No electrical power

DarrenHNZ

True Classic
Hi Team
Currently rebuilding my baby (1978 1300 Euro Spec).
Long story short I put the refurbed dashboard in yesterday and went to test the dash board warning lights. Turned the ignition key and absolutely nil power.The battery is brand new.

I have an electric fuel pump that normally primes on the first turn of the ignition key.
Currently the car is minus its front indicators and lights (removed to repair some body work issues)

I guess my questions are:
1. Do I need all the lights and indicators hooked up to ensure a circuit.
2. Where does the main cable connect prior to the fuse board.
3. How do I test an ignition switch.

Really frustrated and would greatly appreciate some advice.
With thanks
Daz New Zealand
 
No electricity anywhere is usually pretty easy to trace. You'll need a multimeter, which is inexpensive and useful for a bunch of other problems as well, and you'll find a wiring diagram is very helpful.

First, verify that the battery is charged. Second, verify that you have continuity between the battery negative terminal and the chassis. Then you can start following the wire from the battery positive terminal to the ignition switch and to the fuse box and see where you should be getting voltage and aren't. You'll find something that hasn't been hooked up or has worked loose pretty quickly.
 
No electricity anywhere is usually pretty easy to trace. You'll need a multimeter, which is inexpensive and useful for a bunch of other problems as well, and you'll find a wiring diagram is very helpful.

Thanks for the prompt reply Eric will head out at lunch time to purchase a multimeter....... electrics aren't one of my strengths :-(
 
If you had the dash out then you most likely undid the two plugs by the steering column. Check to make sure all the spades in those plugs are making contact. Especially the big brown one.
 
If you had the dash out then you most likely undid the two plugs by the steering column. Check to make sure all the spades in those plugs are making contact. Especially the big brown one.

Thanks for that...... must admit I got a little frustrated last night...... perhaps my fire fighter mitts weren't the most gentle :)....
 
Good advice already from others. In summary if you have NO electrical power it's often related to a bad battery connection/ground, or a connection at the ignition switch (or the switch itself). If you have power to some circuits but not others, it's more likely a relay/fuse or local (to the circuit) ground.

A good method when taking apart the column and electrical connections is to put tape on each connector and number them -- and take smartphone pics. Makes everything easier during reassembly.
 
The X (and many other Fiats) has a white plastic junction box (about 1"x3") that takes four large spade connected brown wires. This box is the main connection for most circuits and it's easy to have the wires pulled out by accident if you are rummaging around with the dash. I think it's located on the front firewall up where the passenger feet would be on a left hand drive X. Also, easy to see if main battery connections are good by checking the battery cable at the starter motor threaded stud connection.
 
Update.... half my electrics now work but nothing when I turn the ignition. As an aside broke out my fire fighting skills when the earth wire from my headlight switch decided to melt rather quickly. I'm guess I must of connected the earth wire incorrectly :-(. Good news is I saved the car and the brand new garage !
 
Hmmm... good job on saving the car & garage - for a ground wire to melt, it would have to have a (unfused) power feed directly connected to it... ground side can't overheat for any other reason that I can think of. Better check the HL switch - is there even a ground wire attached to it? Doesn't really make sense that there would be. I'd suggest checking the wiring diagram to determine exactly what is connected to the wire that melted.
 
I think I might of put the wrong wire on the wrong terminal on the headlight switch when I switched out the old dash :) Not brave enough to test my theory yet :)
 
I think I might of put the wrong wire on the wrong terminal on the headlight switch when I switched out the old dash :) Not brave enough to test my theory yet :)

This low-cost item is perfect for home mechanics that are not super-confident in their electrical skills. It lets you use 8 conventional household AA batteries to energize your car's electrical system with 12v to check continuity, circuits, connectors, and what-have-you, but the amperage delivered is a fraction of what a normal car battery could deliver, so there's virtually no chance of burning up wires, and the car, if you wire or connect something wrong.

Translation for electri-phobes: the sparks will be a whole lot less bright!! :) :)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hold-8-AA-L...ox-ON-OFF-Switch-Alligator-Clip-/272241562140
 
This low-cost item is perfect for home mechanics that are not super-confident in their electrical skills. It lets you use 8 conventional household AA batteries to energize your car's electrical system with 12v to check continuity, circuits, connectors, and what-have-you, but the amperage delivered is a fraction of what a normal car battery could deliver, so there's virtually no chance of burning up wires, and the car, if you wire or connect something wrong.

Translation for electri-phobes: the sparks will be a whole lot less bright!! :) :)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hold-8-AA-L...ox-ON-OFF-Switch-Alligator-Clip-/272241562140
Years ago I worked at a place making consumer electronics products. We once had an early prototype melt on us, as the battery contacts moved out of position and shorted two AA batteries. A fresh AA battery can briefly supply in excess of 7 amps when shorted; Two orders of magnitude (or perhaps 1.5 orders of magnitude) less than a car battery, for sure, but still enough to warm things up a bit.
 
This low-cost item is perfect for home mechanics that are not super-confident in their electrical skills. It lets you use 8 conventional household AA batteries to energize your car's electrical system with 12v to check continuity, circuits, connectors, and what-have-you, but the amperage delivered is a fraction of what a normal car battery could deliver, so there's virtually no chance of burning up wires, and the car, if you wire or connect something wrong.

Translation for electri-phobes: the sparks will be a whole lot less bright!! :) :)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hold-8-AA-L...ox-ON-OFF-Switch-Alligator-Clip-/272241562140
Thank you.... will check locally here in New Zealand
 
As an aside broke out my fire fighting skills when the earth wire from my headlight switch decided to melt rather quickly.
Some years ago I dropped member Ovenbird's oil pressure sender behind the engine block of his car and onto the hot starter terminal. That didn't just melt insulation, it melted the metal skin of the sender unit before we were able to disconnect the battery ground cable like I should have before starting to work in that area.

And although there's no reason why you should pay any attention to me after I did something that stupid... if you ran a dead short through the headlight switch, it's probably pretty well fried and will start going flaky on you. If the short was the relay-controlled line to the headlight motor, that doesn't go through the switch, but I'd consider replacing the relay - they're cheap.
 
Hi Team spent a rather informative weekend on the issue ..... after tracking all the wiring the issue was as simple as a bent pin on the back of the ignition barrel. It would appear that when I put the new dash in I might of been a little to brutish :).Replaced with a spare and running beautifully.... now to push on an get on the road before Christmas to enjoy the New Zealand summer. My thanks to you all for your advice. Take care Daz
 
Update.... half my electrics now work but nothing when I turn the ignition. As an aside broke out my fire fighting skills when the earth wire from my headlight switch decided to melt rather quickly. I'm guess I must of connected the earth wire incorrectly :-(. Good news is I saved the car and the brand new garage !
Glad you kept everything under control. I have no diagnosis but will pass this on. Even though I am relatively sure I did it right, when ever I do electrical mods or repair on any of my cars I always undo the battery when I leave it over night until I can monitor the finished work for a few hours the next day. I do similar on house hold projects too.
 
Glad you kept everything under control. I have no diagnosis but will pass this on. Even though I am relatively sure I did it right, when ever I do electrical mods or repair on any of my cars I always undo the battery when I leave it over night until I can monitor the finished work for a few hours the next day. I do similar on house hold projects too.
My new career is Risk Manager so rest assured every mitigation to keep the garage and car intact was done during and post the repair :)
 
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