Hey Brett
Thanks for the vote of confidence. I try to look presentably for photo-ops but that particular day it was near 100F and the heat zapped all the life out of me so that's why I look beat down.
I meant to tell you, I used the wrong grease that goes between the control module and mounting pad. I went to O'Relieys asking for it specifically and the "D.A." who was working there told me di-electric grease was the same thing. I argued with him explaining it wasn't the same stuff but he insisted it was the same. So I asked an electronic guy I work with about it and he said it wasn't the same thing.
The nearest Radio Shack was 10 miles on the other end of town so I didn't have time to pick up any.
That module really doesn't get that hot but it's probably a good idea to apply the correct heat sink compound.
Go to Radio Shack and buy their "white" ceramic heat sink compound. About $7.00 for a tiny tube. The more expensive stuff is for thermocouples like microprocessors and is overkill for this application but will work.
By the way, if that Bosch control module craps out on you, you can easily substitute a $20 4 pin GM HEI module. The same module used on Fiat 124 Spiders with Marelli electronic distributors.
If they need a vehicle to go by just tell them you have a 1976 454 big block pickup truck. That's what I always use.
As you know I'm using the 5 pin version to act as a 10 degree boost retard on my Yugo turbo. I'll email you my hand written schematic, with your skills, if you care to make me a diagram that looks professional.
Folks, here is what it looks like mounted on the car:
You can see there are only four (well five in my case) wires connected to it.
Red goes to + side of coil, Green goes to negative side and on the other side the green and brown wires goes to the pickup.
Note the ground wire that goes into the harness to the pickup is now connected to the pad with a ring terminal. I have no idea what the purpose of this ground wire is since the other end is not actually connected to anything. It just leads to no where. Maybe just wrapped around the other two wires to filter noise.
The polarities matter on the pickup wires but the car will either run or it won't so it's hard to screw that one up.
Also the tiny pin on the left side goes to a pressure switch which grounds the module at 1 PSI of boost which backs the timing off 10 degrees. Some have argued I need to spend $700 on an MSD system in order to do the same thing. The thing is, it's not their money. Brett offered me an MSD system but I actually turned it down because the HEI method is simple, takes up less room and works just as well.
More photos:
http://s222.photobucket.com/albums/dd148/turbofiat/GM 5 PIN HEI module/
Radio Shack heat sink compound.
