lookforjoe
True Classic
Looks to be a Z28 Camaro.
Yes you're right - Trans AM, Camaro Z28, all the same to me
Looks to be a Z28 Camaro.
I'm scanning through your post here and saw this comment. I might have something to add here.So, I'm trying to understand what about the t/stat is causing the flow restriction.
On Pete's car, I had to use the crappy K-tuned single-acting unit, and on all subsequent cars I used a Lancia Beta thermostat because it was a discrete self-contained unit that I could package well into the cramped space between the engine and firewall under the intake manifold.
I'm scanning through your post here and saw this comment. I might have something to add here.
One battle I fought on the X1/9 K20 conversions was that the bypass circuit had less resistance than it ought to compared to the radiator circuit. The bypass circuit was basically normal for a K20, but the radiator circuit had an additional 15' or so of tubing to push the coolant through. Only on one of the cars that I built did I have the luxury of using the Acura thermostat. On Pete's car, I had to use the crappy K-tuned single-acting unit, and on all subsequent cars I used a Lancia Beta thermostat because it was a discrete self-contained unit that I could package well into the cramped space between the engine and firewall under the intake manifold. In some cases, I placed a restrictor in the bypass circuit, reasoning that even reduced flow through the bypass circuit was sufficient to clear any air bubbles and allow the engine to reach operating temperature safely before the thermostat began to open.
Were you observing temperature fluctuations before your head gasket failure?
Mercury leak! Holy crap!the temp became an issue once I developed the HG leak.
Yeah, the K-tuned unit caused a problem with the car slowly overheating anytime the revs were below about 3200. So at idle, stuck in traffic, loping along in 6th on a slower freeway, etc. I quickly switched to the Beta dual-action unit, and my temps have been rock solid ever since.
Hi - thank you for the input - no, the temp became an issue once I developed the HG leak. I also used a Volvo t/stat housing of similar design to the stock Honda unit & mounted it to the water housing in the stock configuration for all I/O at the water housing.
I also modded the VW pressure cap to open at 4-5psi instead of 15+, that helped - but I have taken the precaution of bleeding the rad after every day of driving to relieve the combustion pressure being added to the system. I also run Evans Waterless, not standard coolant/water mix.
I understand. Maybe I missed something. Why are you thinking that the current tstat is a problem/restriction?
That seems permissible since the coolant can operate without pressure, but it also seems that the low pressure would make bleeding the system more difficult. I remember occasionally having to use every trick I could think of to bleed an X's cooling system and needing full operating pressure to push the air out.
I used the newer K-Tuned dual action thermostat with my build but I did tap in another port for the heater circuit. I have had no overheating and no leaks with mine. Granted, I do not have a ton of miles yet but it did not have any cooling issues during my dyno session.Being frank here: the car shouldn't have left the shop with that cruddy tstat on it. It was bad news from day one. I hear that K-Tuned has since fixed their housing and have gone to a dual acting thermostat. If true, that's great--and I also hope that they fixed their housing's tendency to leak constantly. I think I took to putting a shmear of pipe dope between the articulating parts of that housing to try to help it not leak.
I used the newer K-Tuned dual action thermostat with my build but I did tap in another port for the heater circuit. I have had no overheating and no leaks with mine. Granted, I do not have a ton of miles yet but it did not have any cooling issues during my dyno session.
Yes, the reduced pressure cap would make bleeding more difficult in normal circumstances, but I have increased pressures right now from the HG blowby - so I have to keep bleeding the rad if I continue to drive it at this point.
JDM. US is a little lower, but still (EDIT) 4.7:1 (!), I believe. 4.10:1 or 3.98:1 would be preferable. I mean, it's not the end of the world since I have no reason to be driving well over 100 anyway. 100 is still ok in terms of rpm's in 6th
Hussein, you are so close to the answer it will hit you in the face when I tell you the solution. Abarth swap has the same issue, solution, install the X1/9 idle up AC air valve. The ECU will see the change in MAP value and adjust the injectors accordingly. Feed the solenoid valve from the clutch wire of the AC compressor. On the Abarth it works so fast that you really have to pay attention to a very small hiccup in the idle.
TonyK.
Grimsby Ontario Canada.
I know I'm late to this party, but have you played with the duty cycle on the Honda idle air control? I turned down the duty cycle on the K swaps I did that had Hondata. It smoothed out the idle considerably.
Could be worse! Integra Type R transmissions have a 5:1 ring and pinion.
Pete is right; those JDM cars are geared purely for acceleration. Shorter tires make K swapped Xs a little worse, but not a lot.
In the end, I had to put a smaller TB on it, and a Honda-packaged IACV. The 80mm was just too large.
Started prepping for drivetrain removal. Took out the trunk panels, dropped the exhaust, and removed the AC compressor.
Flange is not flat - gasket has leaked at either end. P2R makes a thicker (1.6mm) graphite gasket to replace the stock metal one. The flange isn't that warped - but enough for this to have happened
After I got done with my header mods, my flange was significantly not flat. I was able to find a general machine shop that could mill it back to flat. The automotive shops couldn’t do it.Flange is not flat - gasket has leaked at either end. P2R makes a thicker (1.6mm) graphite gasket to replace the stock metal one. The flange isn't that warped - but enough for this to have happened
Did you notice the cracks in the header primaries? Do you purge your stainless welds? Without purging, that black chromium oxide that forms on the inside of the tube will lead to premature failure.
After I got done with my header mods, my flange was significantly not flat. I was able to find a general machine shop that could mill it back to flat. The automotive shops couldn’t do it.