiple times I know, but now I have the full system, plus a few bit of extra pieces. Looking for advice on which to use as is or to do the HEI mod whether in the box our out of it. Towards the end of this thread by Bob Brown I acquired a Yugo electronic ignition...
xwebforums.com
Click to expand...
Brad -
appreciate your reply and the detail. Of the two Bosch distributors available for this build, the one that I had in the car on the motor just removed is indeed an 050 FI variant. I had rebuilt it recently so it can go back in the car as is (turns freely), set initially at 5 degrees BTDC static. I refurbed the 050 when the existing Yugo ICM failed, replaced with a higher quality unit sourced from Napa, with 8mm silicone plug wires.

Now the key question for you is: how did you modify your advance? I definitely want the system to provide for an RPM ceiling to match the valvetrain, compression, and induction improvements.

And wondering if advance curve mods are necessary, since in my last similar build (128 SL Coupe 1500) with a comparable ignition, the car made good power up high with no apparent ignition limitations.
[/QUOTE]

As the weights swing outward due to centrifugal force, the weights apply a force to the rotor shaft rotating it creating advance.
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On the bottom side of the rotor shaft opposite of where the springs are attached there is a pin that is in a slot on the distributor plate. This acts as a stop for the amount of rotation limiting the amount of advance. In the below images I have overlaid the Fuel injected distributor plate and a modified distributor plate. You can see that the slot has been increased in length therefore increasing the amount the rotor shaft can rotate.

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In my case I lengthened the slot ~ 1.2mm. Please note that changing the slot length does not affect the rate of the mechanical advance, that is controlled by the spring rate. I kept the fuel injected springs which are a lower rate than carb springs and just increased the amount of mechanical advance. This is of course done with the vacuum advance locked. There is a write up here on this site. Hopefully this is clear enough.

AdvanceModification - X1/9 Wiki

xwebforums.com xwebforums.com
 
Thanks Brad. I will contemplate timing mods after getting the new drivetrain running. Meawhile:

050 distributor mounted, cap pointing at plug#3 with rotor oriented at cap pole 4, plugs wires installed. Installed Bosch oil filter. Added one pint Lucas zinc additive and Rotella to the sump. Wound teflon tape around the transaxle drain plug, and poured in 3 quarts Redline MTL (will top the additional 0.1 once off jackstands). Fitted crankcase vent tube to right Meaner Cleaner filter housing - with the new slightly shorter filters, this required trimming the air cleaner vent nipple as it is secured in place by the filter housing top and bottom with pressure from the (new, correct) spring clips. Contemplated fitting newly acquired stainless expansion tank, but discovered I don't have the correct new hoses in stock, so re-fitted the translucent Volvo tank that was in there previously from the prior owner, to facilitate the break in process. Advantages of that tank are (1) you can see the coolant level (2) it fits cleanly where the original carb fan resided, so it allows great access to the engine bay vs. the stainless unit. Poured in a gallon of antifreeze and a gallon of water so far.

No oil leaks. No MTL leaks. One water leak at the pump, re-torqued the housing bolts and pipe bolts, let it sit overnight. Need to re-inspect cooling system today. Note the water pump impeller is new with all new gaskets. Will also ease the v-belt to go easy on the water pump shaft seal. Charged up the battery.

Installed new rod shifter boot to body gasket. Non-trivial to slip the small round end over the square spade aft end of the shifter rod. In the end it fits securely, that'll make the interior better insulated from noise and engine bay air.

Ready to turn the new motor over, check oil pressure, top the oil, get air out of the cooling system, run the fuel pump, check for fuel leaks and working accelerator pumps. Wheels on, drop the car off of jack stands, torque the hub nuts and A arms. Then, hopefully it'll run and can perform the first heat cycle.
 
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Final QA before firing: resolved coolant leak at water pump housing. Alternator back off. Retorqued housing bolts. No leaks over night. Wheels on, ready to drop. Freshly charged battery connected. Re-made a + ring terminal at battery to headlamp relay wire, which was a good discovery that could have caused an intermittent in the past. Key on, fixed a fuel leak at filter. Verified fuel in right carb float bowl and at least that accelerator pump functions.
 
Starter inoperable. Discovered after dropping the car off jackstands. Swapped it out with rebuilt unit I should have installed in the first place. Coolant dripping down on to me from the block- source Identified as the coolant blanking grub screws head to intake. Manifold off. The Permatex Teflon thread locker / sealant ineffective. Cleaned the tapped water jacket holes and reinstalled grub screws with blue Hylomar.

New starter is operational so hopefully can reinstall the intake and fire once the Hylomar sets.
 
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Always little details at the base of a big job. The grub screws leaking was a bad break. I know that inoperable starter thing, happily on an X it isn’t too awful to fix, my Honda Element, not so much.
 
Final issue before firing need forum help:

Turned motor over with no throttle to check for oil pressure/leaks before first start. Oil gushing out of hole just to the right of the crank pulley. What did I miss? What goes there? This block came with my 128 as a spare, so it may be different than the running 1500 I removed. Photo from my phone here is oriented at 90 degrees, the 10mm bolt is closest to the bottom.

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For reference it’s the hole in the below factory manual just under the numeral “2”
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I did solve the coolant leak, and the new starter works great. When I fixed the coolant leak, also swapped out the Volvo coolant reservoir for a correct stainless unit with new hoses and cap.
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Quit messing around and get this thing running for us Jim? Its like waiting for a new Tom Hanks movie release here.
 
Agnelli said:
Final issue before firing need forum help:

I did solve the coolant leak, and the new starter works great. When I fixed the coolant leak, also swapped out the Volvo coolant reservoir for a correct stainless unit with new hoses and cap.
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Lol - what version Volvo tank were you using prior? I didn't see any bay pics that show it :D

Amusing to have to turn my laptop 90º in order to view your pics properly.
 
Great prompt Cliff, that was hysterical. Retrieved two oil galley plugs yesterday - all my machinist had in stock were 1/2" (no 13mm or 33/64" available). He advised the 1/2" would work as the material is quite soft, just be sure to tap it in with a punch or drift smaller than the internal diameter to allow the plug to compress in. Worked great, sealed at the lower galley outlet below the aux drive. I am cautiously optimistic the other three plugs are present - machinist said had he removed any he would have replaced them. Tried to fire the motor (by the way it did cough once the other day when I was testing oil pressure). I think I flooded it, no start, even with starting fluid. I will check timing and pull a spark plug. Also the newly rebuilt starter has some sort of intermittent to fix.
 
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