Preparing For Dallara Body Kit

Adding some more progress pics while the site is back up ;) [EDIT - all coilover pics lost]

POR15 on the upper tube sections

Bicknell sleeves with inserts to locate them snugly on the tapered tubes

Ready to install X1/9 collars and cut about 7/16 off the base (marker line), where the insert seat is located, then re weld the base & weld the collars in place.

2nd set of VW struts enroute from CA.
 
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Welded the cut base cups (removed 7/16-1/2" off the bottom of the tube), and welded the front X1/9 collars 6 7/8" from base of tube to top lip of collar, based on x1900's specifications.

Used my TIG. Still working on weld technique, but it's sound if not pretty. Fronts:

Weather was nice today, so I took the X1/9 to work :)

...and got hit by a large stone in the windshield - put a nice big star in it :blackeye:
 
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Prepping strut casings for the rear

remove seat

remove lower retaining collar

stock insert seat base

bases cut & re-welded in place

got the appropriate measurement for the rear collar offset - 3 5/16" (thanks Doug!), so that's the next step.
 
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Got the rear tubes all set up - I welded a collar for the sleeve, to give me maximum height adjustment if i do use the 8" length coils. I used two of the old gland nuts to make the collars.

Bilsteins B8's (34-184530) here

Shoulder 24mm - shaft 33mm. 14mm threaded end. Shock has 1" or so less travel than standard Boge I have for comparison.

painted & coil sleeves added
 
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Working on the top spring perches.

Fronts have been cut off flush, and will have the shown collar welded, it is an interference fit in the Volvo/Saab strut bearing, I cut a Koyo outer bearing race in half to use

rears have been cut down & have a sleeve that is an interference fit in the spring. Used a holesaw per rx1900's directions to remove the inner seat of the perch.

83-A2-F396-8931-435-E-B0-CF-374-F153701-FC.jpg


I'm going to cut off the outer spring seat lip previously utilized for the stock springs, it is unnecessary.
 
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But I realize it is just your normal (awesome) standard! :)

Thank you :)

Been working more on the top mounts. Doug has pointed out I may have issues based on the available thread length/shoulder. I'll have to work on that. (See post #53)

Pivot bearing seat welded

The front will need to sit through the perch like this

to provide sufficient thread depth for the lock nut

which is about 1/2" to reach the nylock portion

(I flipped over the rear cone to check, I don't have an extra outer cone washer)

I could also bore more of a step shoulder inside the aluminum cone to allow the insert to sit higher, but that would negatively impact the boot retention since that ridge is what locates the boot.


Not sure I want to remove too much, I already plan on having a steel washer inset into the cone to make sure there is no load on the cone itself.

In the rear, 8" spring would situate like this;

10" spring would be thus:

Rear cone is 2mm too small for the Bilstein to seat properly, so I need to flatten it from the inside to make sure it's sitting flat when compressed. EDIT: added a 1/8" hardened washer to offset the contour.
 
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Doug's recommended Porche rack boots came (996 347 191 04). TRW brand were $13 a pair, wholesale. Snug fit over gland nut. Just had to cut the tip off the boot, that would normally sleeve the tie rod

Full compression

Since I have no external bump stops with the Bilsteins, it looks like no additional mod to the boot is necessary.

Boot is tapered, so fits inside the rear sleeve (cut off the visible 1/2" perch inner collar after this pic

More work on the mounts - machined cones to accept insert

Braised seat washer to perch (fronts)

Chopped all outer spring perches off
 
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Alternate top plate to allow the strut insert to pass further through the top mount - it's from a Volvo strut mount

In this position, the strut shoulder is as far through the perch as is possible.

I chamfered the edge of the cone, so it fits flush in the plate

The underside of the plate has a ridge that will center the pivot bearing

QA1 2.5" ID - 140/250 10" progressive springs ( QA1-10-140-250 from Summit Racing )
 
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Worked an another alternative front top mount, that will allow greater insertion through the top mount. I used part of the VW upper mount. Have to weld the pieces together. EDIT: I used this version - required a 1/4" spacer on top of the upper cone washer due to the larger Bilstein strut jam nut. Washer had to be drilled out to fit over the strut shoulder.

washer on top is to keep compression of top mount rubber close to stock

5/04 Welded
 
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Tires are finally here!!!

BFG 225/45x15, 205x50x15

I like the way they look, at least :)

Now I can get them mounted, and figure out spacers. Then I can test fit my Coilovers and then, get ready to cut the old sheet metal off
 
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As winter is coming to a close (hopefully) I'm getting back into thinking about the work involved here. Also, been sick for a week so I'm getting stir crazy.

Coilovers are all ready to go in, and I have detailed instructions on setting them up properly, thanks to Doug :)

My plan is to cut the sheet metal & then get the coilovers in, get the new wheels & tires on, tack a front & rear panel in place & figure out the spacer requirements ASAP, so those can be in production while I move on with body work.
 
Coilovers are all ready to go in, and I have detailed instructions on setting them up properly, thanks to Doug :)

My plan is to cut the sheet metal & then get the coilovers in, get the new wheels & tires on, tack a front & rear panel in place & figure out the spacer requirements ASAP, so those can be in production while I move on with body work.[/QUOTE]

Hi Hussein. If you got the snowstorm that we got last night, then winter is still not quite over...

But...I would urge you to change your plans a little bit. Would be best to fit your new coilovers FIRST, before starting to cut away the sheet metal. They will fit just fine with your current wheels and tires. And it will be much easier to play with ride heights with the fenders still in place as a good reference point for measuring. Play with the coilovers a bit and drive around until you are happy with the suspension set-up. Then you can fit your new wheels and tires and get chopping....

Good luck. Doug
 
MWB FAZA repro lid

Finally starting on the body now that it is running nicely on the LH2.4 conversion, with the reduced (10.3:1) compression.

Cut the trunk lid up to get the inner webbing for the hinges and latch. EDIT: my inner frame was rotted along the entire rear lip & along the sides, hence the triangular cut...

X19_0168a.jpg


stripped it, & painted the underside except where the fusor epoxy needs to adhere. Bonded to MWB-supplied fibreglass lid

X19_0168.jpg


have to add a lip on the bottom to cover the trunk seal - the fibreglass lid ends short.

X19_0168b-2.jpg


Using aluminum angle stock. Will bond & rivet to aluminum reinforcement I added to inside of rear edge.

X19_0168c.jpg


and, needs a strip to allow the trunk seal to seat along the back edge. I'll work on that tomorrow

X19_0168b.jpg
 
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Thank you :)

Worked some more on the trunk lid. Added strips for the trunk seal to mate with. More futzing required

Dallara_Rear00026.jpg


Removed and filled the Faza / Forza

DallaraRear00027.jpg


Seam split where the aluminum reinforcement is bonded when I shut the lid (hard) - had to re rivet where I had filled. Will need to sand it all back & fill the gap.

Need to figure out a cleaner rear bumper (maybe short outriggers?) and possibly alter the recess in the rear quarters where the stock tails used to end - way to busy now. Once the Dallara panels are hung, I can get a better sense of how to proceed with those.
Local car show Thursday - not sure if I'll start chopping off the fenders before then or wait till Friday...
 
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dallara

what I did on mine, long gone now:censored:, got towed away from a friends after he moved without telling me so I could come and get it.
I cut the fenders and quarters from the wheel arc to the top and massaged them to the panels for support. PITA, but strong. I then used "fusor" and self tapping screws to hold them together until it set up. screws out, a layer of fiber glass underneath, some mud in the holes, and ready for primer.
mikemo
 
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