kmead
Old enough to know better
And?
Performing Honda K24a3/AST5 6spd Conversion
- Thread starter lookforjoe
- Start date
And?
lookforjoe
True Classic
And.... Happy with it, so far. Haven't driven it hard & fast as I'm still in leak-check mode
I do need to get it aligned - not happy with the handling over uneven roadways (which is most NY roads).
lookforjoe
True Classic
More wiring. Needed to clean it all up again with the modded window switch location, and the re-wire for the older style switches.
The issues I needed to resolve - ambient temp gauge resets when directionals are operated. Illumination for extra gauges didn't work. Cluster idiot light flicker when heater valve actuated (fed from orange 15 (hazards, etc..) - I noticed that the factory wiring piggybacks the orange feed all over the place, so the idea was to offload that circuit.
To resolve the voltage drop to the ambient. temp gauge, I added more switched power (15) sources - used the pink and purple-black wires behind the console (30) to provide feed to the relays, which in turn feed the gauges and a couple extra switches I've added. Used one of the orange (15) piggy-backed feed wires to trigger the relays. That should stabilize the current. EDIT - purple black is NOT (+15), it is tied to the ground circuit for flashers, AC relay, etc.
Tidied up the bulb holders for hazard & defrost.
The issues I needed to resolve - ambient temp gauge resets when directionals are operated. Illumination for extra gauges didn't work. Cluster idiot light flicker when heater valve actuated (fed from orange 15 (hazards, etc..) - I noticed that the factory wiring piggybacks the orange feed all over the place, so the idea was to offload that circuit.
To resolve the voltage drop to the ambient. temp gauge, I added more switched power (15) sources - used the pink and
Tidied up the bulb holders for hazard & defrost.
Attachments
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lookforjoe
True Classic
Odds & ends. Charge indicator lamp wan't illuminating with key on - that turned out to be the connector at the alternator - took awhile as the wire goes back to the EMS and then loops forward, through the bulkhead & to the cluster. Oil pressure gauge not registering - have to pull the cluster again, the wiring to the dash is intact.
Had to install replacement speakers - the mount tabs snapped off in the accident. I took the ones (6.5" + tweeter) from the doors in the S40 parts car before I junked it. Not fussy about the cosmetic aspect.
Had to install replacement speakers - the mount tabs snapped off in the accident. I took the ones (6.5" + tweeter) from the doors in the S40 parts car before I junked it. Not fussy about the cosmetic aspect.
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lookforjoe
True Classic
I don't. Thank you for the advice. I will have to come up with something.
lookforjoe
True Classic
There is no water passage in that outer area in the rain? I didn't think that was a dry area.
lookforjoe
True Classic
Put the limiter (EMPI 12") straps in today. 7/16-20 seat belt bolts used to retain them to the control arms where I had the sway bar end links mounted previously. Top bolted through the support web, with a second skin added on the inside, cut from the parts car.
EDIT: they are needed to prevent stressing the Honda CV's when the control arms are not attached to the struts for servicing. With stock struts they would be needed just to prevent damage in normal operation.
EDIT: they are needed to prevent stressing the Honda CV's when the control arms are not attached to the struts for servicing. With stock struts they would be needed just to prevent damage in normal operation.
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lookforjoe
True Classic
autox19
True Classic
I am so watching this thread. I almost did the same thing for the same reason. the driveshaftshop (where I got my shafts) said I am ok at the angle I am at, but ot me it seems too far when unloaded.
Odie
Longitudinal
True Classic
It's a pretty sharp angle for sure. The Bayless coil overs make it better with less droop due to shorter struts, but it's still a bit spooky.
lookforjoe
True Classic
Futzed today. Took the stock intake cover & modded it to fit. Made a standoff on the r/s intake runner flange to support it. Good enough.
lookforjoe
True Classic
Working on the splash shield / air guide
Pre accident
post accident
adding sections to extend coverage on the passenger side, and deflect air below subframe
Pre accident
post accident
adding sections to extend coverage on the passenger side, and deflect air below subframe
lookforjoe
True Classic
Dash is out, wiring is another mess to resolve. Had to cut several wires I had added over the years, improperly routed inside the metal dash supports.
Cluster wires I had to cut -
gn =coolant gauge,
wh-bn = chk eng,
wh-bk = eBrake,
y-r = illumination
All the stuff on the right needs to be relocated so the wiring comes up through the proper location next to the center vent
undecided on whether to rewire all the stalk & ignition switch connectors - I have cut several and separated over the years - everything left works just fine, so I think I'll leave it be for now
Put the center duct and hoses back in after cleaning to make sure wiring is routed appropriately. Hoses need to be ovaled to allow modded cluster to recess without pressing the cluster harness into it, and to clear the stereo in the glovebox on the right
Some extra wires to resolve/repurpose - used to go to original cluster bulbs
vio-wht = flasher
y-r = hazard
pnk-bk = lambda
wh-r = seat belt relay (A7 or A8 on fuse/relaybox)
bk = (31)
Took the dash & heater box out of the parts car - weather was in the 50's today, so I took advantage of it
Saved some of the dash section wiring - it's handy to have for color-matching.
HVAC Mid section housing is too damaged to save (EDIT, fixed it) - broken is several places from earlier removal at some point in it's life - I just want to have these as backups incase my casing has any issues
Stripped & cleaned all the ducts and box sections - needs a new sheet of foam here
Cluster wires I had to cut -
gn =coolant gauge,
wh-bn = chk eng,
wh-bk = eBrake,
y-r = illumination
All the stuff on the right needs to be relocated so the wiring comes up through the proper location next to the center vent
undecided on whether to rewire all the stalk & ignition switch connectors - I have cut several and separated over the years - everything left works just fine, so I think I'll leave it be for now
Put the center duct and hoses back in after cleaning to make sure wiring is routed appropriately. Hoses need to be ovaled to allow modded cluster to recess without pressing the cluster harness into it, and to clear the stereo in the glovebox on the right
Some extra wires to resolve/repurpose - used to go to original cluster bulbs
vio-wht = flasher
y-r = hazard
pnk-bk = lambda
wh-r = seat belt relay (A7 or A8 on fuse/relaybox)
bk = (31)
Took the dash & heater box out of the parts car - weather was in the 50's today, so I took advantage of it
Saved some of the dash section wiring - it's handy to have for color-matching.
HVAC Mid section housing is too damaged to save (EDIT, fixed it) - broken is several places from earlier removal at some point in it's life - I just want to have these as backups incase my casing has any issues
Stripped & cleaned all the ducts and box sections - needs a new sheet of foam here
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darwoodious
Darin Nelson
It's not dry - it's somewhat part of the wheel well, although there is a plastic piece to keep water from getting in there.
I'd direct you to @Rodger 's really good solution.
Sound system install
As part of my K20 build, I wanted to have a nice sound system. As most of you know, the stock tiny rear shelf speakers are pretty weak. I wanted to figure out how to install front and rear speakers, as well as a subwoofer. I have seen several installs of front speakers in the door panels, but...
xwebforums.com
It is a very clever solution. I think I'd omit the "foam blanket" as it would trap moisture. For Rodger it probably doesn't matter as I think he had his inner fender / wheel wells lined with 'Rhino Liner' but the concept is great: 4" speakers with covers. All replaceable. If your speakers crap out, just replace 'em!
I'm doing the same. Radio/music etc not that important when driving in my opinion. This is NOT a commuter car for me so the radio doesn't matter as much. Nice on a road trip tho.
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dllubin
Don
In my car, that area behind the kick panels has always been bone dry. I think the 74 uses a metal panel between the wheel well and that cavity. I read Roger's install and would concur with Darin about the foam blanket, especially if water can get in. If anything, you'd probably want some sound deadening material to make it behave as an "infinite baffle". I cut roughly the same size holes in the metal as Roger but put a particle board baffle in front of the metal. That easily allowed the use of 6.5" speakers instead of 4". I've got some 6" x 9" three way speakers that I might try in there some time.
lookforjoe
True Classic
Many thanks for the link - I didn't recall that aspect of his build at all.
My arches were closed off as part of the Dallara install - so no water will be pushed in from the well - for some reason I thought water/rain etc., could travel through there from above, but there is no reason it would, now I think about the cowl tray, A pillar construction...
I can cut holes for the magnets - these Volvo speakers are pretty large - they also have an additional tweeter that normally mounts high in the door panel - I can add those to the dash so they bounce off the windshield (like earlier gen P80 Volvos) .
I almost never listen to the radio, I've spent too many of the years I've been driving this in 'tuning' mode to bother with music. As you say, for road trips it is nice & that's about the only reason for me to have one
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