lookforjoe
True Classic
Thank you - letting it sit for a few days is not an issue since I'm not in any rush to get this completed.
Performing Honda K24a3/AST5 6spd Conversion
- Thread starter lookforjoe
- Start date
Thank you - letting it sit for a few days is not an issue since I'm not in any rush to get this completed.
lookforjoe
True Classic
Another "Murhpy's Law" concern - the vacuum controller is riveted the mid section casing. No way to remove that with HVAC unit in the car.
My valve works & no sign of diaphragm deterioration, but hey, you never know. I decided to make it removable now.
drill out stock rivets, drill case for M5 rivnuts.
install rivnuts
bolt in place - added a 1/16" 'shim' using the neoprene foam - as the rivnuts sit about 1/16" proud of the surface, I wanted the plate to sit as flat as possible (due to the flex under operation)
inside view. I considered adding some sort of reinforcement, as the case does flex somewhat, howevfder I decided that would be more work than necessary.
My valve works & no sign of diaphragm deterioration, but hey, you never know. I decided to make it removable now.
drill out stock rivets, drill case for M5 rivnuts.
install rivnuts
bolt in place - added a 1/16" 'shim' using the neoprene foam - as the rivnuts sit about 1/16" proud of the surface, I wanted the plate to sit as flat as possible (due to the flex under operation)
inside view. I considered adding some sort of reinforcement, as the case does flex somewhat, howevfder I decided that would be more work than necessary.
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lookforjoe
True Classic
Been heat -cycling the core filled with vinegar) - this is what I got out of it after 2 days. I'll keep at it
wrapped the evaporator pipes to prevent condensate
I removed the carpet to address the floor damage - on the right side it just needs reshaping from the accident - on the left I cannot ignore the rust any longer - I've been putting this off for at least 5-6 years now.
wrapped the evaporator pipes to prevent condensate
I removed the carpet to address the floor damage - on the right side it just needs reshaping from the accident - on the left I cannot ignore the rust any longer - I've been putting this off for at least 5-6 years now.
lookforjoe
True Classic
Yeah - both pans were pushed up at the front - if it had been directly under my feet, I shudder to think how that would have gone
Bjorn Nilson
True Classic
Didn't expect to see that on YOUR car. 
lookforjoe
True Classic
lookforjoe
True Classic
Didn't expect to see that on YOUR car.
I know, right? I do hate this type of rust repair though. Since it wasn't required as part of either the Dallara body or the more recent K20 work, I have left it as long as possible. I have had the new carpet from Henk in my garage attic for going on 5 years now - now way I was going to install it with this mess under it
I do have one other spot to address - which could be the cause of the floor rust in the first place (besides the windshield seal & door seals) - there is a small hole at the cowl next to where the external vent cover is placed (basically behind the wiper motor) that I need to clean up & seal. I found that when the dash was removed.
Once it's all cut out, I will reconstruct the inner sill in a couple of spots & make sure I have a good flange/lip all the way around to attach a new pan to. I will most likely use the Fusor epoxy & rivet the new pan (I bought that about 6-7 years back) in place. I don't want to weld along the inner/tunnel seam. I could epoxy that run & weld the outer at the sill... I'll have to lay it out & see when I get to that point.
It can't be worse than the outer sill/rocker repair I had to do - that was really fiddly, but then that required finesse as it was visible
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lookforjoe
True Classic
Spent all day yesterday working on a S40 for a neighbor - for wheel bearing that required buying a special tool, then had to do brakes & a right axle as well.
out
in...
Anyway, today I got back on the floor, and cut out most of the area to be replaced
have to deal with this
I thought the sheet metal was thicker than this - I have a bunch of metal shelving plates that are closer to .060" - so I think I'll use that to repair the outer areas & inner rocker that fall outside the replacement floor pan area
out
in...
Anyway, today I got back on the floor, and cut out most of the area to be replaced
have to deal with this
I thought the sheet metal was thicker than this - I have a bunch of metal shelving plates that are closer to .060" - so I think I'll use that to repair the outer areas & inner rocker that fall outside the replacement floor pan area
lookforjoe
True Classic
Peripheral rot areas to be addressed:
Used a cold chisel to remove a bunch of this, then used the angle grinder to get a straight edge - I wanted to open it up first so I could see the layer structure
worst of it cleaned up
YUK
This whole lip has to be cut off & cleaned back to make sure I have a good mating surface for the replacement floor pan
Figure I'd take a couple of pics of the dual tandem brake masters & under dash from a view I won't have access to again...
Still have to finish cleaning this after
This is the floor section - bought the pair many years back now - I recall at the time some discussion over them - they were going for a great price - BUT - when you get them, you find out they are not pressed, they are cut. I'm still not complaining, given the price I paid
Takes a fair amount of fettling to get there - cut some off the right side
Doesn't follow the floor curve
fiddle some more to get it to almost fit on the left - pretty big gap top left
couple more snips & manhandling, closed up the gap top left, screwed in place to test fit - Now I can weld the slots then remove & clean up all around, make a new lip on the left & then fit the pan
underside view
Used a cold chisel to remove a bunch of this, then used the angle grinder to get a straight edge - I wanted to open it up first so I could see the layer structure
worst of it cleaned up
YUK
This whole lip has to be cut off & cleaned back to make sure I have a good mating surface for the replacement floor pan
Figure I'd take a couple of pics of the dual tandem brake masters & under dash from a view I won't have access to again...
Still have to finish cleaning this after
This is the floor section - bought the pair many years back now - I recall at the time some discussion over them - they were going for a great price - BUT - when you get them, you find out they are not pressed, they are cut. I'm still not complaining, given the price I paid
Takes a fair amount of fettling to get there - cut some off the right side
Doesn't follow the floor curve
fiddle some more to get it to almost fit on the left - pretty big gap top left
couple more snips & manhandling, closed up the gap top left, screwed in place to test fit - Now I can weld the slots then remove & clean up all around, make a new lip on the left & then fit the pan
underside view
jimmyx
True Classic
I feel your pain. Just finished up both sides with the same crappy pans. Might be slightly better than starting with plain flat stock but not by much. I only had serious rot around the drains so I was lucky not to have to fool with the lip. It's not rocket science, but it does entail endless cutting, hammering, grinding, fitting and welding. Now on to priming, seam sealer, and cutting some drain flaps. Not at all like replacing pans on domestic classics where accurate repop parts make it a 2 hour job per side. No mystery why most everyone puts this job on the back burner for as long as possible.
CnC79X19
True Classic
I second that!Didn't expect to see that on YOUR car.
lookforjoe
True Classic
Tacked the cuts before removing
Removed the remnants of the old floor weld flange - just have to grind it clean
Rocker that needs patching
Additional material to be removed to keep just an inch overlap
Have much to consider with this area - some rust, some damage from when the sway bar ripped off. Very awkward area to weld, for me anyway.
I have cut away some of that & see what I can do. All the rocker work needs to happen before the pan is installed, or I'll never be able to access these properly.
Made a stepped lip for the rear edge - I want the joint with the existing floorpan lip to be lapped - new panel seam faces rearward, on the outside.
Welded the rest of the cut seams. I'll have to do more work on them - I don't want any visible seams from the underside besides to outer perimeter
Main area trimmed out.
Removed the remnants of the old floor weld flange - just have to grind it clean
Rocker that needs patching
Additional material to be removed to keep just an inch overlap
Have much to consider with this area - some rust, some damage from when the sway bar ripped off. Very awkward area to weld, for me anyway.
I have cut away some of that & see what I can do. All the rocker work needs to happen before the pan is installed, or I'll never be able to access these properly.
Made a stepped lip for the rear edge - I want the joint with the existing floorpan lip to be lapped - new panel seam faces rearward, on the outside.
Welded the rest of the cut seams. I'll have to do more work on them - I don't want any visible seams from the underside besides to outer perimeter
Main area trimmed out.
Attachments
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autox19
True Classic
that is so bringing back not so fun memories when I did mine. looking good!!!!
Odie
lookforjoe
True Classic
Used some brazing rod to fill the weld irregularities, then a touch of filler in the dips, then prime. It's good enough for me to move on. Hard to capture the contour in primer. Once it's installed, painted and undercoated, there will be no evidence of the cut seams
This small piece has to be added to align the panel with the rail contour
Only welding I got done today was the patch in the sill. I used 1/8" plate, to match the thickness of the overlapping panels here. The work on the bottom edge I'll deal with from underneath. This is going to be a real pain to take care of the forward section - I can't readily weld from underneath, and working in from the door opening means leaning over, breathing fumes and fogging glasses & mask - all told a nightmare.
This small piece has to be added to align the panel with the rail contour
Only welding I got done today was the patch in the sill. I used 1/8" plate, to match the thickness of the overlapping panels here. The work on the bottom edge I'll deal with from underneath. This is going to be a real pain to take care of the forward section - I can't readily weld from underneath, and working in from the door opening means leaning over, breathing fumes and fogging glasses & mask - all told a nightmare.
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lookforjoe
True Classic
Took me 3 hours(!) to just fit & weld this one patch. Had to further raise the entire car first, so I could get into the floor cavity.
Have to grind the welds down & make the upper layer patch.
Have to grind the welds down & make the upper layer patch.
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lookforjoe
True Classic
This took about 4 hours to get done:
Cut, fit & weld bulkhead extension. I made it drop lower than the original (seam on right), simply because it was easier to weld abutting the weld for the repair section below it. Really awkward to weld. My neck & lower back are really not happy. I put a few large sheets of cardboard on the concrete garage floor, which kept the cold from creeping into me for awhile at least.
I ran out of time, so the grinding & sealing will hopefully happen tomorrow. There still needs to be another patch section where the crossmember meets the rail on the left - that area is not covered by the new floor pan, just a few inches square.
Once it's done, I will spray cavity wax into the that crossmember, and into the left rail
got the two small sill repairs welded up, to make sure the floor pan lip has a uniform & complete area to bond to.
Cut, fit & weld bulkhead extension. I made it drop lower than the original (seam on right), simply because it was easier to weld abutting the weld for the repair section below it. Really awkward to weld. My neck & lower back are really not happy. I put a few large sheets of cardboard on the concrete garage floor, which kept the cold from creeping into me for awhile at least.
I ran out of time, so the grinding & sealing will hopefully happen tomorrow. There still needs to be another patch section where the crossmember meets the rail on the left - that area is not covered by the new floor pan, just a few inches square.
Once it's done, I will spray cavity wax into the that crossmember, and into the left rail
got the two small sill repairs welded up, to make sure the floor pan lip has a uniform & complete area to bond to.
CnC79X19
True Classic
Sweet. Nothing like the smell of grinding metal. Great job Hussein