Panda Headlight Switch Relay Questions

Regan Burba

True Classic
I think I might give the Panda headlight switch and relays to convert it a try. I am however rather confused by the wiring diagrams that explain how to do it and could use some help. I have been looking at the diagram below and also one completed by Bob Brown on Wiki. A few questions I have for now (probably more to come) are,
1) Where does the power come from to feed the switch? Is it the power feed to the existing switch which I believe is the white wire? If so does the output from relay 2, 87 (white wire) also go to the existing white power wire? Bob Brown’s diagram appears to support that.

2) Where does the wire from A3 go to? The notes indicate it goes to relay 4, but where does it attach?

There was also another diagram made up by a member that I would like to look at but it indicates that it is on photo bucket and I cannot access it. I did a screen shot of the diagram below to post it, hope that’s ok.
Any help is appreciated.


0B4CFD79-47CB-4D20-A14A-310F59A02525.png
 
I think I might give the Panda headlight switch and relays to convert it a try. I am however rather confused by the wiring diagrams that explain how to do it and could use some help. I have been looking at the diagram below and also one completed by Bob Brown on Wiki. A few questions I have for now (probably more to come) are,
1) Where does the power come from to feed the switch? Is it the power feed to the existing switch which I believe is the white wire? If so does the output from relay 2, 87 (white wire) also go to the existing white power wire? Bob Brown’s diagram appears to support that.

2) Where does the wire from A3 go to? The notes indicate it goes to relay 4, but where does it attach?

There was also another diagram made up by a member that I would like to look at but it indicates that it is on photo bucket and I cannot access it. I did a screen shot of the diagram below to post it, hope that’s ok.
Any help is appreciated.


View attachment 27960
Hello Regan

did you get a reply to your post? The same questions have been troubling me too and I have to make the conversion.

Thanks

RDS
 
The power for the Panda switch just needs to come from a good 12V source somewhere under the dash. It not from any of the wires that are in the wiring harness to the X1/9 switch. You need a constant 12V source, not switched. You could tap into the 12V that goes to the cigarette lighter.

In the original version of the diagram, A3 doesn't connect to anything. I was the one that was doodling on the the diagram so the A3 notation going to relay 4 was just my thoughts, so just ignore those notations.
 
Hello, I have been trying to find notes that I may have taken from when I did the wiring for the switch, unfortunately I can not find them. I tried to check my wiring under the dash but I cannot see very well and was not able to get the switch out. I will do my best to answer your questions. The power source was from the white wire that went to the previous switch. I spliced the white wire to a wire that went to both A1 of the switch and 87 of relay 2. As far as A3 goes, I do have a wire attached to A3 on the switch but I am not absolutely sure where it is going as this is what I could not see. However I do believe A3 is going to the A2 wire that is feeding 86 on relay 2 and 4. It would make sense that this would be correct as it is indicated on the diagram that when the switch is in position 3, A3 would be providing current to A4. If A3 is wired to the A2 wire than A2 would feeding A3 during position 3.
I hope this makes sense and is correct. I am by no means an expert at electronics. When I did this it took a long time to wrap my brain around it, but it was a fun challenge and I got it to work.
 
The power for the Panda switch just needs to come from a good 12V source somewhere under the dash. It not from any of the wires that are in the wiring harness to the X1/9 switch. You need a constant 12V source, not switched. You could tap into the 12V that goes to the cigarette lighter.

In the original version of the diagram, A3 doesn't connect to anything. I was the one that was doodling on the the diagram so the A3 notation going to relay 4 was just my thoughts, so just ignore those notations.
Thanks Rodger; I showed to an electronics friend my diagram of the two alternatives for the white feed: one following your suggestion (with which I agree is the best idea) and the second where i loop out the white wire from the new Panda switch into the relay. His view was that they both work just as well. If that is so, it will save running another 12v fused wire from an already overcrowded fuse-box.

Thanks also Regan; i think the A3 terminal is not connected to anything: with the relays it is not needed. However if a wire is run from A3 to Relay 4 then A2 does not run to Relay 4. This is hinted at in the diagram and I think (?) this allows you to flash driving lights run off the free terminals in the pod hatches, without raising the pods. My pods now (!) raise and drop quickly so I do not think I will make that alteration on top of all the other work at this moment.

RDS
 
This is how I wired it: note - I don't have headlamp motors to worry about - that would mean tying the LtBlu into one of the other feeds (Gn, for example)

Can't say much for the quality of the current replacements - I've gone through 2 of the Latvian variety - both fell apart.

9_B736_D54-8_B3_B-4_EA2-9932-347567_AB7_EBD.jpg
 
Thanks Hussein
I have finally managed to get the relay system to work; albeit the engine has to be running for the pods to retract: they will raise with the engine off but the key in RUN and light switch moved to ON, but will not retract when the light switch is moved back to OFF. Does the system voltage difference between running and not running make the difference? It is only about two volts after all.....

RDS
 
I made further tests today: the engine does need to be running to make the pods retract at least on my car. What about anyone else?
 
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