non Fiat Alternator problem

Janis

Janis

True Classic
I am at the point where am nearly ready to give up and give my car to a service that maybe knows what they are doing :D

Suddenly AKB light went on while driving.
Soldered in another brushes.
They worked for 5 minutes.
One of the rings was bad and decided not to try change another part by part but to buy brand new alternator instead.

Found one, exactly same part nr Valeo alternator that has been renewed by some other company. Sheet of it’s data was included.

Installed it, still AKB light is on and does NOT disappear.

With all light off at idle Voltage is slowly dropping, no matter where I test it, at alternator terminals or battery.

When rev the engine to ~2000rpms Voltage climbs to ~12.8 ; at 4500 rpm it is ~14.2V, but AKB light does not turn off at any point.

Battery is ~1 month old, tried to use battery from X, nothing changes.

Cleaned terminals on battery and clamps, cleaned grounds.
Haven’t cleaned any points on positive wire between alternator +terminal and battery +terminal, because intake manifold is in the way to reach anything.

I don’t want to believe that brand new alternator is bad, but that I am missing something, but what? Except more brains 😅

Shoud I give up or may You have suggestions?

*belt is tightened
if that matters Nissan Micra K12 2004 1.2 48Kw

D2E26C06-3EA1-4BB3-B282-83FF73087D60.jpeg
 
Janis said:
I am at the point where am nearly ready to give up and give my car to a service that maybe knows what they are doing :D

Suddenly AKB light went on while driving.
Soldered in another brushes.
They worked for 5 minutes.
One of the rings was bad and decided not to try change another part by part but to buy brand new alternator instead.

Found one, exactly same part nr Valeo alternator that has been renewed by some other company. Sheet of it’s data was included.

Installed it, still AKB light is on and does NOT disappear.

With all light off at idle Voltage is slowly dropping, no matter where I test it, at alternator terminals or battery.

When rev the engine to ~2000rpms Voltage climbs to ~12.8 ; at 4500 rpm it is ~14.2V, but AKB light does not turn off at any point.

Battery is ~1 month old, tried to use battery from X, nothing changes.

Cleaned terminals on battery and clamps, cleaned grounds.
Haven’t cleaned any points on positive wire between alternator +terminal and battery +terminal, because intake manifold is in the way to reach anything.

I don’t want to believe that brand new alternator is bad, but that I am missing something, but what? Except more brains 😅

Shoud I give up or may You have suggestions?

*belt is tightened
if that matters Nissan Micra K12 2004 1.2 48Kw

View attachment 56675
Click to expand...
Love some feedback on this one. My son's girlfriend has a Ford Escape 2004. Alt light on, was killing the battery running. New battery and new alternator as you did (O'Reilly reman), adventure installing (remove caliper, axle, lift engine super fun). 11.9V at the battery after all that. This one has wires to the main central computer module. Like you it may need to go to a pro, hoping for some magic here.
 
Some quick thoughts off the top of my head.
Does that alternator have a internal or external voltage regulator? That might be one source to check. Also I've seen battery/power cables corrode internally, so they appear great outside but they have have a ton of resistance. Check the resistance of all cables/wires. Rebuilt alternators and starters can be dead on arrival. That has been a big problem with units from certain parts stores here. Also there might be something shorted elsewhere in the electrical system that is causing a very high current draw. Use a meter to check every component. Hopefully someone know more about your specific model of car and can be more specific.
 
this fuse link was damaged. it is right behind AKB +terminal, wasn’t visible, that is why didn’t check ot earlier.

soldered it, still nothing.
found a used one 5 minutes from my workplace.

on the way back got in a big puddle at ~45kmh, and it started to charge, light dissapeared. same was after a week ago I washed my car, after washing it charged for about ~15 minutes and then again nothing.

There must be a bad connection somewhere, and water helps it I guess.

After work will change this fuse link, but I do not hope that it will solve the problem.
Need to check underneath of the car where water could solve the problem.
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Ground cable to drivetrain? I'd be adding a jumper cable from the block to the battery (-), that would quickly tell you if the negative side is the problem. On the (+) side, add a strap to bypass the fuse link most cars have on the battery terminal.
 
changed fuse link- nothing

bypassed + and -
still nothing

was in a parking space and waited for a free spot for ~25 minutes, did nothing in that time with car, but AKB light came om and off for few times

problem solved - listed car in the add :D
(I mentioned this problem in the add)
 
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Probably for the best. Nissan is one of the Japanese car companies that have absolutely nothing remarkable about them, IMO :oops:
 
Rod Midkiff said:
I saw a you-tube video on someone working on a new car's charging system. they involve the ECU with the charging process. way too many complications.

Click to expand...

Worse than that, I think 2018 (or 2019?)-on, the cars have to turn off when coming to a stop. I couldn't drive a car that does that. I'm just visualizing the wear to the starter & flywheel. Besides that, many cars now need (dealer) software interface just to change brake pads, since they have electronic parking brakes. I'm hoping I can keep my C30 alive for as long as I need to keep driving....
 
lookforjoe said:
Worse than that, I think 2018 (or 2019?)-on, the cars have to turn off when coming to a stop. I couldn't drive a car that does that. I'm just visualizing the wear to the starter & flywheel. Besides that, many cars now need (dealer) software interface just to change brake pads, since they have electronic parking brakes. I'm hoping I can keep my C30 alive for as long as I need to keep driving....
Click to expand...
I am now near to be C30 owner :D

Can’t decide between VW Polo 2010+ or C30 . C30 is cheaper but unfortunately only with diesel engine available here.

Another option is e30 touring, but am trying to resist this idea.

e30 in the link 🥲

SS.LV - BMW 318 - Sludinājumi

m.ss.lv m.ss.lv

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I love my C30, however it is 2.5l Turbo (from Focus RS) AWD and over 300BHP. I can't imagine driving one of the European small displacement versions, however the car itself is a great handling car.
original_eac02139-5f91-4345-9447-5d25e1869afd_IMG_20201010_112928.jpg
 
Scirocco here costs 6000€ to 8000€
That would be my first choice, but is more than am willing to spend on a car.
 
This is the one I bought, haven’t had so new car ever 😅 2012 Polo 1.6tdi 90hp
Unfortunately fuel consumption is so low that I will be less motivated to choose X19 for long drives. My first diesel.
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ok, back to topic, I can’t leave this onsolved 😅 otherwise it will be hard to sleep at nights

gave Micra for service
they told that old one pin alternator has been modified to work with two pin wiring

maybe, can’t argue as am not smart enough for that

but they quldn’t tell then why this new one pin unmodifies alternator sometimes work, sometimes not.

will try to bench test old one

and can I attach a seperate bulb from car’s wiring to make this one pin altermator work?

they told that don’t see any issue on car or that new alternator, just that they are not comptible 🤷‍♂️ dont believe them blindfully while it is not charging
 
I can't help specifically but I agree with you...what they said sounds questionable. As you say, so why does it work sometimes? And if getting things wet helps, then that's not the alternator but something else. A 2 or 3 wire hook-up would not change when wet. So I think they are wrong. Based on repair shops here, that doesn't surprise me though. :rolleyes:
 
few options are excluded
1.alternator is appropriate, altough workshop that told otherwise could not tell then which there should be instead
2.old alternator works by DIY test method on bench
3.tried to put bulb for charging on seperate wire- it did exaclty same thing

from that I can conclude that problem is in the car, not battery or alternator.

As once on X19 problem for similar problem was some error of fancy lighting on turbo pressure clock.

Will try to take out all the fuses that are not vital for engine running, if problem dissapears it will be easier to see the loom where it is by putting fuses back.
 
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