lookforjoe
True Classic
All I got to today was removing the shifter assy & cutting/welding the modded (Volvo) lever I made
30759050 Volvo shift knob
30759050 Volvo shift knob
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Performing Honda K24a3/AST5 6spd Conversion
- Thread starter lookforjoe
- Start date
Bjorn Nilson
True Classic
From what Volvo is that shifter? Does it work with cables? I am looking for an option for the C510 gearbox wich is not as easy as I thought. The shifter mechanism from MR2 would work but they seem to be impossible to find here, but Volvo parts are generally available.
lookforjoe
True Classic
The Volvo shifters for all FWD/AWD models since 2000 are cable operated and look like the one on the right - that particular one is from a P1 (C30/V50/S40) - besides the bulky size they won't work in a Fiat as the cables travel forward. The shifter on the left is from the '05 Acura TSX.
The metal shifter in my pics is from the MWB K-swap kit.
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lookforjoe
True Classic
Today I got the shifter & cables back in, the slave cylinder reinstalled, reattached the starter cables, etc., the water pipes back in, made a new plenum gasket, and installed the plenum before I ran out of light
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lookforjoe
True Classic
Hey Yves - I bought it many years ago - but I'm pretty sure it is this model - comes with an arm to stabilize - not really needed on the X - it's cheap for what it is.
Astro Pneumatic 5820
lookforjoe
True Classic
Yves
True Classic
Hussein, I was sure it was you who made it, you are so skillful !
Thank you for the information on the product.
Yves
kmead
Old enough to know better
I wouldn’t be surprised if Princess Auto had one. I bought one at Harbor Freight which is our cheapo tool store. It is not as nice but more than up to the job of dealing with anything in a old Fiat.Hussein, I was sure it was you who made it, you are so skillful !
Thank you for the information on the product.
Yves
A quality pair of 2X4s, some 1x4 for spacers, would also do with some threaded rod, washers and nuts. Just a thought.
lookforjoe
True Classic
Got the TB, air inlet/filter, Header, exhaust back on today
P2R Graphite gasket to offset warped flange
P2R Graphite gasket to offset warped flange
Yves
True Classic
Found similar product in special ...Canadian $
https://outilsquebec.com/index.php?id_product=1357&controller=product&id_lang=1
kmead
Old enough to know better
Effectively the same as the one I have.
Yves
True Classic
Karl, do you like it ?
I thing I will grab one this weekend, product is on sale presently.
kmead
Old enough to know better
I’ve used it once, it did what I needed to. I used a rubber block on the body to ensure it didn’t scratch anything. Depending on the car you may want to use wood blocks to distribute the load further.
lookforjoe
True Classic
Happy Thanksgiving!
Prepped for installing 12" EMPI (# 17-2890-0) limiter straps - going to go from the (bracket previously used for rear swaybar endlink) control arm to the triangle reinforcement forward of the rear crossmember. Not needed to limit travel with strut in place, but when servicing the axles/drivetrain, the CV's are stressed once the strut is disconnected.
Replaced the pwm ECU fan controller with one that has better instructions
DIP:
"So dp1 controls weather Fan1 kicks in at 20% or 40% of its speed (TFL)
Dp2 and 3 control the overall temp range for spool-up to full-speed for Fan1 ONLY; off/off is 35°C-45°C, on/off is 40°C-55°C, off/on is 50°C-70°C, and both on is 60°C-90°C.
Dp 4 (BF1) set to on enables the no/low-speed alarm (buzzer) for Fan1, and Dp5 (BF2) does the same for Fan2. There is no alarm for Fan3. Also take note the two potentiometer on the board are what set/control the speeds for fan2 and 3. They are not tied to the control for Fan1"
Prepped for installing 12" EMPI (# 17-2890-0) limiter straps - going to go from the (bracket previously used for rear swaybar endlink) control arm to the triangle reinforcement forward of the rear crossmember. Not needed to limit travel with strut in place, but when servicing the axles/drivetrain, the CV's are stressed once the strut is disconnected.
Replaced the pwm ECU fan controller with one that has better instructions
DIP:
"So dp1 controls weather Fan1 kicks in at 20% or 40% of its speed (TFL)
Dp2 and 3 control the overall temp range for spool-up to full-speed for Fan1 ONLY; off/off is 35°C-45°C, on/off is 40°C-55°C, off/on is 50°C-70°C, and both on is 60°C-90°C.
Dp 4 (BF1) set to on enables the no/low-speed alarm (buzzer) for Fan1, and Dp5 (BF2) does the same for Fan2. There is no alarm for Fan3. Also take note the two potentiometer on the board are what set/control the speeds for fan2 and 3. They are not tied to the control for Fan1"
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lookforjoe
True Classic
Put all the EMS stuff back in today. Then finished up the shifter & centre console attachment - I installed Rivnuts & did away with the self-tapping screws Fiat used. Also drilled the MWB shift plate for the centre rear hold down screw. I modded the console to accept the Volvo C30 shifter boot. Shifter sits back in the centre with the dogleg mod.
Now the voltmeter is whacked - doesn't register a steady voltage. Nothing wrong with the battery or charging system, So I presume just a failed board. Can't remember where I bought that one
Now the voltmeter is whacked - doesn't register a steady voltage. Nothing wrong with the battery or charging system, So I presume just a failed board. Can't remember where I bought that one
lookforjoe
True Classic
I still have the problem with the coolant temp running well over 190º before the thermostat opens, by then it doesn't come back down to normal op, even with the fan cycling. What I surmise, is that with the T/stat housing extension I had to make to fit the t/stat where it makes sense for my layout, the (stock 180º) T/stat doesn't get up to temp until the head temp is around 210º. The extension is dropping the coolant temp at least 20º at the t/stat.
extension connects to water housing, expansion tank (top) heater return (bottom)
going through spares I have - looking for 160º or 170º
ended up buying a Stant 13376 ( same as MotoRad 234-160 / Gates 33056 ) 160º - drilled a bleed hole & reduced the OD of the bypass shut off to clear the housing base.
Since these are 54mm vs. 56mm of the original Volvo (C30) units, the standard C30 seal doesn't properly locate on the t/stat. I needed a spacer seal to make up the 7mm seal height needed for the P1 t/stat housing cover
Note - the Volvo t/stat oring used with older 54mm t/stats like the 13376 in some models has an external ridge to increase the overall OD where it sits in the housing.
With the 160º t/stat installed, I now have head temps at the water outlet housing of 184ºF, and the rad fan cycles at 190º, right where it's supposed to.
extension connects to water housing, expansion tank (top) heater return (bottom)
going through spares I have - looking for 160º or 170º
ended up buying a Stant 13376 ( same as MotoRad 234-160 / Gates 33056 ) 160º - drilled a bleed hole & reduced the OD of the bypass shut off to clear the housing base.
Since these are 54mm vs. 56mm of the original Volvo (C30) units, the standard C30 seal doesn't properly locate on the t/stat. I needed a spacer seal to make up the 7mm seal height needed for the P1 t/stat housing cover
Note - the Volvo t/stat oring used with older 54mm t/stats like the 13376 in some models has an external ridge to increase the overall OD where it sits in the housing.
With the 160º t/stat installed, I now have head temps at the water outlet housing of 184ºF, and the rad fan cycles at 190º, right where it's supposed to.
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lookforjoe
True Classic
Had a couple hours late this afternoon, so I got the water tunnel end caps done, switched out the front studs for longer version to allow for the deeper spacers needed for the 15's I got from Vick Auto years ago. Leaving those on until I'm done with all the winter work.
Drove the car a few miles just to see how the coolant temps settle, check for leaks, and see how the new final drive and offset shifter feel.
Drove the car a few miles just to see how the coolant temps settle, check for leaks, and see how the new final drive and offset shifter feel.