It would seem that attaching the body of the hose to the engine would reduce the fracturing at that point, the compliance would need to come from the vertical section of the flex hose.
The cause would seem to be the excessive rigidity of the #10 hose - and it's a short run, so not much flex going on there - so, the fitting is taking the brunt of it. I've ordered a couple of alternate fittings for that location. I have an earlier iteration hose I made that coupled with a 90º elbow off the compressor, that setup was a much sturdier layout - I removed it because I thought the loop style fitting was more 'relaxed' in terms of stress on the line/fitting. Not sure if there is any practical way to brace the line fitting to the manifold at that point.It would seem that attaching the body of the hose to the engine would reduce the fracturing at that point, the compliance would need to come from the vertical section of the flex hose.
I am wondering if you would be better off running the U's as hose rather than hard line. Hose has virtually no longitudinal flexibility, so your short straight hose runs might be stressing the hard lines.Being a little impatient, I decided to try to fix the AC line - I got it welded OK, but the heat killed the hose/crimp...
View attachment 48899
Wouldn't hold vacuum. Took two other fittings & made one - cut off the beadlock & welded on the MOR fitting from the one shown below
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Combined that with the earlier iteration hose I had made for the low side (didn't care for it as it sits up against the bulk head - however it has more length & more give. It held vacuum & charged just fine, so we'll see how it goes. I still have new fittings on order so I can make an alternate as needed later one. Just want to make sure I have working AC for the drive to MWB Open House next month
View attachment 48900
Back to the idle issue... on the drive home we hit two 30-40min delay zones - crawling, on off gas, and the throttle decided to act up on the 2nd crawl - won't drop below 2K when coming to a stop - most annoying. The car didn't overheat at all though -stayed right at around 200 stationary & dropped once moving. What I did when we got home was to remove thew TB & reset the bobbin tension to a stiffer setting - I assumed the bobbin tension at rest was not countering the pre-load spring in the TPS, and hanging up - sometimes.... Anyway, when I drove it this morning, is seemed better - but then it hung again. Fiddling around the TB & TPS, I found that if I jiggled the TPS connector just so, I could make the IACV surge. I had bought a generic TPS pigtail back when I went through all the TPS nonsense last year. I removed it & replaced with a high quality Sumitomo connector housing & terminals (HX 040 series)
removing pigtail & terminals
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View attachment 48903
recrimp with new termnials
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Seems better, at least it hasn't hung up once in the various drives I took this afternoon. Time will tell on this one.
To your point, getting so some flexibility somewhere is likely to be key. The forward aft motion of the engine with little compliance in the flex hoses from the fixed transitions the flex is going to happen somewhere.I am wondering if you would be better off running the U's as hose rather than hard line. Hose has virtually no longitudinal flexibility, so your short straight hose runs might be stressing the hard lines.
I am wondering if you would be better off running the U's as hose rather than hard line. Hose has virtually no longitudinal flexibility, so your short straight hose runs might be stressing the hard lines.
To your point, getting so some flexibility somewhere is likely to be key. The forward aft motion of the engine with little compliance in the flex hoses from the fixed transitions the flex is going to happen somewhere.
With 20/20 rear view perhaps running the AC lines to the left side of the compartment would have been better for the lines but with all the intake etc likely not possible.
Getting some generous radii would give some of that. Actually having the hard bend transitions isolated from the compressor with flex hose on either end would help a lot in that regard.
That routing would be a last resort - the length of #10 barrier hose that would be needed to get a gentle curve back to the compressor posts would require the line to run in a giant "crook" pretty much over the entire engine (at least). I can't deal with the bay looking like a giant AC hose collection . Have to see how this holds up in use.
I really need to get the oil consumption addressed - I used a quart in 200 highway miles(!). I'm wondering if the fully closed throttle (Larger TB won't set base idle unless TB is essentially closed on these) is causing excessive CC draw. I didn't have this issue originally, with higher idle/ TB not fully closed, even with the bad HG, unless I'm misremembering. I'm going to try eliminating the PCV as a test. Also need to do another leak down & compression test to compare with previous numbers, and check spark plug wear / oil comtamination.
I was thinking a few inches of flex from the compressor to the hard bends and then back to the flex you have, so a few inches longer over the intake side. The rigid connection is likely what is killing the bend parts.
Going aback and reading my note the last line was where I sort of intimated this. I wasn’t clear as I roamed across the possible solutions.
Sorry an aside question, what brand of vacuum pump do you have? It looks like I need to learn a new part of the trade on one of my Honda’s.
Many thanks. You have clearly gotten some good use out of it. Greatly appreciated.Hey Karl
I bought this set up : VIVOHOME 110V 1/3 HP 4CFM Single Stage Rotary Vane Air Vacuum Pump and R134a AC Manifold Gauge