lookforjoe
True Classic
cool - I wouldn't want anything that complex!
Performing Honda K24a3/AST5 6spd Conversion
- Thread starter lookforjoe
- Start date
lookforjoe
True Classic
Talked to the bodyshop - they can do the paint in Nov, so I'll deal with it then
I cleaned up the reinforcement area & welded a standoff the make sure the stud is not pulled unevenly when tightened down through the inner reinforcement. all had to weld the support pin that had either broken free in shipping, or was already free-floating from previous install.
The only thing I have a concern about is a stress crack in the base of one of the standoffs. I have contacted George to get his advice
I cleaned up the reinforcement area & welded a standoff the make sure the stud is not pulled unevenly when tightened down through the inner reinforcement. all had to weld the support pin that had either broken free in shipping, or was already free-floating from previous install.
The only thing I have a concern about is a stress crack in the base of one of the standoffs. I have contacted George to get his advice
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autox19
True Classic
same way i did mine. but I am going to change it and get a fiberglass deck and mold the pedestals in. with 2 bolts each it still moved a bit with wind/speed.
Odie
lookforjoe
True Classic
Discussion Thread
I'm removing the fiberglass lid due to the new header proximity.
I chopped the tie section this afternoon - I wanted to see how much needed to go just to get it in place
shoved into stock hole
cut out a section I hoped would be enough - needs more removed to allow it to pivot against the head
more has to go on the left, a little on the right
cut more out of the right on the bay side, and I/O on the left
right side pipe is very close the torque mount - I'll likely have to revise that
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DanielForest
True Classic
Darling, I just picked some ice cream. It's in the rear trunk...
lookforjoe
True Classic
lookforjoe
True Classic
We do get groceries together in the X1/9 - just for the laughs when ppl watch us approach the car with a cart full of groceries - then proceed to put groceries when the engine 'belongs"
Ann has to carry all cold / frozen goods on her lap - fortunately we live about 2 miles from the supermarket we use primarily.
lookforjoe
True Classic
more cutting
A little extra chamfer off the right
clearance on left
on right side - wiring has to move
REALLY close to torque mount
base of runners have to be revised - can't use the slip joints here- not enough depth for them to clear
Maybe extend the runners and place the 4-2 runners in this area. Definitely going to take some work to get this fitted. I've ordered some 2" mandrel bends to work with on this. Any thoughts on impact of extending the main runner length leading to the 4-2 junctions? I don't see any other way here. The alternative would be to shorten the main runners & try to fit the 4-2 collectors in the main area. I don't see that happening though.
A little extra chamfer off the right
clearance on left
on right side - wiring has to move
REALLY close to torque mount
base of runners have to be revised - can't use the slip joints here- not enough depth for them to clear
Maybe extend the runners and place the 4-2 runners in this area. Definitely going to take some work to get this fitted. I've ordered some 2" mandrel bends to work with on this. Any thoughts on impact of extending the main runner length leading to the 4-2 junctions? I don't see any other way here. The alternative would be to shorten the main runners & try to fit the 4-2 collectors in the main area. I don't see that happening though.
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lookforjoe
True Classic
2" mandrel bends came, so I started cutting the main runners to fit the 90º feeders into the exhaust bay
have to shorten the rear runners more to elevate these two closer to the cross brace
have to shorten the rear runners more to elevate these two closer to the cross brace
lookforjoe
True Classic
Had time today to play with the headers
After several back & forth, I figured out the amounts to cut the rear runners (1,2) back to get the additions high enough for the forward runner extensions to fit below
Once I got all 4 in place I clamped them together & cut all 4 back. That wasn't enough cut back for them to snake in place - marked them in this pic, to show where the next cut needed to be
#3 needed to be raised - so I had to shorten the runner 1/2" to get the lift needed
Clamped all four together to get an even cut through all 4 - the last time they also moved around
Cut on the band saw this time also, instead of with the sawsall
Cut ends all had to be expanded to allow the original slip-fit sections to be used over. Have to weld those into the extensions, then weld 3 & 4 to the headers, then weld 1 & 2. Once that's all secure, I can start to figure out the 4-2 and 2-1 collector placement
After several back & forth, I figured out the amounts to cut the rear runners (1,2) back to get the additions high enough for the forward runner extensions to fit below
Once I got all 4 in place I clamped them together & cut all 4 back. That wasn't enough cut back for them to snake in place - marked them in this pic, to show where the next cut needed to be
#3 needed to be raised - so I had to shorten the runner 1/2" to get the lift needed
Clamped all four together to get an even cut through all 4 - the last time they also moved around
Cut on the band saw this time also, instead of with the sawsall
Cut ends all had to be expanded to allow the original slip-fit sections to be used over. Have to weld those into the extensions, then weld 3 & 4 to the headers, then weld 1 & 2. Once that's all secure, I can start to figure out the 4-2 and 2-1 collector placement
lookforjoe
True Classic
Rodger - can you give me the details on the latest muffler you used - since I need to rework the exhaust, I'd like to try a quieter one also. I can't find your thread at the moment
rx1900
1981 X1/9
Hey Hussein. Looking good !!!!
But.....before you do something you might regret later......you do realize it is critical which primaries you join together in pairs , right ???
And....that it is generally accepted that the secondary pipes be 1/4" bigger diameter than the primary pipes.....and the ending single pipe be 1/4" bigger again. Right ??
But.....before you do something you might regret later......you do realize it is critical which primaries you join together in pairs , right ???
And....that it is generally accepted that the secondary pipes be 1/4" bigger diameter than the primary pipes.....and the ending single pipe be 1/4" bigger again. Right ??
rx1900
1981 X1/9
K20 project off to a good start, volume 2
Really beautiful work. Driving video when you get a chance :) I see you're in the PNW, do you still have the original running gear? In particular the transmission? I'm in the process of accumulating spares. The transmission had a shredded 5th gear. I sold it to another PNW Xer a few years ago...
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Rodger
True Classic
Looks like Doug (@rx1900) posted it. One question, though. Isn't the whole point of the new header design to increase flow and HP? The muffler I used from Solo Performance has packing in it, which, I would think, create more flow restriction than the flow through design of the SSW. Doug knows a lot more about exhaust system design than I do, so he would probably be able to weigh in on this. I don't have any plans for another dyno session with the Solo muffler, so I won't have any objective comparison data, but the car still feels like a rocket to me.
lookforjoe
True Classic
I'm connecting the (approx 1.80" ID) primaries as per the purchased PLM header design - 1 & 4, and then 2& 3 - I just cut up the 4-2 collectors so I don't have to make them from scratch. Same with the (2" ID) 2-1 collector. The single outlet pipe is going to be 2.5" though, not the provided 2.25"
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lookforjoe
True Classic
Yeah- there is that. SInce we are talking basically stock "tweaked' HP levels, I'm not sure it would matter though. I'm not making this for 9K screamer HP. The tuner already pointed out that the intake & header limitations (as I had it) are choking the performance. I'm counting on the header to allow for more ignition & valve timing in the mid to upper range of the K24, which is still lower than the K20 no matter what.
rx1900
1981 X1/9
No Rodger......the packing does not really restrict the flow. As the main exhaust flow does not travel through the packing. The packing is merely around the outside only of a perforated tube or chamber that the exhaust flows through. And just absorbs some of the noise. Picture a long hallway with you standing at one end of it. With someone running down the hallway at you making lots of noise. Now if that hallway was carpeted on floor/ceiling/walls......it would be a lot quieter for you...but doesn't really effect the speed or progress of the runner. It kinda works like that.....
But...that packing in the muffler...having to endure the high temps..is very expensive. And generally very time consuming to install the packing in the manufacturing process. And adds weight. And can retain moisture leading to corrosion. So best when combined with stainless. All adds up to an expensive but quiet performance muffler. Limited market for that.......
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lookforjoe
True Classic
Got another 2 hours in today
got the slip joint situation figured out. Tacked the joints and 4 - 3 runner extensions
Had to remove a section of the crossmember ridge weld to get the header to snake in place - I will seam weld that later
goes in like this...
checking 4-2 collectors in situ
Snug fit - but it tips back/ down under load, so hopefully it won't whack the upper brace too often
I'll have to figure out how to get the 2-1 collectors in place - I'm likely going to have to cut it before the bungs & add the V Band there. I need 14" at least to the left of the flange to fit the cat & "U" bend leading back into the muffler. I don't see being able to make the two pipes equal length, as the 4-2 collectors are currently side-by-side
got the slip joint situation figured out. Tacked the joints and 4 - 3 runner extensions
Had to remove a section of the crossmember ridge weld to get the header to snake in place - I will seam weld that later
goes in like this...
checking 4-2 collectors in situ
Snug fit - but it tips back/ down under load, so hopefully it won't whack the upper brace too often
I'll have to figure out how to get the 2-1 collectors in place - I'm likely going to have to cut it before the bungs & add the V Band there. I need 14" at least to the left of the flange to fit the cat & "U" bend leading back into the muffler. I don't see being able to make the two pipes equal length, as the 4-2 collectors are currently side-by-side
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