Hussein, don't feel bad about the locked transmission, it has happened to me too many years ago, but on a John Deere Crawler, I reversed the way 3/4 gear was on the lay shaft. Three days of labor to flip the gear and get it all back together.Problems.
Can't see anything wrong here, but trans/diff is locked So, drivetrain will have to come out again so I can dismantle this & figure out WTF I did wrong here.
I didn't take many pics back when I did the LSD install in May. Don't know what I put togther wrong, but it is definitely not right.
This is one of the only dismantle pics I took, none of the assembly that would show the shift forks, etc
Right axle is too short by 2.5".
Thankfully I didn't throw out the K24 intermediate axle. I guess the early transaxle has a different casing offset, but I honestly don't see how, as the MWB mount is right there next to it.
With that in place, the axle fits OK, joint sits about 1/2 way in the cup
At full drop of my coilovers there is still play in the shaft cup, so the axle is not binding
CV is not touching strut tube, just looks like it.
Good news on another front, the slave bleeder is readily accessible with my larger opening
Had to elongate the torque mount plate holes to prevent it pushing back on the motor, which was removing what little clearance the slave had off the firewall. I must have welded the plate too high up I guess.
I think I'll leave the drivetrain in & finish the rear swaybar, wiring etc., before I drop it again to fix the transaxle issue.
I'm so frustrated with myself for not checking the diff operation BEFORE putting it all back together, and for then installing it all without still checking it. I had to step away from it & so I cleaned up the garage & mowed the yard for the last time this year.
Can you provide a source (apologies if already posted) for the engine compartment firewall insulation with the "waffle iron" square grid embossment? In the pix it's almost a dead ringer for the OEM insulation!
I'll check the box, it's in the basement. Pretty sure it's a Dynaliner Hood insulation, I'll get the product # for you.
Thank you Tony. I just need to step back from the car to gain acceptanceHussein, don't feel bad about the locked transmission, it has happened to me too many years ago, but on a John Deere Crawler, I reversed the way 3/4 gear was on the lay shaft. Three days of labor to flip the gear and get it all back together.
Grimsby Ontario Canada.
This is the product, Dan.Can you provide a source (apologies if already posted) for the engine compartment firewall insulation with the "waffle iron" square grid embossment? In the pix it's almost a dead ringer for the OEM insulation!
Thanks for the info, Hussein....in the pix it looks so much like the original pattern--how about in-person?This is the product, Dan.
Dynamat 11905 Hoodliner 32" x 54" x 3/4" Thick Self-Adhesive Sound Deadener
I wasn't going to bother, however it was suggested that it is a good idea with the additional weight & torque of the new drivetrain.I guess it depends on how the total chassis is set up but on my car, I put a 7/8" Addco bar on the front to control roll and tame the oversteer and figured a rear bar would bring back oversteer that I did not need.
I have the Volvo 960 front bar on my X1/9, 22mm. Hopefully the two will play nicely, it certainly handled really well with the Volvo bar in front.Yes, I could see where the dynamics of your car would be quite a bit different than a stock X. Also, 15mm is not exactly huge as you pointed out. I don't remember the thickness of my T5R front bar (thickest one for an 850) but with the stock ride height it was too stiff and caused inner wheel lift. After dropping the ride height about 1.5", it was just about right. The later 850Rs went to a smaller front bar to mitigate the problem since they could not mess with the ride height without moving the bumpers up.