Non Fiat content, but looking for advice.

fastx19

fastx19

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All. I have a Suzuki 2.7 V6 I am changing the timing chain on.

Besides it taking just a bunch of time, nothing very hard to do.

However, I have a big problem now and I am looking for any other ideas.

Near the bottom of the block (it's an aluminum block) there is a chain guide held in by two very small bolts. I finger tightened both, then did a 1/4 turn on both. It only needed to be torqued to 8ft lbs. First one, no issue. Second one, snapped off. Its about 1/16" recessed in the block.

I have tried to drill it out and use an easy out, but the bolt is very small, and the drill keeps falling off to the side.

I also don't have the ability to get straight on it. The radiator and AC rad is in the way.

My last ditch effort will be to try and use a welder. Fill it with weld, put a nut on top of it then weld the nut to it as well.

Otherwise, I will have to pull out the engine. Not something I can do in my back yard in the dirt.

Anyone else have any other ideas?

Thanks.

Eric.
 
Without really knowing the particulars of the design, is it possible to forget it and just have the other bolt do whatever these bolts do? It must not be too vital if it is that small and has that little torque.

As for the welding technique. At the last SEMA Show I saw a kit for removing broken exhaust studs from Chevy LS engines that basically does what you said. A jig aligns a nut over the broken bolt and you weld them together, then remove it with the nut. Because I'm not interested in Chevy's I did not pay attention to the details and don't remember the company name. But maybe you can find something about it online. Might offer some tips.
 
Dr.Jeff said:
Without really knowing the particulars of the design, is it possible to forget it and just have the other bolt do whatever these bolts do? It must not be too vital if it is that small and has that little torque.

As for the welding technique. At the last SEMA Show I saw a kit for removing broken exhaust studs from Chevy LS engines that basically does what you said. A jig aligns a nut over the broken bolt and you weld them together, then remove it with the nut. Because I'm not interested in Chevy's I did not pay attention to the details and don't remember the company name. But maybe you can find something about it online. Might offer some tips.
Click to expand...
If the bolt didn’t bottom out, it could be loose enough to “pick” it out! Several times i’ve Grabbed the drill and the so called “easy out” ready for battle to find the broken piece loose and just turned it out with a pick. Patience plays a big role as well. Good luck!!!
 
Chris in Canada said:
If the bolt didn’t bottom out, it could be loose enough to “pick” it out! Several times i’ve Grabbed the drill and the so called “easy out” ready for battle to find the broken piece loose and just turned it out with a pick. Patience plays a big role as well. Good luck!!!
Click to expand...

Even if it's bottomed out the pick and a small hammer (or wrench) can be used to free it. Usually there's a high spot on the break that you can use to hold the pick or small punch against and tap the pick to turn it.
As noted patience is important here.

Note to Jeff: The bolt is holding a cam chain guide/slider. Not usually something that can be left out.
 
We had a similar circumstance on a 124 last year where one of the bolts snapped off, what was left was so loose we could take the broken off end, put it onto the broken threaded portion and just turn it out.

A pick or small cold chisels should allow you to turn it out.
 
I wish I could pick it out. I am going to try the welding technique tonight. Andy was kind enough to loan me the welder. Will let you all know.

Thanks again!
 
I would put a lot of effort into trying the pick, punch, tapping before I would move to the welder.

would suck to have a problem with the welder that makes it worse.
 
Rod Midkiff said:
a problem with the welder that makes it worse
Click to expand...
Like welding the broken bolt into the hole. :( If it is recessed it may be rather tricky to weld it.
I suppose worst case scenario, you could completely weld the hole shut and then drill and tap a new one.
I imagine there must be some clever tricks on the internet for this kind of situation.
 
Well, here is where I am at. First problem is access. I don't have a lot of it and I am really trying to avoid removing the engine as I am in the back yard on grass. First attempt, I -think- I have good weld to the broken bolt, however I bought a nut which as too small, so when I tried to weld it to the numb sticking out of the block, the wire wants to weld the top of the nut. So, I will get a larger nut tonight and give it a shot. I am also thinking about what Jeff said and maybe if it all fails, weld on a stud and call it good. I will try and post some photos for you tonight.
 
The important thing is that another Suzuki is saved and placed back on the road. There simply isn't enough of them that have survived and we are hoping to hear you can get this one going again. :D

But seriously, hope it works. ;)
 
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