Performing Honda K24a3/AST5 6spd Conversion

So, I tried jacking the car in a couple spots - it actually doesn't open up more than .060" over closed gap on either side.

.090" when jacked by the plate intended for the factory jack - that is the gap value I want when on the floor. I spoke to the bodyshop today - I'm going to take the metal trunk lid & Dallara wing to them on Wednesday for paint - and asked him about putting it on a frame machine to open it up an 3/16- 1/8" on the left. He hummed & haaa'd a bit, then said sure, we could work that out. Sounds like the best plan to me, thanks for suggesting it. I honestly thought no bodyshop would want to deal with it, so it didn't occur to even ask.

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So, I tried jacking the car in a couple spots - it actually doesn't open up more than .060" over closed gap on either side.

.090" when jacked by the plate intended for the factory jack - this is the gap I want when on the floor. I spoke to the bodyshop today - I'm going to take the metal trunk lid & Dallara wing to them on Wednesday for paint - and asked him about putting it on a frame machine to open it up an 1/8" on the left. He hummed & haaa'd a bit, then said sure, we could work that out. Sounds like the best plan to me, thanks for suggesting it. I honestly thought no bodyshop would want to deal with it, so it didn't occur to even ask.

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I am sure he hemmed and hawed because of the risk of possible opening of other joints or causing one of your glued seams to open up. Forcing the body to move always has risks as your off-road adventure demonstrated.

I hope it works out, the gap in your last pic looks very good. I would show that to your body guys as the point under there seems to be the rotation point.
 
I am sure he hemmed and hawed because of the risk of possible opening of other joints or causing one of your glued seams to open up. Forcing the body to move always has risks as your off-road adventure demonstrated.

I hope it works out, the gap in your last pic looks very good. I would show that to your body guys as the point under there seems to be the rotation point.

I took the spoiler there yesterday, and showed him the photo of it jacked to get the gap. He said it would be no problem to correct that - basically he said "old school" way - strap either end of chassis & jack it in between to 'pop' it back - sounded kinda like my back treatment at the chiropractor for my herniated disc 🤪

I decided not to discard the corner plate I made - I found with that in I can use the floor jack on the stock lift point without it distorting the floor, and I can move the seat belt anchor up & back, which is really needed with the Honda seats. I'll probably weld the perimeter after the body is pulled. stitches along the top edge at least.

7/16" belt anchor nut welded to backside of double wall

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captive nut sits in existing dimple in inner sill

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Sounds like a reasonable plan. Nothing wrong with a little more weight when you have 200hp :)
 
I am sure he hemmed and hawed because of the risk of possible opening of other joints or causing one of your glued seams to open up. Forcing the body to move always has risks as your off-road adventure demonstrated.

I hope it works out, the gap in your last pic looks very good. I would show that to your body guys as the point under there seems to be the rotation point.

Car finally went to the body shop yesterday for it's chiropractic reset 🤪

They are also painting the Dallara wing (finally, I dropped that off months ago)

Pics will follow
 
Argh... disappointing. I really would like to figure out a way to make the stock mid-80's dash stuff work with the K20 bits.

Sorry for the necropost...

I believe you could achieve that goal with some ingenuity. Consider this product: https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/418...I7qzC6Jjp9wIVErfICh2q5w0nEAQYASABEgLS7_D_BwE#

It's probably not an exact solution for you, but the point is that there are devices out there that drive mechanical speedometers. The one I linked uses GPS, but there are others that take a VSS signal and convert it to a mechanical output. You seem like a clever fellow. I'm pretty sure you could do it.
 
Sorry for the necropost...

I believe you could achieve that goal with some ingenuity. Consider this product: https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/418...I7qzC6Jjp9wIVErfICh2q5w0nEAQYASABEgLS7_D_BwE#

It's probably not an exact solution for you, but the point is that there are devices out there that drive mechanical speedometers. The one I linked uses GPS, but there are others that take a VSS signal and convert it to a mechanical output. You seem like a clever fellow. I'm pretty sure you could do it.

Following. I am considering something like this on my 037 project.
 
New problem.

The car died on the worst possible place, the Palisades Interstate Parkway, which is only two narrow lanes, no shoulders & restricted access, so no AAA towing. I had no choice but to stay on the roadway. Thankfully, the State Troopers came quickly & blocked off the lane I was stuck in, so I didn't get nailed by one of the cars trying to cut the line building in the right lane.

Once I got it home, I put the scanner on it & got this:
Screenshot_20220706-133555.png

I replaced the exhaust cam sensor, no start, so I replaced the crank sensor, (I had spares of all three) no start. Tach doesn't move, so no signal clearly. I did that first because it only took 10 minutes.

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ECU still communicates with the Tuner software, so I don't think the ECU is cooked. Tomorrow I'll have to run through the diagnostic.


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New problem.

The car died on the worst possible place, the Palisades Interstate Parkway, which is only two narrow lanes, no shoulders & restricted access, so no AAA towing. I had no choice but to stay on the roadway. Thankfully, the State Troopers came quickly & blocked off the lane I was stuck in, so I didn't get nailed by one of the cars trying to cut the line building in the right lane.

Once I got it home, I put the scanner on it & got this:

I replaced the exhaust cam sensor, no start, so I replaced the crank sensor, (I had spares of all three) no start. Tach doesn't move, so no signal clearly. I did that first because it only took 10 minutes.

ECU still communicates with the Tuner software, so I don't think the ECU is cooked. Tomorrow I'll have to run through the diagnostic.

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No! Say it isn't so.... I'm familiar with your area on the Palisades, not a good place to get stuck. How do the connectors themselves look? I've been in Volvo mode recently, replacing both cam cover gaskets on the B8444S, (32v quad cam, VVT, like 2 K-series engines stuffed together) that requires disassembling the top half of the engine. The heat in there is breaking down everything plastic, including the connectors. I had all 4 camshaft timing control valve connectors disintegrate internally, loosing connections with the pins inside the valve body connection pins. I eventually found these are a common connector body, used on KIA's and Toyota's coil packs and other sensors. Was able to replace just the bodies, and leave the original harness wires and pins in place as they were OK. Pics - New and old connector internals side by side, internal bits all broken off on the 4 old connectors, new ones in place, and engine overhead view.
 

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No! Say it isn't so.... I'm familiar with your area on the Palisades, not a good place to get stuck. How do the connectors themselves look? I've been in Volvo mode recently, replacing both cam cover gaskets on the B8444S, (32v quad cam, VVT, like 2 K-series engines stuffed together) that requires disassembling the top half of the engine. The heat in there is breaking down everything plastic, including the connectors. I had all 4 camshaft timing control valve connectors disintegrate internally, loosing connections with the pins inside the valve body connection pins. I eventually found these are a common connector body, used on KIA's and Toyota's coil packs and other sensors. Was able to replace just the bodies, and leave the original harness wires and pins in place as they were OK. Pics - New and old connector internals side by side, internal bits all broken off on the 4 old connectors, new ones in place, and engine overhead view.

Ugh, doesn't look like fun at all. Good job figuring out the issue with the connectors! I haven't seen ones disintegrate like that inside.
 
Checked voltages and ground circuits at both CMP sensors, and the CRP sensor. Have 12v input and 5v signal voltage for all three. Ground circuit also good. Still no proper rpm/tach pulse when cranking.

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After that, I had to assume it's the ECU, as according to the fault tracing, the engine would still run if it were just the cam.angle sensor. Don't understand why there is no codes besides the cam sensor though. I took the time to reset the ECU, unlock from KTuner, swap circuit board over, then lock the 'new' ECU & reflash with my tune. Still doesn't start, so now I have to get all new sensors to try, even though I don't see all my spares being defective...

EDIT - when I removed the ECU I found that the ECU fan runs continuously, with the key off... when I wired the relay power, I ran it to battery terminal in the trunk, instead of to switched power. That would contribute to my battery draining, if it's not the main cause. I'll rewire it to switched power. EDIT - looking back in the thread, I remarked on that at time of install - I guess I forgot to go back & correct it.
 
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