New to me 79 1500

So I decided that I would go with a Microsquirt. Messing with the Honda stuff I still think is possible but it's just so much stuff that I don't need and the cut off wires were driving me nuts. I did want to do this as cheap as I could just because I was not entirely committed to the Fit engine. Still, the Microsquirt can be removed and used on about any other engine and they seem pretty simple to install soooo...

That has been the most expensive thing so far, other than the car. After shipping and exchange it was over $600, the 2008 Honda Fit was $450. I can't remember the water pump but it may be back in this thread somewhere. I sold the X engine... I can't remember, $500? Maybe 6? I still don't think I have a grand into it yet.

I pulled the plugs, put some oil in the bores and turned the engine over with the starter. I'm still thinking about the Honda fuse/ relay panel, it's free and nicely laid our but the wiring behind the scenes is frustrating. An straight in out would be nice.
 
ricar said:
So I decided that I would go with a Microsquirt. Messing with the Honda stuff I still think is possible but it's just so much stuff that I don't need and the cut off wires were driving me nuts. I did want to do this as cheap as I could just because I was not entirely committed to the Fit engine. Still, the Microsquirt can be removed and used on about any other engine and they seem pretty simple to install soooo...

That has been the most expensive thing so far, other than the car. After shipping and exchange it was over $600, the 2008 Honda Fit was $450. I can't remember the water pump but it may be back in this thread somewhere. I sold the X engine... I can't remember, $500? Maybe 6? I still don't think I have a grand into it yet.

I pulled the plugs, put some oil in the bores and turned the engine over with the starter. I'm still thinking about the Honda fuse/ relay panel, it's free and nicely laid our but the wiring behind the scenes is frustrating. An straight in out would be nice.
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Changing the existing fuse panel for a modern type fuse block is not the worst job and has been documented. Using the Honda system would be some serious work to integrate.

The Microsquirt is a good choice, given this engine is relatively simple without VTEC etc

Plenty of wiring in your future.
 
ricar said:
I'd like to get away from the old style fuses. If I had one of the newer blocks I think I'd keep it. I'm thinking something like this maybe
https://www.ebay.com/itm/353974161251(11 fuses 6 realys)
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Not much of a fan of that particular unit. I would use the Lada fuse unit and add an OE X relay block which you can get from MWB.

LADA NIVA / LADA 2101-2107 FUSE BOX + FUSES EURO (13 FUSES)

LADA NIVA / LADA 2101-2107 FUSE BOX + FUSES EURO (13 FUSES)
partslada.com partslada.com

The nice thing about the Lada fuse block is you can use your existing wiring as is and just add the needed jumpers to make the interconnects between the ones which share inputs. Then use the OE relay set up which is a high quality unit: https://www.midwest-bayless.com/Fia...bertone-x19-1979-85-other-fiat-lancia-u8.aspx and add in new fittings. Alternatively one could use the late one which is prewired and just unpin the wires to the connector: https://www.midwest-bayless.com/Fia...for-ac-seat-belts-bertone-x19-1985-88-u8.aspx
 
ricar said:
Messing with the Honda stuff I still think is possible but it's just so much stuff that I don't need and the cut off wires were driving me nuts.
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It's a lot of wires for sure. I like to strip off all of the tape and plastic shielding and remove each unnecessary wire completely from the harness. It takes more time, but it makes for a tidy install. Plus it's easier for me to sleep at night knowing that there aren't dead wires just lying there in the harness.
 
So, I'm letting the squirt sit for a bit. I have some of it connected and can see it on Tuner Studio, now I have homework and more sensors to figure out.

Now I need to fix the passenger side brake line I destroyed fixing a rust spot and I'm looking into the half shafts. The X half shaft is HUGE next to the spindly Fit shafts.


Is 3/16 the right size for brake lines?
 
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Anyone have good experience with connectors? I am looking for a couple of weatherproof... maybe 12 pin, around there... connectors for use in the engine bay. There are a bunch on Amazon but reviews are hit and miss, and some are pretty darn expensive.
 
Any idea what this sensor is on my throttle body? I'm looking to get rid if what I don't need and I'm not sure what this does. It looks like it reads vacuum but it's not the MAP sensor, that's in behind. The IAT is in the box before this..... I'm at a loss. I have marked it purge valve (at the other end of the wires. I was reading he colours off the ECU pinout and labeled them as I cut them off the connector. The purge valve however is in a canister under the car, could this control that somehow? That canister went to the dump with the car.


Also any thoughts on the output shaft speed sensor? I see no need for that, it's a manual trans and I don't need a trans controller but I may not be thinking of something.
 

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ricar said:
and I'm looking into the half shafts. The X half shaft is HUGE next to the spindly Fit shafts
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Hi Ricar. Possibly.....if the Fit shaft is a small diameter......your cheapest option might be to just get one end of the Fiat shaft re-splined to match the spline size of the Fit inner CV joint.....

ricar said:
Now I need to fix the passenger side brake line I destroyed fixing a rust spot


Is 3/16 the right size for brake lines?
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Yes...it is a 3/16" line. If you have trouble......I have all the tooling and fittings and line to be able to make a new line. PM me if you are stuck...

ricar said:
Any idea what this sensor is on my throttle body? I'm looking to get rid if what I don't need and I'm not sure what this does. It looks like it reads vacuum but it's not the MAP sensor, that's in behind. The IAT is in the box before this..... I'm at a loss. I have marked it purge valve (at the other end of the wires. I was reading he colours off the ECU pinout and labeled them as I cut them off the connector. The purge valve however is in a canister under the car, could this control that somehow? That canister went to the dump with the car.
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I'm not familiar with Fits.....so take this advise with what you paid for it.....but typically on cars of this vintage there is usually a purge valve on or near or connected to the throttle body. It is part of the evap system. It is usually connected to a port - just on the intake side of the throttle plate - and the valve opens - when commanded by the engine ECU - at times to suck in the vapours that have accumulated in the canister. Often there is another valve or pressure sensor down with the canister under the car. that works in conjunction with the purge valve on the throttle body. If...you are using the stock ECU....you probably should have retained all those components...and hooked them all up. Otherwise....it will set off the check engine light......

Likely...this purge valve is closed by default....until powered by the ECU to open. So you could leave it in place if the valve is not leaking..no harm done. If you want to remove it...you will likely then have to plug the port somehow....or else you will have a vacuum leak.....

ricar said:
Also any thoughts on the output shaft speed sensor? I see no need for that, it's a manual trans and I don't need a trans controller but I may not be thinking of something.
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Again...not 100% sure on a Fit...but typically that speed sensor on the tranny sends a speed signal to the ECU that in turn sends a signal to the speedometer....and the cruise control or shift light ( if so equipped )....or just directly to the speedometer...not sure which on your Fit. As the Fit - unlike the Fiat - likely does not have a speedo cable to run the speedo. So....you WILL likely need that speed sensor hooked up.......Guess you could either use the Fit cluster somehow...or...it may be possible to somehow change the stock X1/9 speedo to a Punto speedo that fits into the stock X1/9 cluster. That is what Yves here did on his X - search here for threads on that.....So in either case you should retain that stock Fit speed sensor on the tranny.......But....I suppose alternatively you could also use some type of GPS speedo......

Good luck with your project. Very cool.......
 
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So that was the purge valve solenoid on the throttle body. I cut the wires to it but left it in place now to plug the hole. I started to redo the engine harness and pretty much left everything but a couple wires, purge solenoid and the wired for the throttle by wire.

In redoing the harness I pulled the coil wires out of the harness and wrapped them in aluminum tape then the wire hose stuff and tape. They are known to cause issues with the crank sensor. Removing them from the harness is apparently enough but I had the Alu tape so why not. I did pull the engine to do all this.

Now I'm wondering where these starting charging wires will need to go, I don't want to live off the battery and I want to make a decision on where to put the Microsquirt. I don't want to lose the spare tire spot if I don't have to so I'm thinking I'd like to keep it under the glove box. Under the glove box means a big cluster of wires down beside the passenger seat which I'm not a fan of. I realize there is no getting around that but I can keep it as small as I can. I was thinking about running the engine harness into the rear tire area then connectors to the squirt there. Maybe I could run the wires through the tunnel.

Also at this point I'm wondering about painting the engine bay. I need to do the brake line so maybe this I the time to do it.... I just feel it's a bit early and would hate to mess it up. Also what colour? I'm thinking orange, I was thinking the Fiat green but I am still on the fence. I could do it black but apparently that's not the thing to do.
 
ricar said:
So that was the purge valve solenoid on the throttle body. I cut the wires to it but left it in place now to plug the hole. I started to redo the engine harness and pretty much left everything but a couple wires, purge solenoid and the wired for the throttle by wire.

In redoing the harness I pulled the coil wires out of the harness and wrapped them in aluminum tape then the wire hose stuff and tape. They are known to cause issues with the crank sensor. Removing them from the harness is apparently enough but I had the Alu tape so why not. I did pull the engine to do all this.

Now I'm wondering where these starting charging wires will need to go, I don't want to live off the battery and I want to make a decision on where to put the Microsquirt. I don't want to lose the spare tire spot if I don't have to so I'm thinking I'd like to keep it under the glove box. Under the glove box means a big cluster of wires down beside the passenger seat which I'm not a fan of. I realize there is no getting around that but I can keep it as small as I can. I was thinking about running the engine harness into the rear tire area then connectors to the squirt there. Maybe I could run the wires through the tunnel.

Also at this point I'm wondering about painting the engine bay. I need to do the brake line so maybe this I the time to do it.... I just feel it's a bit early and would hate to mess it up. Also what colour? I'm thinking orange, I was thinking the Fiat green but I am still on the fence. I could do it black but apparently that's not the thing to do.
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I would put the microsquirt in the spare tire well, there is more than enough room in there for the unit and the relays with the removal of the double relay and the Bosch ECU.

Not sure what starting/charging wires you are speaking of.
 
Yes....as Karl says....there should be plenty of room in the spare tire well for the Microsquirt ECU. In case you are not aware...that is where it is on the EFI X1/9s. And I think the original Bosch ECU is likely larger than the Microsquirt ECU. It was placed sorta in the centre of the spare wheel. And yes...lots of room for relays and such, especially up the right wall divider.....
 
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Okay... Looks like the spare tire area. I do have the 8" harness for the Microsquirt so maybe I will replace all the Honda wires back to the engine and just splice on the connectors. That way I will only have one colour code to worry about.
 
ricar said:
Okay... Looks like the spare tire area. I do have the 8" harness for the Microsquirt so maybe I will replace all the Honda wires back to the engine and just splice on the connectors. That way I will only have one colour code to worry about.
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I wouldn’t splice any wires if I could help it. You should be able to reuse the connectors and install new contacts. Hussien (lookforjoe) has left great crumbs in his threads of what you may need to buy to use the Honda sensors and connectors in his K24 threads.
 
Having good connections without splices will make it easier to resolve issues as you have fewer failure points. Using the right connector in the beginning properly crimped will take longer but will pay off in the long term.
 
I do agree, but my low budget approach and soldering iron have been hard at work. I really don't see soldering the wires to pigtails as much of an issue, maybe I will regret that in the future but that will be future me's problem... or my kid's.
 
Still having issues with my MAP sensor though. I have now toasted 2. It is inches away from my TPS, they are bridged at the same point, same Green/white for 5v in, same Yellow/Red ground, the only different wires are the sensor wires but the MAP causes the Microsquirt to disconnect from Tuner Studio and it will actually heat up if I leave it powered up. TPS works fine, works perfect in Tuner Studio. I'm afraid to buy another MAP until I can figure something out.
 
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