New Project: 1980 X1/9

I was thinking the same thing re: doing it while I'm doing an oil change. I've got oil and a filter ready to go but might just buy a mechanical pump before I do the change. Any advantage to the electric pump? I'm seeing a mechanical for $38 new which is less than half the cost of the electric...

Personally, I think the positives of running an electric pump far outweigh any negatives. Unless you are dedicated to keeping an X absolutely standard, and your order of an aftermarket air cleaner suggests you aren't. ;) I've run electric pumps on all my 3 Xs and it is a great fix for the dreaded hot start issue. Just be sure it is rated at 3-4 psi to match your carb, this eliminates the need to run a pressure regulator (aka; flow restrictor). It is possible the previous owner installed an electric pump because the standard pump is dead, or they got sick of dealing with hard starting issues.

Jim is absolutely right, some sort of safety switch wired into the fuel pump circuit is a must. If you search eBay for "FORD INERTIA SWITCH FUEL PUMP SHUT OFF" you will find they are a cheap and cheerful safety item. I have one installed in my current X. Give it a good solid whack, and it is set off. Push the red button to reset. Bumpy roads haven''t set it off yet. :)

I believe hose 4 in your photo goes to the smog pump (being a post-1975 car in Colorado you'll probably be required to pass smog tests) and hose 5 is your crankcase breather hose. I'm not really sure what hose 6 is...
It may be "L" in this diagram?

75sd39.jpg

I'm reasonably local to you, so happy to try to help out if I can.

Cheers,

Rob
 
Thanks for the emissions page! That is very helpful for figuring out those hoses.
Living in a super dry hot climate, I decided to take your advice and go ahead with the electric conversion so the carb doesn't run dry. Ordered a blanking plate, gasket and filter from VAS and a low pressure pump to test see if I can get her running. I'll pick up an inertia switch for the install as well but not in a rush on that since it'll be quite a while before she sees the road.
 
Pulled the fuel pump today in prep for switching to an electric unit. The actuating rod seemed quite small... just a little cylinder only a couple of inches long and maybe 1/8" thick. I wonder if it was even being actuated at all. Here is the pump:
pump.jpg
 
Geez, I don't know where to start. My favorite color for one thing. It looks to me that you have a fairly unmolested X there. I know that others will be all about the various things that can be removed. But honestly, when properly maintained the stock set up as you have is among the smoothest running and most reliable set-ups that you can have. To put it another way, I have several modified vintage vehicles, but the stock X is my most dependable and driveable vehicle because I know that it is designed to work. Once mods start you get all sorts of unintended side effects. That is mu opinion. So what I am saying is that given the relatively few unmolested carbed Xs out there, you have a gold mine in my opinion as it stands. Here are a couple of reference pictures.
 

Attachments

  • P3210459.JPG
    P3210459.JPG
    339.9 KB · Views: 78
  • emission_labels.jpg
    emission_labels.jpg
    387.7 KB · Views: 78
Thanks! I had the same color '82 back in the early 90's and I regretted selling it! I'm not planning to go crazy with mods and am focused mostly on restoration but it came with some unfinished repairs that led me to make a couple of changes.
  • The air cleaner assembly was missing and so I'm swapping in a K&N filter setup (already done but need the breather hose adapter and will likely put a catch can on as well to make sure oil doesn't get into the carbs) . Was pretty much plug and play, gives the carb a bit more air which I've read they appreciate, and cleaned up the engine bay.
  • The fuel system was pulled apart and PO said it wasn't working, so I'm dropping in an electric fuel pump (just waiting for the parts) to see if that fixes the problem. I'm thinking with the dry hot climate here, going electric will prevent the hot start issue. Still snooping around to see where I want to pull power from.
Everything else I'm going to try to stay near stock. If I can get her running and reliable, I'll spend the money on good paint, new rubber, and repairs to the upholstery since I've been happy with the 1500 in the past and don't intend to track her.
 
Last edited:
Yes, an electric fuel pump is a good, clean mod, especially with a proper relay, that does not detract from the basic design and function.. That cylindrical thing just under the engine lid prop is my fuel pump. Been there for 30 plus years and works just fine. No need to mount it low as many have said over the years. For the first decade I used a Facet pump. But in the last decade or so I have started using the VW style and like its compact fit.
 
Was hoping to get it started today but didn't happen. :(

Put the fuel pump block out plate on, changed the oil, installed the electric pump temporarily and she cranks but won't turn over. I initially installed the pump on the fuel tank but it pulled a ton of crud into the filter and seemed to clog up at the intake (glad I used a clear one) and so I disconnected that and am just testing it out of a jar of gas for now - will need a new tank I'm guessing.

Pump constantly runs and also returns fuel to the jar via the return line and with the choke open, it sounded like it almost caught once or twice. I'm wondering if there is either a carb problem or a spark problem that is preventing turning over.

I guess the upside is that the engine bay is getting cleaner as I dig around looking for stuff!
bay.jpg
 
Did you try pouring a little gas down the carb throat or using starting spray? That may give more info on how close you are to running.
 
Did you try pouring a little gas down the carb throat or using starting spray? That may give more info on how close you are to running.

Yep, tried starter spray down the carb with no luck. I'm working on it by myself so I can spray and crank at the same time but I'd think it would still work if it was a fuel issue.
 
Back
Top