Preparing For Dallara Body Kit

on the height, how did you decide? I was stuck between having it slightly higher than the targa line to get fresh air and having it be the same height so I knew I wouldnt accidently tear it off. I went with the same height. also I had drilled 4-5 holes to angle the wing like I wanted. could have slotted it, but holes would hold that position better. Lastly, I would like to know how your bolt on works. I originally had that same configuration, 2 bolts per, but ended up with it not being steady at speed so I molded the pedestal in

Odie
 
autox19 said:
on the height, how did you decide? I was stuck between having it slightly higher than the targa line to get fresh air and having it be the same height so I knew I wouldn't accidently tear it off. I went with the same height. also I had drilled 4-5 holes to angle the wing like I wanted. could have slotted it, but holes would hold that position better. Lastly, I would like to know how your bolt on works. I originally had that same configuration, 2 bolts per, but ended up with it not being steady at speed so I molded the pedestal in

Odie
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Hello Odie

George only provided the one set of holes, and I didn't feel like drilling a set, so the height is simply what he set it to in his design, adjusted by slotting and then raising the rear to set the foils to a slight forward incline. I opted to raise the rear rather than drop the front edge. I guess it's pretty much level with the targa top.

George put 2 studs per standoff/upright. There is 'jiggle/flex' in the uprights when I corner or lane change over uneven roadway, otherwise I haven't observed any movement. I have 1/8" closed cell foam between the lid & the uprights, so I do need to recheck the tension since it's now had a couple days to compress.

With the spoiler/foil assembly, I don't have to tighten the assembly much to stop any tilt of it's own accord. Those bolts are M10 (I think, 14mm head lock nuts), with fender washers to spread clamping force.
 
lookforjoe said:
Hello Odie

George only provided the one set of holes, and I didn't feel like drilling a set, so the height is simply what he set it to in his design, adjusted by slotting and then raising the rear to set the foils to a slight forward incline. I opted to raise the rear rather than drop the front edge. I guess it's pretty much level with the targa top.

George put 2 studs per standoff/upright. There is 'jiggle/flex' in the uprights when I corner or lane change over uneven roadway, otherwise I haven't observed any movement. I have 1/8" closed cell foam between the lid & the uprights, so I do need to recheck the tension since it's now had a couple days to compress.

With the spoiler/foil assembly, I don't have to tighten the assembly much to stop any tilt of it's own accord. Those bolts are M10 (I think, 14mm head lock nuts), with fender washers to spread clamping force.
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Yeah the jiggle is what got me. I have epdm 1/16 inch under mine when it was bolted.
I never tried the slots. Would have probably worked. I will never change it anyway lol.
Height. Now that I am looking at it under cover it looks level. The other views made it look taller. Each time I see mine under cover it reminds me of a porsche 917 with the tail being the same height as the cab :)
Looks awesome! Now I am thinking of switching to dallara. Naw. Too much work :)

Odie
 
autox19 said:
Yeah the jiggle is what got me. I have epdm 1/16 inch under mine when it was bolted.
I never tried the slots. Would have probably worked. I will never change it anyway lol.
Height. Now that I am looking at it under cover it looks level. The other views made it look taller. Each time I see mine under cover it reminds me of a porsche 917 with the tail being the same height as the cab :)
Looks awesome! Now I am thinking of switching to dallara. Naw. Too much work :)

Odie
Click to expand...

I considered using 1/16", but since the lid has a contour & the uprights do not, I felt the thinner foam would leave a gap. I may have to bond the uprights as I do not like the jiggle at all.
 
You probably need to remove some material from the stands to follow the contour of the lid to make it rigid. You can probably shave the stands without respraying them. My mistake was that I didn't have the lid on the car when doing this, and after mounting it didn't fit as the lid had flexed a little bit when off the car. Got it right on second try with a lot more work involved than expected. But with a metal lid it should be easier.
How does your lid look inside? I did a lot of reinforcements on mine. The wing will cause a lot of stress even with little down force so make sure it is rigid and robust.
IMG_20220602_104703.jpg

BTW, the height of the wing has been discussed as well. I put my wing 1" lower than the roof to meet Swedish racing regulations. -It sits in line with the car w/o the roof. It still does a good job because of its width and shape. Would be interesting to know the height of an original Dallara wing.
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Bjorn Nilson said:
You probably need to remove some material from the stands to follow the contour of the lid to make it rigid. You can probably shave the stands without respraying them. My mistake was that I didn't have the lid on the car when doing this, and after mounting it didn't fit as the lid had flexed a little bit when off the car. Got it right on second try with a lot more work involved than expected. But with a metal lid it should be easier.
How does your lid look inside? I did a lot of reinforcements on mine. The wing will cause a lot of stress even with little down force so make sure it is rigid and robust.

BTW, the height of the wing has been discussed as well. I put my wing 1" lower than the roof to meet Swedish racing regulations. -It sits in line with the car w/o the roof. It still does a good job because of its width and shape. Would be interesting to know the height of an original Dallara wing.
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The standoffs are made as a 2-part shell, with inner reinforcement at the base & top for mounting. No practical way to shave the base. I'll live with it for now, esp. since I just had everything painted. I may strip & use the 2-part epoxy (Lord Fusor 208B) that I've used for all mixed substrate bonding, but not until I'm prepared to mess up the nice paint job. So, likely not for several years.

The lid itself has sleeves with flats welded to the inner frame, since the bolts pass through the non-flat area. George (the fabricator) did not specify any additional reinforcement to prevent damage/distortion of the metal lid, he only strongly recommended that a steel lid be used over fibreglass.

The center wing is the height of the roof, not the targa lid as I may have previously stated. The foils sit above the roofline.
 
lettering came - I used the 12" version. I ended up with bubbles in some I couldn't squeegee out, so I will have to redo at some point. With the narrow / small lettering, one cannot press too hard as it just deforms the letter, rather than remove the bubble.

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:( - this side is much worse than the other - at least it's the passenger so I don't have to get annoyed everytime I approach the car :)

EDIT - the bubbles worked themselves out - the vinyl they use is like the wrap vinyl, it has micro holes so it levels over time.
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You might be able to eliminate a lot of those air bubbles using a needle or pin & a plastic or rubber squeegee or spatula. The smaller/finer the tip, the better. Available in small packs at most craft or sewing/fabric stores.
 
A vexing issue with the new wing is the increased body length - it will barely fit in the garage now. I have to park it with the trunk lid elevated. Spent a bunch of time reorganizing the garage, I still have too much stuff for the size of the garage.

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EDIT - easier to park reversed in

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Finished the lexan covers, wanted to do something fun before I worked on the AWD filter leak..

fitted the angle brackets first, then marked & drilled the lexan
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both in
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overall pics of the car to wrap this up

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I am thinking about different wheels - I'd kinda like to not have chrome. I found some other Rota wheels, same spec - 15x8, 67.1 bore, 4x100. Only bronze or flat black though..

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these have a deeper dish, and 15x8, 15x9 set - but have the dual sets of mount holes, I don't care for so much

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lookforjoe said:
Finished the lexan covers, wanted to do something fun before I worked on the AWD filter leak..

fitted the angle brackets first, then marked & drilled the lexan
View attachment 66190

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both in
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overall pics of the car to wrap this up

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View attachment 66196


I am thinking about different wheels - I'd kinda like to not have chrome. I found some other Rota wheels, same spec - 15x8, 67.1 bore, 4x100. Only bronze or flat black though..

View attachment 66197

View attachment 66198

these have a deeper dish, and 15x8, 15x9 set - but have the dual sets of mount holes, I don't care for so much

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View attachment 66200
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The ones with 4 spokes are more period appropriate.
 
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