Performing Honda K24a3/AST5 6spd Conversion

Discussion in 'Workshop Forum' started by lookforjoe, Aug 11, 2019.

  1. Kevin Channer

    Kevin Channer True Classic

    I can understand more Cowbells! but this many clamps...? :) nice work.
     
    lookforjoe likes this.
  2. lookforjoe

    lookforjoe True Classic

    Worked on the opening more today.

    Welded the lip between the inner & outer frame sections. Another mess. I'm having issues with space for a good torch angle, excessive breezes, helmet operation & the fact that my glasses aren't ideal for low light work :( Had to do substantial grind work to get it reasonably clean. I'll have to use some sandable sealer/epoxy on these to clean them up.
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    Worked on the outer frame as well, didn't get any pics of that. Similar weld (and panel distortion) issue along the top edge, it's nowhere near as clean as I would like so fill work will be required there also.
     
    kmead likes this.
  3. Hybridfiat

    Hybridfiat Power costs money, more p

    Location:
    Australia
    lookforjoe likes this.
  4. lookforjoe

    lookforjoe True Classic

    That looks great! I'll look into that. The standard helmets are just so unwieldy, that I have trouble both with viewing area & with clearance working in the tight spaces of the chassis. Obviously that stuff doesn't matter for bench work, so it really hasn't been a serious issue til now.

    EDIT - found one on eBay that is from an NY seller, so I'll have it by the end of the week. Many thanks.
     
    Last edited: Sep 16, 2019
  5. lookforjoe

    lookforjoe True Classic

    Here's the lumpy top seam

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    Took a break from welding. Not sure I'l wait until the new helmet comes, but I will wait until the air is less breezy. So, I started cleaning up the right inner fender area. The lowest seam, against the bulkhead was sealed with some sort of rubber like seal, instead of the usual rock hard yellow stuff. Was a bitch to get it out. I'll work on the panel for that gaping hole tomorrow

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    AC accumulator will be situated in this area

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    Have to weld the pass through also

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    Slapped some fine filler on the weld seams

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    And the cut-off bracket marks, & dents I made on the left, to fill in the hammer marks

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    I'll sand all that back tomorrow & see if it needs more work.
     
    Last edited: Sep 17, 2019
    dllubin likes this.
  6. I hope the Neighborhood Crime Watch doesn't catch the guy who stole their sign and used it for a spare tire compartment cover!
     
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  7. kmead

    kmead Old enough to know better

    Location:
    Michigan
    I have been meaning to comment on that :)

    Not a very effective crime watch group or is the fox watching the hen house?

    My only heartburn on using filler on a weld seam is it will crack over time and allow the ingress of water. I know you want it purty but using seam sealer would be a better solution for longevity in my mind.

    I know it is SS in many areas but the stuff it is welded to is not, getting water in there is not a great future state.
     
    lookforjoe likes this.
  8. Hybridfiat

    Hybridfiat Power costs money, more p

    Location:
    Australia
    You will not believe you eyes the difference between the Optrel and and normal ma.sk is dramatic
     
  9. lookforjoe

    lookforjoe True Classic

    I got a bunch of signs from my son - he picked them up at the community he used to work for as a mechanic/handyman. Actually hadn't paid attention to what they said :D

    I hadn't considered that - why would filler on a weld behave any differently than on a panel, though? I'm using the body caulk wherever the frame sections are welded together, except for that aperture area, simply for aesthetics. My intention is to cut it back so that it simply fills the actual recesses, more than a 'solid' layer. Hmmmm......

    EDIT - this is also U-POL Gold filler, not Bondo :D
     
    Last edited: Sep 17, 2019
  10. lookforjoe

    lookforjoe True Classic

    Cut back the panels

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    Primer to look at irregularities. Mostly OK.

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    Cut a repair panel for the inner fender, from the bulkhead of the parts car

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    Added rivnut for the fuel pump

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    Last edited: Sep 18, 2019
  11. kmead

    kmead Old enough to know better

    Location:
    Michigan
    The difference between a joint and a panel surface is the joint will work over time, ie there will be dynamic movement of the joint which will induce a crack in the rigid filler material which will crack the paint and then allow water into the joint.

    Thus my point.
     
  12. lookforjoe

    lookforjoe True Classic

    Understood. I'm planning on caulking all the other frame/tub welds. Those three, I'll just have to hope the seam weld flexes less than the factory spot weld areas.
     
    kmead likes this.
  13. lookforjoe

    lookforjoe True Classic

    Worked on the right inner fender. Got the repair panel butt-welded in. New Optrel helmet came, it's really nice & also comfortable.

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    I'll caulk this side before paint & undercoat

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    a little filler to level it

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    Have some minor bits to level out, but happy to have the repair welded in.

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    kmead likes this.
  14. lookforjoe

    lookforjoe True Classic

    Work done on the right vertical seam, the right pass-through sleeve, started welding the torque mount plate, and cleaned up the bulkhead and right inner fender. Tomorrow I need to body-caulk all those seams. The car will then have to sit this weekend, I have graduate-level school classes to attend tomorrow night, all day Sat & most of Sun.

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  15. lookforjoe

    lookforjoe True Classic

    Had time before the evening class to caulk the seams & a first coat of red on most of the worked area

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  16. lookforjoe

    lookforjoe True Classic

    Had about 1/2 hour when I got home from class before the light left, so I got a first coat on the inside, and a second in the bay, not that you can tell :D

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    kmead likes this.
  17. TonyK

    TonyK True Classic

    Location:
    Grimsby Ont Canada
    Hussein I purchased an Optrel welding helmet in 1992, solar cell powered, still works like the day I purchased it. Back then it was $400 and I had to purchase it from a welding supplier. It was the first auto dimming helmet on the market. Show us a picture of what they now look like.

    TonyK.

     
  18. lookforjoe

    lookforjoe True Classic

    Tony, it's a soft cap version

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    Finally got the outer upper rail lip welded. I've been avoiding it, as it was a serious PITA to do. Primed & caulked. Tomorrow I can paint that. Just have to trim & weld the pass through tube on the right, then I'll move on to all the stuff on the left side.

    Looking through the Google pic album of the Yellow K20 conversion, I wish I was done already :D

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    kmead likes this.
  19. TonyK

    TonyK True Classic

    Location:
    Grimsby Ont Canada
    The welding mask seems to have a large viewing area. I cannot see if it is variable shade, mine is 9-13.

    Never seen this type of welding mask before. Will have to do some investigating.

    Thanks for the picture.

    Next time I am in the shop I will take a picture of my old helmet.

    Well you peaked my interest. Here is a picture of my old helmet.
    IMG_1568.JPG
    It appears that they still sell something similar. I paid $400 for it at least 25 years ago and a standard helmet was about $60 at the time. Still works fine, no batteries, just works off of the light generated by the Arc. Looking at the web site they have some pretty nice stuff now. Makes me want to spend some money.


    Currently sorting through electrical miswiring issues on Bob's car. In short, the engine will not crank.

    Will get there.

    TonyK.

    Grimsby Ontario Canada.
     
    Last edited: Sep 24, 2019
    kmead likes this.
  20. lookforjoe

    lookforjoe True Classic

    Yes, it does have a larger viewing area than my rigid helmet. Same shade range, 9-13.

    That's not fun. Fault-tracing that (no crank) sounds like a nasty task, given the complexity of the system.

    Got the right side pass through welded on the underside, and seam-welded the control arm mount. Slapped some paint on the areas I caulked yesterday. Added another bulkhead hole on the right, to use for either AC line or wiring, as needed.

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    dllubin likes this.

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