lookforjoe
True Classic
Body side - power, ground, dimmer circuit for illumination, sender signals
Installed. Need to get black machine screws, the stainless isn't going to work for me
Last edited:
Performing Honda K24a3/AST5 6spd Conversion
- Thread starter lookforjoe
- Start date
Body side - power, ground, dimmer circuit for illumination, sender signals
Installed. Need to get black machine screws, the stainless isn't going to work for me
lookforjoe
True Classic
Finished wiring the speedo healer and put the console back in after making an adjustment to the shifter that was affecting the 4-5 shift. Darin - I'll test the Fiat speedo with this & see if in fact it will work. My tach has never been accurate, so you may still be able to do it this way (Punto speedo/X1/9 face) Have to reset the value
Last edited:
lookforjoe
True Classic
Finally got the bushing (turned down to match stock OD, bored to 9/16 (.002" over) and new 9/16" stainless steel shaft from the machine shaft, $180 later....
Dual brake Master Thread
hopefully get it in the car during the coming week, along with the heater core (maybe, don't really need that yet
)
Welded the shaft to the clutch pedal, then put the pedal assembly together, set to center on the bias bar.
Dual brake Master Thread
hopefully get it in the car during the coming week, along with the heater core (maybe, don't really need that yet
)
Welded the shaft to the clutch pedal, then put the pedal assembly together, set to center on the bias bar.
Last edited:
lookforjoe
True Classic
Figuring out the gauge layout with the Marshall Speedo & Tach. Has to fit 14 7/8" x 4.125", difficult to get the 4 52mm in that space. I'll move the speedo / tach closer together to gain a touch of space for the small gauges
in the low 20's today, but sunny & dry, so I took it out to make sure the new cam gear is good.
Maybe this year I'll get the stripes done
Got it on a lift after that, no leaks I can see
in the low 20's today, but sunny & dry, so I took it out to make sure the new cam gear is good.
Maybe this year I'll get the stripes done
Got it on a lift after that, no leaks I can see
Last edited:
lookforjoe
True Classic
Thatsa nice!
How was the drive since you clearly needed to get it all heated up. The exhaust stainless certainly looks like it has been heat cycled
It runs well, except I had the wrong maps loaded for the cam angle. I'll take it out again during the week with the correct maps.
Today I spent some time on the cluster layout.
This is how I had it mocked up in cardboard - not going to work with my steering wheel
holesawed out the gauge holes, with the 52mm gauges reversed
Checking the gauge clearance in the aperture. not sure how I'm going to finish the surface. Still have to figure out all the idiot light arrangements
Last edited:
lookforjoe
True Classic
Thanks for the suggestion. I have a large roll of the CF-vinyl, I had used it on my Volvo years ago
I decided to leave it aluminum, so I just clear-coated it
Hard to photograph from the actual viewing angle - it's actually better than this
laborious work for me, getting the wiring done. Replacing the spades with AMP Mini-Timer
Still have to add 8-10 wires for the speedo & tach .
Last edited:
lookforjoe
True Classic
Finished the cluster wiring today, and got most of the dash rewired also.
Clock was dead, so I dismantled it & soaked mechanism with mineral oil. Tested with a 14v power supply, and got it working again
Not sure what these wires were meant for, they don't seem to be active - only thing I can find is the non-AC blower motor wiring
All rewired with JPT mini-timer connectors. Wired the dash directional indicators to the L & R feeds, with diodes to prevent feedback (blue & blue/blk) instead of the single L/R combined violet wire from the Hazard relay.
Just have to add 5-6 ground wires
GPS connection
adding additional +15, +30 and illumination feeds
Still have to rewire the keyless entry and stereo harnesses
Clock was dead, so I dismantled it & soaked mechanism with mineral oil. Tested with a 14v power supply, and got it working again
Not sure what these wires were meant for, they don't seem to be active - only thing I can find is the non-AC blower motor wiring
All rewired with JPT mini-timer connectors. Wired the dash directional indicators to the L & R feeds, with diodes to prevent feedback (blue & blue/blk) instead of the single L/R combined violet wire from the Hazard relay.
Just have to add 5-6 ground wires
GPS connection
adding additional +15, +30 and illumination feeds
Still have to rewire the keyless entry and stereo harnesses
Last edited:
dcioccarelli
Dominic Cioccarelli
Thanks for the suggestion. I have a large roll of the CF-vinyl, I had used it on my Volvo years ago
I decided to leave it aluminum, so I just clear-coated it
Hard to photograph from the actual viewing angle - it's actually better than this
Looking good! The only issue with leaving the aluminium look is that it could be too reflective if the sun is behind you. Other options would be a hammertone or crinkle paint to match the retro look of the gauges, or even swirled aluminium like this (although again, might be too reflective):
Cheers,
Dom.
lookforjoe
True Classic
Finished the wiring & put it all together. Added a large ground cluster under the driver's side. I have 7 separate grounds for the gauges, idiot lights and sensors.
Mileage on car at this point: 139683 ( far as I can tell from my pics of old cluster)
Had to pull it apart again, as I didn't check the tach calibration/setting for # of cylinders
All good now
Drove it around on mixed roadways for about 16 miles (oil temp is not hooked up yet).
Didn't like the window switches laying on the floor. Couldn't decide what to do with them, then I realized they are about the same size as two of the console switches, so I cut out the end sections and fitted them there
Looking around, I see the shifter unit is leaking where it is fitted to the casing. Have to pull the gate assy & fix that.
Mileage on car at this point: 139683 ( far as I can tell from my pics of old cluster)
Had to pull it apart again, as I didn't check the tach calibration/setting for # of cylinders
All good now
Drove it around on mixed roadways for about 16 miles (oil temp is not hooked up yet).
Didn't like the window switches laying on the floor. Couldn't decide what to do with them, then I realized they are about the same size as two of the console switches, so I cut out the end sections and fitted them there
Looking around, I see the shifter unit is leaking where it is fitted to the casing. Have to pull the gate assy & fix that.
Last edited:
lookforjoe
True Classic
Yeah, unfortunately not. It's wet all around the underside, dry on top where the vent would dump it, just not a good angle to photograph
I had to drill & tap the two rearward mount holes. I must have not cleaned the surfaces well enough when I redid the transaxle looking for the locked diff
lookforjoe
True Classic
CEIKA parts with the revised offset came a couple days ago, so I put the front brakes on
figuring out the remote bias adjuster setup
Needs the jamb nut put back to retain the cable nut, although the instructions say to remove it...
No evidence of any leaks or wiring issues so I put the spare well cover in today, I've been driving around with it open.
figuring out the remote bias adjuster setup
Needs the jamb nut put back to retain the cable nut, although the instructions say to remove it...
No evidence of any leaks or wiring issues so I put the spare well cover in today, I've been driving around with it open.
Last edited:
lookforjoe
True Classic
lookforjoe
True Classic
After I dropped the pedal assy & swapped out the clutch MC feed hose for a section of EPDM & put it all back together, I removed the shift gate assembly to take care of the seepage around the mount plate. Part of the problem was the 4 bolts were barely tight - so I guess I didn't torque them down when I put it back together.
Additional problem is that the fluid comes up around the 2 original mount holes no longer used for the earlier shift gate.
I used a couple M6 grub screws with loctite to seal them off
This outer one is the main issue, as it sits outside the land of the cover/housing by a smidge - should be all good now
Additional problem is that the fluid comes up around the 2 original mount holes no longer used for the earlier shift gate.
I used a couple M6 grub screws with loctite to seal them off
This outer one is the main issue, as it sits outside the land of the cover/housing by a smidge - should be all good now
lookforjoe
True Classic
Put the new wheels on, the old ones don't clear the front brakes without more than 1/2" spacer, so I'm not using them at this point
Forgot to put the rear ceter caps on...
while I had it jacked up to put the rears on, I looked around to check for leaks, and the source of the rattle/clunk I was hearing when cornering.
No evidence of anything rubbing, except the corner of the trans case up against the inner frame rail (area Rodger pointed out) - where I obviously didn't push it out far enough. The other thing I found was that the exhaust can rotate too much - the three mounts I made aren't enough - I had to add a fourth to counter the rotation under load allowed by the flex coupler.
The problem is that now I've rotated it back to where it should be, the coupler leaks So, I need to get a new one....
After that, I worked a little on my digital clock revision - since I have a old school clock in the cluster now, I'm changing the factory one to a digital ambient/interior temp gauge, in blue to match the voltmeter
Drilled a pass-though so the probe sits through the facia, above the display
Forgot to put the rear ceter caps on...
while I had it jacked up to put the rears on, I looked around to check for leaks, and the source of the rattle/clunk I was hearing when cornering.
No evidence of anything rubbing, except the corner of the trans case up against the inner frame rail (area Rodger pointed out) - where I obviously didn't push it out far enough. The other thing I found was that the exhaust can rotate too much - the three mounts I made aren't enough - I had to add a fourth to counter the rotation under load allowed by the flex coupler.
The problem is that now I've rotated it back to where it should be, the coupler leaks
So, I need to get a new one....
After that, I worked a little on my digital clock revision - since I have a old school clock in the cluster now, I'm changing the factory one to a digital ambient/interior temp gauge, in blue to match the voltmeter
Drilled a pass-though so the probe sits through the facia, above the display
Last edited:
darwoodious
Darin Nelson
Yes. Skids, donuts, burnouts etc videos are called for sometime in the next 6 months. Let the man get his tune correct first so he doesn't burn out another engine!
lookforjoe
True Classic
Fitted the ambient temp gauge. May need to figure out how to dim it.
Swapped out the AEM WBO2 sensor - it reads 1 pt leaner than the EMS output when hot. Same sensor as Volvo C30, so I had a spare (EDIT - AFR discrepancy ended up being due to exhaust leak between sensors )
While I was back there, I swapped out the VDO OP sender for the Fiat-appropriate unit from MWB
putting back the cover panels
Swapped out the AEM WBO2 sensor - it reads 1 pt leaner than the EMS output when hot. Same sensor as Volvo C30, so I had a spare
(EDIT - AFR discrepancy ended up being due to exhaust leak between sensors )
While I was back there, I swapped out the VDO OP sender for the Fiat-appropriate unit from MWB
putting back the cover panels
Last edited: