Performing Honda K24a3/AST5 6spd Conversion

lookforjoe

True Classic
So, I tried jacking the car in a couple spots - it actually doesn't open up more than .060" over closed gap on either side.

.090" when jacked by the plate intended for the factory jack - that is the gap value I want when on the floor. I spoke to the bodyshop today - I'm going to take the metal trunk lid & Dallara wing to them on Wednesday for paint - and asked him about putting it on a frame machine to open it up an 3/16- 1/8" on the left. He hummed & haaa'd a bit, then said sure, we could work that out. Sounds like the best plan to me, thanks for suggesting it. I honestly thought no bodyshop would want to deal with it, so it didn't occur to even ask.

PXL_20211220_222255997.jpg
 
Last edited:

kmead

Glutton for punishment
So, I tried jacking the car in a couple spots - it actually doesn't open up more than .060" over closed gap on either side.

.090" when jacked by the plate intended for the factory jack - this is the gap I want when on the floor. I spoke to the bodyshop today - I'm going to take the metal trunk lid & Dallara wing to them on Wednesday for paint - and asked him about putting it on a frame machine to open it up an 1/8" on the left. He hummed & haaa'd a bit, then said sure, we could work that out. Sounds like the best plan to me, thanks for suggesting it. I honestly thought no bodyshop would want to deal with it, so it didn't occur to even ask.

View attachment 56106

I am sure he hemmed and hawed because of the risk of possible opening of other joints or causing one of your glued seams to open up. Forcing the body to move always has risks as your off-road adventure demonstrated.

I hope it works out, the gap in your last pic looks very good. I would show that to your body guys as the point under there seems to be the rotation point.
 

lookforjoe

True Classic
I am sure he hemmed and hawed because of the risk of possible opening of other joints or causing one of your glued seams to open up. Forcing the body to move always has risks as your off-road adventure demonstrated.

I hope it works out, the gap in your last pic looks very good. I would show that to your body guys as the point under there seems to be the rotation point.

I took the spoiler there yesterday, and showed him the photo of it jacked to get the gap. He said it would be no problem to correct that - basically he said "old school" way - strap either end of chassis & jack it in between to 'pop' it back - sounded kinda like my back treatment at the chiropractor for my herniated disc 🤪

I decided not to discard the corner plate I made - I found with that in I can use the floor jack on the stock lift point without it distorting the floor, and I can move the seat belt anchor up & back, which is really needed with the Honda seats. I'll probably weld the perimeter after the body is pulled. stitches along the top edge at least.

7/16" belt anchor nut welded to backside of double wall

PXL_20211222_223621530.jpg


captive nut sits in existing dimple in inner sill

PXL_20211222_223627626.jpg

PXL_20211222_223359482.jpg
 

lookforjoe

True Classic
I am sure he hemmed and hawed because of the risk of possible opening of other joints or causing one of your glued seams to open up. Forcing the body to move always has risks as your off-road adventure demonstrated.

I hope it works out, the gap in your last pic looks very good. I would show that to your body guys as the point under there seems to be the rotation point.

Car finally went to the body shop yesterday for it's chiropractic reset 🤪

They are also painting the Dallara wing (finally, I dropped that off months ago)

Pics will follow
 

Longitudinal

True Classic
Argh... disappointing. I really would like to figure out a way to make the stock mid-80's dash stuff work with the K20 bits.

Sorry for the necropost...

I believe you could achieve that goal with some ingenuity. Consider this product: https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/418...I7qzC6Jjp9wIVErfICh2q5w0nEAQYASABEgLS7_D_BwE#

It's probably not an exact solution for you, but the point is that there are devices out there that drive mechanical speedometers. The one I linked uses GPS, but there are others that take a VSS signal and convert it to a mechanical output. You seem like a clever fellow. I'm pretty sure you could do it.
 

Pete Whitstone

True Classic
Sorry for the necropost...

I believe you could achieve that goal with some ingenuity. Consider this product: https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/418...I7qzC6Jjp9wIVErfICh2q5w0nEAQYASABEgLS7_D_BwE#

It's probably not an exact solution for you, but the point is that there are devices out there that drive mechanical speedometers. The one I linked uses GPS, but there are others that take a VSS signal and convert it to a mechanical output. You seem like a clever fellow. I'm pretty sure you could do it.

Following. I am considering something like this on my 037 project.
 
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