New seatbelts

jimmyx said:
There are a couple of things to be aware of with this installation. The first is the mounting hole for the shoulder belt is very low in an early car. Couple that with the raised lip of the parcel shelf and you will find there is no way for a clear belt run, nor will the upper belt attachment point be able to rotate. I recommended the Securon belt for several reasons; the components (retractor, etc.) are more compact than most, and the hardware kit has what you need. The pic will show how the upper mount is moved forward with a supplied extension bracket. The lower portion of the belt (lap) can be secured with a short extension bracket that runs from behind the retractor so that the one bolt secures both. The alternate method is to drill a hole through the floor and secure from under the car. There is no such thing as plug-n-play in a '74 but it's not a difficult job.View attachment 40800
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Do you remember WHICH securon model was used in this instance - 500/30? No chance you'll ever have a picture of that lower pillar connection?
thanks
 
tvmaster said:
Okay - if you ever find one, post it. What you're saying is that BOTH the retractor and belt harness can bolt to the same, lower pillar nut, right?
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You can use one anchor point, or you can drill another in the floor. Modifications that differ from original equipment is never plug-n-play. You will need to lay-out the belt run, figure out the optimum retractor placement, and decide what needs to be done to make the install work. The '74 is not really a good platform for 3 point retractable belts. It is much better suited to a manual should belt. The best solution would be to raise the b-pillar attachment point and go with the 514. That only requires the one lower attachhment point you already have.
 
jimmyx said:
You can use one anchor point, or you can drill another in the floor. Modifications that differ from original equipment is never plug-n-play. You will need to lay-out the belt run, figure out the optimum retractor placement, and decide what needs to be done to make the install work. The '74 is not really a good platform for 3 point retractable belts. It is much better suited to a manual should belt. The best solution would be to raise the b-pillar attachment point and go with the 514. That only requires the one lower attachhment point you already have.
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Yes, as the previous poster noted. Retractor is damn ugly up there. lol.
 
tvmaster said:
Yes, as the previous poster noted. Retractor is damn ugly up there. lol.
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That 514 would look fine if it were able to be mounted horizontally on the shelf. Have no idea if that area has enough strength with an anchor bracket? May not have enough room with rear speakers installed either. Belt exit on the retractor should be high enough to clear the parcel shelf lip, but the retractor depth may require that the lip be trimmed too. Anything can be done, just might be more work than it's worth.
 
tvmaster said:
Yes, as the previous poster noted. Retractor is damn ugly up there. lol.
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514 is top mount only. There isn't enough room at the bottom mount to install the 530 retractor which must be mounted vertically, the bulkhead is too close as this pic shows. You think the retractor is damn ugly up there. Looks like you're gonna want to go with manually adjustable belts...
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Hi. Do you have a pic of the receptor? Did you buy the 30cm stalk version, because I‘m testing a cheap, off-brand, and the 30cm stalk seems to kinda jut out too far and just hang in space.
 
The 30 is exactly the same length as the factory receptor that came in the car originally. It falls right to hand when I buckle up in the car.
 
mlsceo said:
The 30 is exactly the same length as the factory receptor that came in the car originally. It falls right to hand when I buckle up in the car.
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Yes, I guess because of the lack of sheath and rigidity of the stalk it just seems more in-my-face. That, and most harness systems clasp lower on the hip as opposed to where the regular lap-retractable FIAT clasp connects

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The seats in my 78 are more contoured than the ones in a 74 so that might make a 30 look really long in your car. That said you could probably go with a 15cm receptor and still have it be where you need it?
 
mlsceo said:
The seats in my 78 are more contoured than the ones in a 74 so that might make a 30 look really long in your car. That said you could probably go with a 15cm receptor and still have it be where you need it?
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Well, I’d also like the wired receptor, and it only comes in 15cm I think as well. Your seats probably do make a difference.
 
I tested the wire when I did the install. Disconnected the wire, made no difference at all. Reminder light in the dash comes on for a few seconds then goes out just as it did with the factory belts. No buzzer to deal with in my car.
 
mlsceo said:
I tested the wire when I did the install. Disconnected the wire, made no difference at all. Reminder light in the dash comes on for a few seconds then goes out just as it did with the factory belts. No buzzer to deal with in my car.
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Eh? What’s the wire connected to in the 514? What exactly did you connect the ‘wire’ to...
 
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I should've clarified. I turned the key to the on position as well as starting the car with the FACTORY retractor in place. The seatbelt reminder light in the dash came on for a few seconds then went out. I then disconnected the the wire from its location on the FACTORY retractor and did the same test, same result. That told me that there wasn't going to be an issue with leaving the wire disconnected and installing the 514 which has no wire. Hope that clears that up for you. What belts are you testing?
 
mlsceo said:
Judging by this pic the 15 will be too short. It'll be down between the seat and the console.
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Agreed. I thought of adding one of their extender pieces of steel, probably need 22cm total to be perfect :)
 
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kmead said:
Simple, power to the buckle, then to the wire that goes to the bulb and the buzzer. A relay is almost the same, power to the relay, power to the buckle and then back to the relay. Then power to the buzzer and the bulb. Yes I oversimplified this.
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Finally getting around to this. Goal is to have the seat belt cluster lamp stay lit until the driver buckles up.
No need for chimes at this point.
Following the schematic, the seat belt button wiring seems to run thru the interlock device, which is removed.
If I read the schematic properly, #29 on the cluster also rolls thru the interlock device :(

When you say “simple, supply power” - from where exactly? 12v right off the battery?
I’m trying to figure out how to test-trigger the seat belt light. Ideas?
I‘m also a bit confused about what exactly the driver’s side seat belt buckle wire does - is it an interrupt of some kind, aka there’s constant power going to the cluster light, and inserting the buckle breaks it?
 
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dllubin said:
You will also want to connect the seat bottom switches so you don't have to buckle the passenger seat when nobody is there in order to keep the lights and buzzers off.
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Finally got around to trying to make this work. After hours of learning how to read the color electric schematic, and finding the right two pages in the 340 page service manual, I kinda figured it out. I fed the driver‘s seat retractor, yellow/pink lead to the red/blue wire feeding the cluster lamp, by a jumper inserted where the interlock device resides. Simple, really.
Pull out the belt, light goes out. Perfect.

Also figured out how to hook up the buzzer. lol. yikes. I’ll find a nicer sounding chime one day. At least I made some headway with wiring - which I’ve been a little hesitant do do.

One thing: what’s the purpose of the under-seat wiring?

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