kmead
Old enough to know better
GM MAP sensor? I don’t have the experience around these but it seems like an odd failure.
New to me 79 1500
- Thread starter ricar
- Start date
ricar
True Classic
So I have a working (seemingly ) MAP sensor now.
New issue. Any alternator guys in the house? I have the Honda alternator which is controlled by the ECU. I need it to not be controlled by the ECU.
I have a 12v in wire, voltage out wire, lamp wire , field reference and control wire.
12v in is fine, voltage out is easy enough. Lamp wire I'm assuming I can cut, or use I suppose.
The reference and control wires I'm not sure about. I believe I can just cut them off but then the alternator will just give 100% at all times which is bad. So can I run an external voltage regulator? I assume I can but I have no idea what I'm looking for.
I found this one
but no idea how to wire it in, apparently directions are in the box.
This is the waterpipe delete if I have not posted it yet. Looks like a 830mm belt will work for me.
New issue. Any alternator guys in the house? I have the Honda alternator which is controlled by the ECU. I need it to not be controlled by the ECU.
I have a 12v in wire, voltage out wire, lamp wire , field reference and control wire.
12v in is fine, voltage out is easy enough. Lamp wire I'm assuming I can cut, or use I suppose.
The reference and control wires I'm not sure about. I believe I can just cut them off but then the alternator will just give 100% at all times which is bad. So can I run an external voltage regulator? I assume I can but I have no idea what I'm looking for.
I found this one
but no idea how to wire it in, apparently directions are in the box.
This is the waterpipe delete if I have not posted it yet. Looks like a 830mm belt will work for me.
Attachments
dllubin
Don
If you have access to the required terminals, you should be able to use an external regulator. The regulator monitors the output voltage and adjusts the field current to maintain the target output voltage. As the load increases, the voltage will start to go down and the regulator will increase the field current to maintain the voltage. When the load goes down and the voltage starts to rise,, it reduces the field current to maintain the target voltage.
ricar
True Classic
I understand that, but my question is, can I use an external regulator with an alternator that has an internal regulator, and doesn't exactly have posts to connect to.
ricar
True Classic
I haven't posted on this thread for a bit. I had issues with the crank sensor, I found out that my specific L15A engine does not actually use a 60 -2 trigger wheel but a 12 +1 like the Honda K series. The MegaSquirt has a Honda decoder that will read this but the Microsquirt does not. I had to pull the timing cover off and remove the two teeth that were close together so now it is an 12 -1. Now I am getting a good crank signal.
Also the Honda crank sensor uses 12V, I ended up using a Hall Tech crank sensor that will work with 5 to 24V but the resistor needed will vary depending on the voltage. I used the Microsquirt VREF +5V and a 1k resistor.
I know, slow going but both my kids are on 2 hockey teams each and just finished a 6 day stretch with hockey every night. Now 2 nights off and my son has a "stayover" tournament on Monday - Wednesday. Hoping to look at the timing on Thursday/Friday but my daughter has a tournament next weekend. They are both already signed up for spring hockey.
Also the Honda crank sensor uses 12V, I ended up using a Hall Tech crank sensor that will work with 5 to 24V but the resistor needed will vary depending on the voltage. I used the Microsquirt VREF +5V and a 1k resistor.
I know, slow going but both my kids are on 2 hockey teams each and just finished a 6 day stretch with hockey every night. Now 2 nights off and my son has a "stayover" tournament on Monday - Wednesday. Hoping to look at the timing on Thursday/Friday but my daughter has a tournament next weekend. They are both already signed up for spring hockey.
kmead
Old enough to know better
I think you need to track down the wiring diagram and find out how the system itself works. How does the ECU from Honda control the alternator? Can that approach be adapted? The approach of using an early X regulator makes sense, it would be in place of the Honda ECU signal.
Last edited:
ricar
True Classic
The original... I can't remember what they called their system but it was load based that could shut the alternator off completely if load was light, I believe it would bleed excess to ground. It's been so long since I looked at it I can't remember the parts! Right now I will try to just get it going off the battery then look into the alternator.
Unfortunately the help guy I was dealing with in regards to the Microsquirt thought for some reason I had a Megasquirt so he was asking about everything else, then I had another guy who obviously checked through the past emails and found the issue. Easy to say but they don't return emails on an hourly basis so that took in all honesty a few weeks of testing and ordering parts for maybe no reason at all.
Unfortunately the help guy I was dealing with in regards to the Microsquirt thought for some reason I had a Megasquirt so he was asking about everything else, then I had another guy who obviously checked through the past emails and found the issue. Easy to say but they don't return emails on an hourly basis so that took in all honesty a few weeks of testing and ordering parts for maybe no reason at all.
Lowtechprime
Retro Grouch
Usually a -6... Maybe a -4... What year is it? Whichever size, use a Teflon line.. That way you won't have to replace it every few years..
Lowtechprime
Retro Grouch
XRP -6 AN Male to 5/16 Inch Aluminum Tubing Adapter
www.lpiracing.com
Lowtechprime
Retro Grouch
Yes, unfortunately the flare/bubble has to be cut off, so there's no going back.. But there's also no compelling reason to go back to a hose clamped rubber line!
kmead
Old enough to know better
The OE hose is 7.9mm in diameter, so yeah pretty dumb close to 5/16ths.
The tube from the fuel filter is actually a threaded connection which leads to a clamped connection of the hose to the fuel rail.
The female portion of that connection is here:
Fuel Rail Supply Fitting (Fiat Bertone X1/9, 124 Spider 1980-On w/FI) - OE / RENEWED
Fuel Rail Supply Fitting (Fiat Bertone X1/9, 124 Spider 1980-On w/FI) - OE / RENEWED
www.midwest-bayless.com
Fuel Line Fuel Pipe Metal Line - SUPPLY (Fiat Bertone X1/9 1980-88 w/FI) - U8
Fuel Line Fuel Pipe Metal Line - SUPPLY (Fiat Bertone X1/9 1980-88 w/FI) - U8
www.midwest-bayless.com
Looks a bit like the brake/clutch line compression fitting
ricar
True Classic
My fuel rail is actually a 2008 Honda, so it's a modern EFI push on with the retainer clips. I have not sourced a fuel filter but that can't be too hard..... I assume. Now it'll be a PITA!The OE hose is 7.9mm in diameter, so yeah pretty dumb close to 5/16ths.
The tube from the fuel filter is actually a threaded connection which leads to a clamped connection of the hose to the fuel rail.
The female portion of that connection is here:
The hard line leading to it is this:Fuel Rail Supply Fitting (Fiat Bertone X1/9, 124 Spider 1980-On w/FI) - OE / RENEWED
Fuel Rail Supply Fitting (Fiat Bertone X1/9, 124 Spider 1980-On w/FI) - OE / RENEWED
Fuel Line Fuel Pipe Metal Line - SUPPLY (Fiat Bertone X1/9 1980-88 w/FI) - U8
Fuel Line Fuel Pipe Metal Line - SUPPLY (Fiat Bertone X1/9 1980-88 w/FI) - U8
Looks a bit like the brake/clutch line compression fitting
View attachment 71955
kmead
Old enough to know better
I would use the same Bosch filter, there is nothing wrong with a short section of flex hose…
However you could get the old CIS filters which used a banjo bolt approach with a rigid line.
I have been amazed by what has drained out of my Bosch filters over the years.
ricar
True Classic
Okay I have the fuel sorted, sort of. I'm not sure on the routing but I have what I need, all in place and inline fuel filter. Most bling stuff on the car now is the fuel line!
So, now does anyone know of some sort of universal fuel level gauge that will work with the X gauge? My stock one was toast and I'd rather not use an original cuz they are expensive and shipping and exchange blah blah...
So, now does anyone know of some sort of universal fuel level gauge that will work with the X gauge? My stock one was toast and I'd rather not use an original cuz they are expensive and shipping and exchange blah blah...
ricar
True Classic
So, apparently Honda and Microsquirt are at odds. Another issue I am facing is with the injectors, the Honda uses low impedence injectors and the Squirt will not work with them directly. With resistors apparently they will work but I'd rather not rely on them (I do have them ordered) so I have a question for the guys here as I know some of you tinker from time to time...
What would be tha chances of finding high impedence injectors that would fit in the stock injector holes? I assume as long as flow is close they would work?
What would be tha chances of finding high impedence injectors that would fit in the stock injector holes? I assume as long as flow is close they would work?
kmead
Old enough to know better
I didn’t realize Honda used a low impedance injector like early Bosch/Fiat systems. Not what I would have expected. They did change.
Can you use the existing Honda resister pack which comes with the existing system?
Honda went to high impedance on a later version of that motor from what I can see. There are a number of threads around changing to later injectors on one of the Fit forums.
fuel injectors - Unofficial Honda FIT Forums
Fit Engine Modifications, Motor Swaps, ECU Tuning - fuel injectors - what size fuel injector should I get to push beyond 9 psi? which brand? DO I need special connector clips to install the injectors? Thanks
www.fitfreak.net
There was also this thread referenced on the Fit forum: https://www.8thcivic.com/threads/diy-rdx-injector-install.191014/
The injectors look a lot like a typical modern injector so hopefully you can exchange them. Alternatively you could change the fuel rail (which looks like where some variation exists) to use a Pico or Bosch injector.
The later Fit uses a very unusual modern injector with a spigot sort of nose, those would be hard to change to something else.
Last edited:
ricar
True Classic
Thanks! Much appreciated, I will go through that. Funny in all my searching Honda Fit fuel injectors that forum never came up.
I am measuring 1ohm on my #1 injector.
I do believe the stock resistor pack may have been tossed... DOH!
If I provide the injectors 12v and ground they do open. Running the Squirt in test mode it does provide ground as proven with a test light. So injectors seem to be fine, Squirt seems to be fine but when I put the two together, nada. The enging will run if I squirt fuel (quick start type spray) into the intake.
I am measuring 1ohm on my #1 injector.
I do believe the stock resistor pack may have been tossed... DOH!
If I provide the injectors 12v and ground they do open. Running the Squirt in test mode it does provide ground as proven with a test light. So injectors seem to be fine, Squirt seems to be fine but when I put the two together, nada. The enging will run if I squirt fuel (quick start type spray) into the intake.
Last edited: