Pool of clean oil around head bolt ????

petex19

petex19

True Classic
Washing cleaning and detailing for the coming summer fun and I noticed a pool of clean oil non-contaminated around one of the head bolts whereas the other nine are perfectly dry as they should be. Pictures will follow as my daughter took my camera but it is the furthest one to the left on the back side of the motor meaning the intake manifold side and the one closest to the drivers side of the car.

My plan was a camshaft change in the fall and I was planning on removing the entire head so I could find true TDC so a head gasket change is in the future but will the engine make it until fall ? What would cause oil to come through the head bolt ?

'PeteX1/9
 
There's no high pressure oil passage in that area of the head gasket. For that reason I'd think It likely leaked from the cam box gasket.

By the way, you don't need to remove the head to find exact TDC, you can use a tool called a TDC locator or make your own out of welding a bolt on a spark plug. Using a degree wheel you turn one way till it hits, then the other, then take the middle as your center.
 
I had the same symptom...

But it was not coming up through the head bolt, it was dripping down from the head extension (aka "cam tower") gasket.

Pete
 
Pete, I agree with Pete

It is probably the cam tower leaking. It has an incredibly thin paper gasket between it and the head. I had a similar leak on the back corner near the cam wheel. Here is what I found when I removed the cam tower. Note the split in the gasket right above the bolt. :(




This got to the point that it would smoke like crazy as the oil burned off the block/manifold area. Clean off what is there and you may be able to determine just how bad the leak is. I din't think you will do any damage by delaying the repair, abs BikesandCars said, it isn't a pressure area. It is just a matter of how much oily smoking you can put up with.
 
It's a relief to hear that it's probably not my head gasket :clap:

I cleaned up the pool of oil and checked the cam box bolts for tightness and I'll keep an eye on it.

Thanks to all for the quick replies. :)
 
I'd love to learn more about True TDC locating procedures. Has anything been written in the best of section, I'll have to search.

'PeteX1/9


P.S I found this on Ebay meant for a motorcycle I believe but would it work to find true TDC.



My confusion is how do you know if the prong part that sticks out is long enough to reach the piston top at TDC or not long enough??
 
I think those gaskets shrink over time, especially if they are dry. I've gotten one in a gasket set that was too shrunk to even put on.

regarding TDC: That's the tool I was thinking of.

As long as the thread on the spark plug matches (the prime concern) the rod looks plenty long enough. The x1/9 piston is relatively close to the end of that spark plug, so no problems getting the test plug to interfere.

It won't reach the piston at TDC, it will reach it before. Then you need to turn the engine the other way. TDC is exactly inbetween those points. I measured this previously by drilling and tapping 3 holes in the crank pulley for a degree wheel, but my wheel is too big to do this on the car (engine was on stand). This post deals mainly with cam degreeing but the crank TDC check is mentioned: http://xwebforums.com/forum/index.php?threads/13084/
 
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It looks to me...

bikesandcars said:
That's the tool I was thinking of.

As long as the thread on the spark plug matches (the prime concern) the rod looks plenty long enough. The x1/9 piston is relatively close to the end of that spark plug, so no problems getting the test plug to interfere.

It won't reach the piston at TDC, it will reach it before. Then you need to turn the engine the other way. TDC is exactly inbetween those points. I measured this previously by drilling and tapping 3 holes in the crank pulley for a degree wheel, but my wheel is too big to do this on the car (engine was on stand). This post deals mainly with cam degreeing but the crank TDC check is mentioned: http://xwebforums.com/forum/index.php?threads/13084/
Click to expand...

Like that tool is not a "hard stop", but rather that the pin in the middle can slide up and down with the piston, thus visually informing you of where TDC is. I'm assuming that's why it has the cotter pin at the top - to stop it from falling all the way in to the cylinder.

Much easier to use than the hard stop/degree wheel/rotate engine the wrong way method.

Pete
 
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soak the gasket in warm water

I was worried about working with that gasket too. It didn't seem to fit correctly at all. I was advised to soak the paper gasket in warm water before applying it. The added flexibility makes it easier to work into place and it stays put while you are putting the cam tower back on.
 
I just heard the theory mentioned that our engine leaks oil at the cam tower gasket because of the dogbone being mounted to the cam tower!
Makes a lot of sense, pretty much all of the reaction force of accelerating the car is transmitted through there.
It really isn't a great place to mount the dogbone. Apparently, later versions of the engine didn't mount the dogbone there anymore.

Also, thicker versions of the gasket are available, but will change you valve shim adjustment, you may need new (thicker) shims.
 
VERY good point there, Ulix!!!....

Ulix said:
......I just heard the theory mentioned that our engine leaks oil at the cam tower gasket because of the dogbone being mounted to the cam tower!......
Click to expand...

.....it does seem obvious that any torque reaction transferred thru the dogbone will put considerable stress onto the cam tower + securing bolts! Helluva good point there! :clap:
Seems the sensible thing to do is check the cam tower bolts for tightness every now and again!

cheers, Ian - NZ
 
petex19 said:
I'd love to learn more about True TDC locating procedures. Has anything been written in the best of section, I'll have to search.

'PeteX1/9


P.S I found this on Ebay meant for a motorcycle I believe but would it work to find true TDC.



My confusion is how do you know if the prong part that sticks out is long enough to reach the piston top at TDC or not long enough??
Click to expand...
It would be nice if the outside end had a scale on it so you could see when and where it stopped coming "up".
 
You could always...

jvandyke said:
It would be nice if the outside end had a scale on it so you could see when and where it stopped coming "up".
Click to expand...

put a dial indicator on the end, mounted on a magnetic or fixed base. That's how it's usually done I think. Very accurate that way.

Pete
 
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