Please Advise X19 1300 build

Found a pic.

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And don't forget to remove the oil passages plugs on the crankshaft and clean them out. You'll be surprised how much junk you'll find in there too.
 
If you're still interested in a 1500. From a 80 x1/9 I have one I pull to do a Honda K20 swap. I am in Minnesota in the Twin cities area. Let me know if you are interested. I have a 5 speed transmission also.
 
I recommend popping that oil pump pickup screen off.
There was all kinds of nastiness on the inside of mine.
I did end up popping the screen off. Not as bad as I was expecting. Looks like the screen caught most of the rtv. Cleaned it out and will be able to reuse.
 
Does anyone know what this sensor is? It is on the cylinder head and has never been connected to anything. Was curious what it is for.
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It looks like the vacuum valve used to disable vacuum retard for the ignition when the engine is cold. If so, there has at some point been a vacuum hose from one port of this valve to the vacuum retard capsule on the distributor, and another hose from the other port of the valve and to a vacuum port on the carburetor. Look up Fiat part number 4323729.
 
There is also a time delay valve between between the thermo valve in the photo and the vacuum diaphragm on the distributor. The cheap trick in the 70s was to reverse the time delay valve to disable the vacuum retard as it is a one way valve.
 
Back at it. I have the block back from the machine shop and have began the reassembly process. I do have a couple of questions.

1: do both the groves on the thrust rings face the journal (inwards) or away?
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2: I am confused on how the main bearing caps should go. I tried following the service manual, the center cap (3 notches) cab only go in the center otherwise gallies and the bearing holes do not line up. Either way they end up being out of order. I place them where originally were prior to taking them off, but it looks to be wrong bases on the manual.
 
I know nothing about this, but Bernice (Rupunzell) posted a note on bearing cap numbering here. There is a service letter from 19JUN1980 (see attached) with a correction to the manual regarding main bearing cap locations, but this confuses me; All the manuals I have checked, including an original Linea Rossa manual for the late Bertone cars (revised 1991, 11 years after the service letter was published) show middle and rear caps reversed compared with the drawing in the service letter. Did they never get around to updating the manual?

Also have a look at this thread and this thread (but disregard the first photo in that thread, it appears to have the caps in the wrong order).
 

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The grooved side of the thrust bearings goes against the face of the crankshaft - the idea is that those grooves deliver oil to the friction surface between crank and bearing.

Many editions of the service manuals are wrong, the service letter posted by @ng_randolph above is correct. But just to be sure, compare the service letter with the way the caps/bearings were when you opened up the motor. They should agree. Then double check that the bearing shells are placed to allow proper oil flow - no blocked openings, there's a groove wherever needed to deliver oil to the passages drilled in the crankshaft.

Chances are it will all make sense when you see how it goes together, but if not.... take photos and ask again here. Be aware that most of my experience is with the 1300 not the 1500 so I may have overlooked something that's fifferent between the two.
 
Anybody have any cool tricks to get the the piston pin clips in to their seat. I have struggled and am getting super frustrated!!! 😭😭
 
Anybody have any cool tricks to get the the piston pin clips in to their seat. I have struggled and am getting super frustrated!!! 😭😭
take a length of ordinary white plastic pvc plumbing pipe about three or four inches long. Thin the walls at one end at a 45 degree angle so that the end can just barely be poked into the piston pin well.

Now start the clip inside the pipe by pushing it straight into the pipe, then rotate it so that it lies properly crosswise. End of pipe into piston pin well, push the clip down through the pipe with a wrist pin, and you have the clip in place. Use the wrist pin again to seat it in its groove.

30 seconds per clip max
 
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take a length of ordinary white plastic pvc plumbing pipe about three or four inches long. Thin the walls at one end at a 45 degree angle so that the end can just barely be poked into the piston pin well.

Now start the clip inside the pipe by pushing it straight into the pipe, then rotate it so that it lies properly crosswise. End of pipe into piston pin well, push the clip down through the pipe with a wrist pin, and you have the clip in place. Use the wrist pin again to seat it in its groove.

30 seconds per clip max
Genius Eric
 
Summit racing (and likely many others) will sell a tool that’s basically the same concept. I never tried it because making my own was cheaper (like free - I already had the scrap pvc), more fun, and I didn’t want to wait on shipment.
 
Are the auxiliary pulleys for the 1300 and 1500 interchangable? Mine has a chipped tooth and I have a spare one from a 1500.
 
Are the auxiliary pulleys for the 1300 and 1500 interchangable? Mine has a chipped tooth and I have a spare one from a 1500.
You mean the aux shaft sprocket driven by the timing belt, that turn the distributor in concert with the camshaft? Yes, same between 1300 and 1500, and likewise for the sprocket on the crankshaft. The cam sprockets are identical except for the position of the timing marks.
 
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