Performing Honda K24a3/AST5 6spd Conversion

[lookforjoe]

so here is what I understand about the 3. Voltage. the nore voltage, the quicker it can open. so the ECU needs to know at what voltage how long does it take to open. Fuel pressure. the more fuel pressure, the quicker it will open, so once again the ECU needs to know this top make sure it opens at the right time. This is my UNDERSTANDING. it may not be right, but it does make sense.

I have learned quite a bit from Evans tuning. I wish I still had the subscription as he was VERY quick to answer questions like these. but $50 a month, I unsubscribed during winter when I havent been able to drive the car anyway. I would recommend him 100% if he teaches on what you are tuning with. he does quite a few systems as well as the basics. you get access to all the past vids which include the basics of each tuning systems as well as he does full vids on dyno tunes and how/why he does what.
I have also found out that there is sometimes a little PFM (pure F**king magic) when it comes to tuning. LOL. really the more I play, the more I learn. as long as I have the limits set correctly and have a warning light for knock, he sad I am pretty safe with playing around.

Odie

I'll have to ask on the KTuner user forum - the admin is the software developer/write so he knows his stuff. At this point, I'm not willing to experiment with tuning, I've done it in the past and every time I have ended up with melted pistons . Admittedly, those were on much less sophisticated EMS & tuning software, so it may well be that the safeguards in place off greater protection, however, as long as it make decent power with the provided tune, I'll leave it to the dyno-tuner to make any refinements. The local KTuner agent also races Hondas & knows this software when it comes to dyno-tuning.

 

[lookforjoe]

Took care of several things today.

Finished cleaning up the mats

Good enough for another year or so

Bled the clutch. Haven't done the pedal box, but wanted to check if the pedal return spring faux-pas was the cause of my bleeding woes. Clutch bled in about ten strokes. Bottle with fluid attached to bleeder. Crack open bleeder, stroke until pedal firms. Check reservoir after each 3-4 strokes. Close bleeder.

Clutch disengages close to the floor, but no matter it works.

Put the driver's seat back in for now. Attached a ground to the pressure sender I'm using for fuel gauge - I realized it wasn't grounding attached to plastic fuel lines
All gauges work, don't know about speedo yet.

With that, I dropped the car & drove it out the garage under it's own steam

Several problems. Engine runs wayyy too rich, and won't idle below 1800rpm.

Worse thing - heater core is now leaking after I cleaned out the heater box drain

Drip Drip Drip

 

[kmead]

Thanks gents

 

[TonyK]

Took care of several things today.

Finished cleaning up the mats

Good enough for another year or so

Bled the clutch. Haven't done the pedal box, but wanted to check if the pedal return spring faux-pas was the cause of my bleeding woes. Clutch bled in about ten strokes. Bottle with fluid attached to bleeder. Crack open bleeder, stroke until pedal firms. Check reservoir after each 3-4 strokes. Close bleeder.

Clutch disengages close to the floor, but no matter it works.

Put the driver's seat back in for now. Attached a ground to the pressure sender I'm using for fuel gauge - I realized it wasn't grounding attached to plastic fuel lines
All gauges work, don't know about speedo yet.

With that, I dropped the car & drove it out the garage under it's own steam

Several problems. Engine runs wayyy too rich, and won't idle below 1800rpm.

Worse thing - heater core is now leaking after I cleaned out the heater box drain

Drip Drip Drip

Had the same problem with Bob Martin's car with the A/C type heater core. First off the hose attachments to the core are made of plastic and warp. Bob found better one's at Matt Brannon's. Then once installed and later in the build the heater control valve failed and I changed it with a universal type. That was covered in my post. So far so good, but all swaps have a few bugs to work through. Nice to see the car running, just a little more persistence and you will be there.

Well done.

TonyK.

Grimsby Ontario Canada.

 

[lookforjoe]

Had the same problem with Bob Martin's car with the A/C type heater core. First off the hose attachments to the core are made of plastic and warp. Bob found better one's at Matt Brannon's. Then once installed and later in the build the heater control valve failed and I changed it with a universal type. That was covered in my post. So far so good, but all swaps have a few bugs to work through. Nice to see the car running, just a little more persistence and you will be there.

Well done.

TonyK.

Grimsby Ontario Canada.

Do you know approx where in your thread the heater core was covered? Does the whole dash have to come out to do this?

 

[kmead]

Sorry I misread your post, my brief narrative below references just changing the valve.

I did undo the lower covers of the AC box but couldn’t get the lower cover off to remove the valve off the back which suggests it would be very difficult to pull the core. You may be more ingenious than I, ok you are more ingenious than I.

I did my valve in place. The hardest thing was undoing the two philips screws that hold the valve/bracket assembly to the bracket on the back of the box. I was able to modify the end of the cable to work with my valve/bracket in the wheel well area and then install it onto the existing hoses. I did not reattach the valve to the heater box as to me it seemed the hoses located it just fine.

 

[rx1900]

With that, I dropped the car & drove it out the garage under it's own steam

Hey Hussein - HUGE congrats on reaching that milestone !!!!

 

[TonyK]

Sorry I misread your post, my brief narrative below references just changing the valve.

I did undo the lover covers of the AC box but couldn’t get the lower cover off to remove the valve off the back which suggests it would be very difficult to pull the core. You may be more ingenious than I, ok you are more ingenious than I.

I did my valve in place. The hardest thing was undoing the two philips screws that hold the valve/bracket assembly to the bracket on the back of the box. I was able to modify the end of the cable to work with my valve/bracket in the wheel well area and then install it onto the existing hoses. I did not reattach the valve to the heater box as to me it seemed the hoses located it just fine.

First off is the core or the hose attachments? If it is the attachments follow the heater hoses on the right side and you will see 2 90 degree elbows made of plastic. The gaskets and mating surfaces will leak at his location. You do not need to remove the heater box or core to address this issue if the leak is there. Apart from that, if it is the core the dash and heater box need to be removed from the car.

TonyK.

Grimsby Ontario Canada.

 

[lookforjoe]

More today

Given that the injector settings should not be the cause of the rich condition I started looking elsewhere. I also finally figured how to see the main logging window - for some reason it wasn't coming up by default, so I really didn't understand what he meant about viewing the throttle opening by %

This is what I saw with throttle 'closed' (!):

So, it was clear something was seriously amiss with the TPS/TB arrangement, since at that point I had backed off the throttle stop.

Put that aside for a bit to think about options, and finsihed the exhaust heat shield with sections of drip guard from HD

2 pieces rivetted together

rivnuts in my added crossrail

Tucks in nice & tight, so no edges to slice my wrists on, this stuff is brutal

After that, I removed the TB, and found that the mounting plate that K-Tuned uses for their TPS, does not align with the adjustment range of the TPS. I had to redrill the mount & reposition it to allow for the adjustment window to fall into the 0% range. EDIT: Found this footnote on the K-Tuned website:
" * Please ensure that your TPS sensor is not reading 0 when installed and calibrated. The TPS should be set at 1-2% open, this will ensure your car does not go into fuel cut which occurs when the TPS see a 0% reading."

With that done I was able to get the % down - it's 2% here, but 0% is available once I finish adjustment.

I also found I had a P2185 code for the ECT - which, if Honda is anything like Volvos, will absolutley make it run pig-rich. I'll need to investigate the circuit to make sure I don't have a wiring issue - since the window shows a temp value though, I'm thinking perhaps it just a bad sensor? I'll check the wiring first.

There was also a MAF P0102 code (bloody hell!). Don't know Honda, so not sure what is typical here. The new MAF is not a Honda part, so perhaps it's just questionable quality. Have to research that also. Honda doesn't sell it separate from the TB, same with the IACV. EDIT: MAF is original that is available separately.

 

[lookforjoe]

First off is the core or the hose attachments? If it is the attachments follow the heater hoses on the right side and you will see 2 90 degree elbows made of plastic. The gaskets and mating surfaces will leak at his location. You do not need to remove the heater box or core to address this issue if the leak is there. Apart from that, if it is the core the dash and heater box need to be removed from the car.

TonyK.

Grimsby Ontario Canada.

Hey Tony. Since it's leaking out the AC condensate drain tube on the side of the heater box,and not into the tunnel or cabin, I'm assuming it's the core, no? Ordered a reman from MWB.

 

[kmead]

Does it matter that you are in the Hyundai section of the scanner? I know my reader reads differently for different companies (my Honda versus my VW).

 

[rx1900]

Geez....your IAT ( intake air temp ) is -95 degrees F.??? And I thought it was cold up here today........

 

[TonyK]

Hey Tony. Since it's leaking out the AC condensate drain tube on the side of the heater box,and not into the tunnel or cabin, I'm assuming it's the core, no? Ordered a reman from MWB.

Maybe, maybe not.

Best to check the hose fittings to the core.

TonyK.

Grimsby Ontario Canada.

 

[lookforjoe]

Does it matter that you are in the Hyundai section of the scanner? I know my reader reads differently for different companies (my Honda versus my VW).

That's the generic setting it goes to. I can't select manufacturer with that scanner.

I'll try it later with the OBDlink I have to see if it makes a difference

Geez....your IAT ( intake air temp ) is -95 degrees F.??? And I thought it was cold up here today........

IAT was not plugged in at that point, I had removed the TB & only plugged back in the TPS, IACV and MAP.

 

[lookforjoe]

Maybe, maybe not.
Best to check the hose fittings to the core.
TonyK.
Grimsby Ontario Canada.

OK I'll see what I can see back there. Thank you Tony.

 

[TonyK]

OK I'll see what I can see back there. Thank you Tony.

The fittings are not at the back but rather to the passenger side foot well.

TonyK.

Grimsby Ontario Canada.

 

[lookforjoe]

The fittings are not at the back but rather to the passenger side foot well.

TonyK.

Grimsby Ontario Canada.

So, under the AC line fittings?

 

[TonyK]

So, under the AC line fittings?

Yes and a bit forward if I remember correctly. Just follow the hot water hoses to the heater core and take a good look there.


TonyK.

Grimsby Ontario Canada.

 

[lookforjoe]

Yes and a bit forward if I remember correctly. Just follow the hot water hoses to the heater core and take a good look there.
TonyK.
Grimsby Ontario Canada.

Looking in the manual (501.03, page 50-17), it shows where the heater hose attaches to the plastic pipe/fitting, what I can't visualize is where there would be a gasket - it's not shown in the workshop manual. Did you ever take pics of that by chance?

This is my pic of the area

EDIT: Just found the link to LarryC's AC box rebuild No pics of the heater core / outlet attachment though

 

[lookforjoe]

Looks like P2185 (sensor 2) is NOT the main sensor in the head - it's a second sensor in the rad. Since I don't have this, I need to figure out where it would be wired & either add one or bypass/fool the system. I don't recall seeing the wiring for that one.

EDIT:

E12 is the ECU signal input/ground for the cooling fan. The manual describes it as a "switch', not a 'sensor'. Not sure what to do with this, and if it could even be related to the rich condition.