Preparing For Dallara Body Kit

I'm late with the bad news... Most important your are Ok.
I know you have all the motivation to cross this bad situation and put back that beautiful X on the road.
We are with you Hussien.

Yves
 
Wow, I'm sure you must be gutted. I feel for you. :(:mad:

As for the oil loss, I'm with Karl - almost no chance of engine damage resulting from it. It is very surprising how long an engine can continue to run with the COMPLETE loss of all oil, and suffer no damage. The oil film on the bearings gives a lot of protection for longer than we could imagine. They used to have "engine blow" contests at shows; drain all the oil out, run it at WOT with no load, and clock how long before it gives. The winner is whomever guessed the correct time - usually several minutes to half an hour depending on the initial condition of the engine.

Your very unfortunate experience echos a fear I'm currently having for one of my X projects. In an effort to try and save time and effort I purchased a fiberglass front air dam for the car. Decades of experience tells me to never use a fiberglass front spoiler of any type. So I know it will only be a matter of time before mine gets damaged also. Sadly the one I bought was horrible quality so it ended up taking me as much time and effort as if I'd made my own from steel. That is something you might consider when the time comes to repair your damaged front dam - make one from sheet metal with a steel tube frame?

Hang in there buddy. ;)
 
Many thanks, guys!

Wow, I'm sure you must be gutted. I feel for you. :(:mad:

As for the oil loss, I'm with Karl - almost no chance of engine damage resulting from it. It is very surprising how long an engine can continue to run with the COMPLETE loss of all oil, and suffer no damage. The oil film on the bearings gives a lot of protection for longer than we could imagine. They used to have "engine blow" contests at shows; drain all the oil out, run it at WOT with no load, and clock how long before it gives. The winner is whomever guessed the correct time - usually several minutes to half an hour depending on the initial condition of the engine.

Your very unfortunate experience echos a fear I'm currently having for one of my X projects. In an effort to try and save time and effort I purchased a fiberglass front air dam for the car. Decades of experience tells me to never use a fiberglass front spoiler of any type. So I know it will only be a matter of time before mine gets damaged also. Sadly the one I bought was horrible quality so it ended up taking me as much time and effort as if I'd made my own from steel. That is something you might consider when the time comes to repair your damaged front dam - make one from sheet metal with a steel tube frame?

Hang in there buddy. ;)

I'm hoping that is the case - the VTEC can be damaged from oil starvation, and the cam journals when pressure drops to the head. I'm going to have to take the motor out anyway to do the oil pan, so since the HG (not OEM) is suspect regarding the coolant-in-exhaust - I'll pull the head again to check for signs of wear.

There is a whole host of additional damages to the undercarriage & subframe, etc. I'll just start a new thread.
 
I imagine by the time the car hit the post and lost the oil pan, you were already completely out of the throttle with the clutch in and brakes on. So the engine had no load and was only idling when the oil started leaking. And it would take a while to lose a significant amount of oil. So chances are there was still some oil pressure to the VVT and cam journals when you shut it off.
 
Hussein...

What Doc says about engine... and I tend to agree... Especially if you are running a synthetic or semi-synthetic oil.

A few years back I dropped my wife off at the Honda dealer to pick up our Pilot after a normal maintenance and recall issue. She drove it home about 10 miles and a few more the next day. On Sunday I loaded our 2 grand-kids in and all their junk and started to drive them home when I noticed an odd looking trouble light I don't ever recall seeing before.

When by bifocals finally made it out, I realized it was the oil light. I pulled over, pulled the dipstick and NOTHING. I looked under the car and the drain plug was in place along with a new filter. Hmmmmm?

I turned it around and drove it home... got in another car and on Monday called the dealer. They sent a wrecker and the driver asked me if the car ran. HA! I said its got no oil but its been running for two days now and about 20 miles, A/C on and all. Might as well drive it up onto the truck!

The service manager called later, they dropped the pan and inspected the bearings and found NOTHING wrong. His offer was a new engine or a complete end to end warranty for another 36K miles.

I said I dunno if I can trust you guys to install a new engine, so I'll take the warranty... and I also accepted a few other perks as well.

Bottom line, I still have my 2003 Pilot with 172K on it and it runs perfectly. I'm sure your VTEC will be fine as well!

Hope this TRUE story brings some joy into your day!
 
So sorry for your loss. I kept up with all your posts over the years as you built previous versions of the car and this final one. I've seen how much time and thought you've put into this. As said previously, if anyone can bring this back, you can. Best of luck.
 
Moved this from the striping thread...



Took the cover apart, and tried the excess honeycomb I had from the Grille install

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I think it will look better than the grid mesh.

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The only problem is I can't get the exact same mesh as this. Shame there wasn't enough left over to do this. The closest I can find is a little wider & deeper aperture, So I ordered that.

Mesh finally arrived - was supposed to be here 14 days ago - was shipped from about an hour drive away :( Not identical mesh to my grille, but couldn't locate that one. This one in 120x40cm goes for anywhere from $25 - $100 depending on how much the vendor is gouging. I got it fro $25 with free shipping, so can't complain too much about the wait :D

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Next car show you enter I'll notify the judges of the all discrepancies in the grill mesh...

BTW, just what is the fan sitting over and cooling? Is the computer sitting there?
 
Next car show you enter I'll notify the judges of the all discrepancies in the grill mesh...

BTW, just what is the fan sitting over and cooling? Is the computer sitting there?

The fan is to suck the heat out of the engine bay at idle, works to get the heat soak out.
 
The fan is to suck the heat out of the engine bay at idle, works to get the heat soak out.

I guess I was really asking was what is the "hot spot" its sitting over... but as I think more and studying the photos, there may not be any other place in which you could have mounted it.

I just removed the "rain-tray" and left it all open... most like you, add some sort of screening but I felt it looked just great as it was. A few years back I was stuck in 405 traffic near Redondo Beach and we were crawling in 103 heat. I watched as my temp rose to about 198 and then the fans (2) cycled on and off between 191 to 198. I was impressed at how well it just naturally vented the heat up and out without any assistance.

Hope you can get the courage and passion to start your repairs soon.
 
Cut the mesh on both sides so that it sits inside of the retaining channel. Pressed it up against the curve whilst heating it.

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mesh sits tighter to outer skin now

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Reinstalled the inner skin

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